Stalls and hard start

Okay this is the first time I ask a question, but I have read a lot of threads that have helped in the past.
First off I have a 93 volvo 240 91,000 miles automatic non-turbo.
So my problem started a while back when a road had water up to half the tire. It was working fine and of a sudden a big lifted truck was driving so fast through the water that it was like a huge wave went over my car and it died.

So it didn't wanna start and I did not get any codes. So the last time it didn't wanna start it ended up being the ignition control module. So I checked and no current was going to the coil so I swapped it at the parts store. It started and idled okay but the moment I put it from park to any gear it would die but start right back up.

Still no codes and still unable to drive the car. So I tested the coolant temp sensor and it was out of range. So off to the part store to buy a new one. Now it drives but was missing at idle and would die all of a sudden. It seemed not to be getting fuel. But spark was good. So I swapped both fuel pumps strainer and fuel filter. Thank goodness for lifetime warranty at the part store.

So that made no difference at all so I pulled the fuel rail to make sure all the injectors are putting out a good spray of fuel and all 4 fire at the same time it looks like. No fuel leaking from the fuel pressure regulator and it was recently changed. The only strange thing with the fuel system is that if I move the number 4 injector the engine stumbles and this happened before I pulled the fuel rail and after I put new seals.

It also stumbles if I move the wiring at the maf. Also if I unplug the maf it does not go into limp mode it won't start at all. I purchased a new maf and still the same thing.

It has spark and I have an MSD 6a box connected. I have unhooked the msd and it still does the same thing. I have an accel coil and ngk plug wires and ngk plugs all new.

So parts changed all new:
1. Plugs wires coil dist cap and rotor.
2. MAF
3. Both fuel pumps filter and sock.
4. Crankshaft position sensor.
5. Coolant temperature sensor
6. Air filter
7. Ignition Control Module.
8. Idle air control
9. Battery
10. Fuel pump relay and fuses [and contacts cleaned]

Please help me with this issue. Its driving me crazy.

Stupid basic questions first, is there water lingering in the distributor. Are all of the contacts still intact and not corroded / broken.

I will check to check to make sure. But I forgot to mention it has been since June the water issue.

Def take the cap off and clean/dry it and the rotor button.

Check for any residual water anywhere. Might be a good idea to blow it out with some compressed air.

Okay so I checked the cap and rotor and I didn't notice any moisture I did sand all the contacts with 500grit sandpaper and it still does the same. I didn't think about blowing it out with air. When I get home I will blow cap rotor and distributor out.

Hopefully that will fix it and I have warranty on cap and rotor so I will swap them out today.

Thanks for the replies

Well it did it again has New cap and rotor I blow out distributor with air. I checked for vacuum leaks and it doesn't have any leaks.

The "when I wiggle stuff it runs different" makes me think corrosion/loose contacts/ shorting wires... I would bend all the AMM contacts in a bit so they for sure grip the AMM terminals nice and tight. I would also do the same for the injector that causes stumble when you wiggle it. I see that you did replace the filter, do you think water got into the gas? Did you pull the tank and get it completely dry?

Have you cleaned all engine grounds?

Also, what exactly is it doing now? It starts cold and runs, then dies? Or won't start back after it's warmed up? missing?

Is it possible your cat is partially plugged from driving in water ? ( thermal shock )





https://www.catalyticconverter.org/failure/index.htm

I will try to bend contacts for amm and injectors.

It starts no matter hot or cold but have to crank it for about 30 seconds. Or I have to crank it a few seconds at a time for 5 or 6 tries. If I'm driving and it feels like it is going to die I stump the gas pedal down and it will run like crap for 2 or 3 seconds and it will backfire some times sounds like a shotgun from the tail pipe.

Tank emptied and I think I dried it enough I used a blow drier and I only use 93 octane.

The grounds I have not done but will try that and see what happens.

No converter but I was thinking about muffler being plugged if that is possible?

Thanks for all the replies.

I would definitely check all the ground trees! Also I've noticed sometimes water does get into the electrical connections behind the strut Tower next to the firewall occasionally. I would also check the crank sensor I have seen water get into that connection and oxygen sensor connection

Okay will check o2 sensor and wiring?

wasprip26 said:

and it will run like crap for 2 or 3 seconds and it will backfire some times sounds like a shotgun from the tail pipe.



No converter but I was thinking about muffler being plugged if that is possible?

Click to expand...

* If you don't have a cat, then "thermal shock" is not a thing (for the cat)

* Backfire reminds me of ignition related:

a) bad/cracked dstrbtr cap / spring contact not making connection
b) CPS ( wet connection / loose / failed CPS )
c) Distributor slipped ? ( does your rotor line up on mark at TDC ? )
d) Bad plug wires / incorrect order


https://d3vl3jxeh4ou3u.cloudfront.n...rrows to highlight the rotor and the mark.jpg