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Brown 244 GL

Hi petiww,

Fantastic attention to detail and progress!

From one 1980 244 Brown / Tan owner to another-- I appreciate the effort you are making to restore this car!

:volvo:

Best wishes,
volvie!

Thanks volvie! :)
I also made a promise for the PO that I'll show the "finished" car, so if everything goes well I'm going to make a trip to Szolnok in August, I hope.

How did you make this section? Do you have a tool to bend the metal to make the channel?

<a href="http://s113.photobucket.com/user/petiww/media/Volvo%20244%20GL/2016-03-25-1839_zpsygfkyyzq.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/petiww/Volvo%20244%20GL/2016-03-25-1839_zpsygfkyyzq.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2016-03-25-1839_zpsygfkyyzq.jpg"/></a>

Sadly no, I don't have the experience and tools to make a difficult patch like this. I cut apart a late model grey 244 that was parted out. Really saved a lot of time, and the outcome definitely worth it.

Great thread.

Nice work man, keep it up! :)

Thanks guys!
 
Spare wheel well is replaced now, outer arch cut away, started patching the inner arch. (no pic)


:cool:

Some "new" rust was revealed at the top of the windshield frame... And by "new" I mean I knew there was rust on the middle sheet there, I've seen it from the cabin with the headliner removed, but I hoped it was not serious. Until I saw this...


I was not happy but fixed it in an afternoon.




I had to leave some rust there, because I don't want to cut the surrounding metals to pieces. (that would be worse than this solution) It will be still good for 10-15 years I'm sure, with the amount of cavity wax i sprayed there right after I welded it together.
 
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Nice work. Wish you were my neighbor. :)

Well, if you can tolerate random grinding marathons for a few hours around 8pm... :rofl:

Anyway, finally closed the 'quarter-spare wheel well' gap,


so only some minor corrections needed here with a big hammer.

And also welded the sill endsheet on.


Only remaining heavy rustspot is the lip over the rear bumper that accepts the wide rubber 'seal'. I know thats going to be a PITA to do correctly, but it cant stop me now. :-P
 
And also welded the sill endsheet on.


Only remaining heavy rustspot is the lip over the rear bumper that accepts the wide rubber 'seal'. I know thats going to be a PITA to do correctly, but it cant stop me now. :-P[/QUOTE]

tumblr_nqimrctoCB1twym4ro4_400.gif
 
^ This I have to see. I dealing with the same thing.

I thought I'll be able to buy a proper klokkerholm replacement sheet for this section, but the parts store does not have it. :-(
So I'll just simply make an L profile replacement here. Early cars did not have that jump-in profile:

And even the beige donor car was repaired this way, and it is not too noticeable.

Not too much progress on the car, I focused on my exams, there are still two remaining. After that, I'll really dig myself into the car!
However I removed the BW55 nonsense yesterday, as well as the flexplate, bushing from the end of the crankshaft with the grease-hammer trick. It was kinda hard on a concrete floor, but it was out in a few hours.

Engine can come out now, and it will be rolled on two wheels to be able to paint its underside.

Also, good news, if everything goes well, another donor car will come in a few weeks with a working B230F+M47 combo. It was originally a Dutch car, so I'm not chasing dreams about a rustfree chassy... :lol:
This way I can leave together the beige donor car, and turn it into a race car one day! :-D

Also went on an awesome trip with a good buddy with his grey 244, what a blast it was!

It will get an M90 in place of the M45 this summer, and possibly a G80. :oogle:
 
Haven't done too much on the car this month, but July will be very busy.
New MOT check goal is Aug 17, and i don't think its impossible. If I don't mess around and actually work on it I think its achievable. :nod:

We went on a trip with the grey 244's owner to 12david34 to Slovakia to pick up his used Lesj?fors lowering springs, and he was kind enough to gave us these all for free:

Seized B21E, struts, springs, steelie set, other odds and ends. Thanks yo! :cheers:

My buddies took out the engine from the car, and I did the rustjob on the underseat sheetmetal box. Also did the finishing touches on the floor, like welding holes, grinding and such. So now all the floor needs is a good paint.
 
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Progress! :cool:

Hmm, tasty 2K Epoxy. :nod:


This means the underseat box could be welded back on the weekend, and I could finally roll it on two wheels to prep&paint the underbody, then paint the inside of the car. Wheelarches will be the last thing on the list, and bodywork is done! :omg:

Also, this cat...

She just simply doesnt care. :lol:
 
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Underseat box is welded in, and gearbox tunnel was painted from below. Quite satisfying to look at it. :nod:



Second donor car finally arrived, its quite rusty in some places, especially over the rear axle, but floors are surprisingly solid. Whole suspension and drivetrain (minus the healthy B230F) will be swapped into the brown before MOT, and i'll only need to change a few bushings.

I'll leave the beige car complete, and mess with it after the brown is complete and driveable.
 
Whole floor was sanded to bare metal and got primed. It will get a topcoat next week:


Left side floor and sill got epoxy primer too, little more work and undercoating can be sprayed on:

It was nice to have a friend helping me with this, a lot can be done with 4 hands. And sooo slow doing it alone...

Rear lip will get a 3mm thick sheet like this:

Inside is something like this:
 
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Lovely work!! Wish i had the nkowledge to do this lol, but i will need to learn it all when i will start to attack the 242 DL haha...

Cheers for inspiration :)

Adam
 
Lovely work!! Wish i had the nkowledge to do this lol, but i will need to learn it all when i will start to attack the 242 DL haha...

Cheers for inspiration :)

Adam

At least you have to do it on a 242, not on a boring 244... :lol:

However I'd do a couple things differently if i'd start the work now:
I would really disassemble the car to bare chassis, roll it on two wheels and steam pressure wash the whole underbody. That way you instantly see where it needs treatment, and you wont mess up the otherwise perfectly good factory paint with the torch&scraping.
Removing this black crap takes just too much time and energy, and I'm still messing with it.

Sound deadening removal with dry ice...

Well planned paint process from the beginning, and proper weldable primer at the joints. Sadly I tried out a different weld-thru paint on the right side of the car and right now I'm not sure about the longevity of that...

Sandblasting, but not the whole car, only where it is needed.

Proper spotweld drill.

I think if i'd start the process now I could finish this car in less than a year, and would be better in quality than now.
 
Yeah and I forgot, I wouldn't buy a car in that ****ty condition now. :lol: (ok, i'd do a 242 anyday)

Cheers :)
 
Update time!

Did not go as fast as i planned in August, being on holiday for a week then healing from a cold for a week just takes time... :)
But at least the whole underbody is finished now and only remaining bodywork is the right wheelarch.
Inside got a nice coat of chocolate coloured Alkyton:


Whole underbody looks nice like this:


Rear lip:


Left rear wheelarch turned out to be pretty good, already painted it with 2K epoxy. A painter buddy will come next week to properly bondo the crap out of the quarter panel.



Thats it for now. This fall i really want to finish this thing, fortunately I only have to go to university 2 days a week, so time is not a problem. :cool:
Also, my brothers Audi Coupe is finally painted, so I will post a few pictures of the assembly.
 
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