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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

240wagonguy said:
Looks like the 940/960 e-fan to me.
Click to expand...

Correct. It's a 940 NA eFan that I modified to fit my original 240 short rad, that was again modified to fit the vette radiator. You may laugh, but I used a large cookie baking pan to form the basis of the shroud, lol. I got the idea from here: https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-5-series-forum/551673-electric-fan-shroud.html.

The 940 fan is a bit taller than the vette rad, or the vette rad is a bit shorter than the stock volvo stuff, so some creativity is needed to make it all fit/work.
 
DET17 said:
Is that a Vette E-fan as well? Curious how well it fits..... I’ll need something when my white block resides in my 242. Appreciate more details on figment.
Click to expand...
I considered hunting down a pre-90 C4 Vette fan shroud, but it quickly became cost prohibitive, since it came with added Vette-tax :(. There are lots of companies out there selling thick core aluminum versions of this rad, with the shroud/fans included, but again...the cost was higher than I wanted to pay. I really like the 940 eFan, and already had it, so I decided to work with it.

Here's a photo of it during construction. Again, it's a 940 eFan that I cut up to fit my stock 240 rad, which is why it's cut on the left. A stock 940 shroud would require far less 'extending' to cover the whole core. I cut the pan in quarters, widened it slightly, sealed and riveted it all together, and all of a sudden I had a shroud :).

JkqvmHux_o.jpg


[note], if you look in the picture of the rad installed in the bay, you can see one of the air flaps I added for flow while rolling. I put one on the top and one on the bottom.
 
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Y'know, some people are just naturally gifted at building/fabricating beautiful and functional parts...I am not one of those people. I tend to put more effort into making stuff work the way I want, rather than focusing on the aesthetic properties.

The latest addition:

QhsEOy8N_o.jpg


I needed a way to control the shifts with the POI-shift box I made, and I've had bunch of ideas...but kept coming back to a bump shifter. Hot rod companies want a fortune for one, and there weren't many other options. I ended up using a $20 CAD chinabay arcade joystick, mounted crudely to the tunnel with rivnuts. Still haven't test driven it yet, but it feels pretty good :).

Yeah, it's ghetto...and yeah, I'm still cool with it :).
(Wow...that's a terrible photo, lol)
 
Thanks, it's pretty damn fun. The 1-2 shift still has more of a delay than I'd like, but the rest are instant. Full pressure shifts aren't that bad, IMO, at least at part throttle. I didn't get a chance to test WOT shifts due to a stupid mistake I made that sprayed oil all over the place. I forgot to put the o-ring/gasket between the PCV box and the block :(.

The parts are coming, so I should have a WOT video soon.
 
Here's a terrible video of the first test drive. It starts out vertical and then switches to horizontal, sorry. It's also pretty small, but it shows function well enough.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mvUM12NhXmk" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Been looking to swap from auto to a T5 manual in my 940
But something like this is tempting as a simpler way to get some sort of manual control/feel.

How painful is setting up the POI to work with the AW-7x transmissions? I have zero experience with this
 
The AW30-40E (or A340e by another name), It comes stock on the B6304 in a 960, and a bunch of other cars (Mk4 Supra, some Lexus', Jeeps up to 2000, etc). I use the stock 240 shifter to actuate Park, Reverse, and Neutral, then when I shift into "D", the joystick shifter takes over.
 
Yesterday was a bang-up, f**kin good day. I got my Arduino CAN BUS display working:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zLMNdSo4IWU" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Then I went for a long drive with no issues and a huge smile on my face the whole time :). I thought the B6 would be too loud through the 3" exhaust...but it's definitely not. The sound is heavenly! My only issue is a VERY hard start when warm, due to the VR sensor. I have to look into changing/adding resistors in the VR wiring.
 
A frustrating day, but successful in the end. Swapped out the 4-bar MAPDaddy setup that came with my MS2, and after that...the car wouldn't start. Of course, I didn't notice the no-start until I tried to fire it up after some shunt resistor mods, so I had to work back to figure out what I did. Eventually I discovered a blown fuse (always check the easy stuff first, kids...sigh). The no-start was due to no fuel.

The end result is that I managed to reduce the size of the shunt resistor across the VR leads and still have the full rev range. This might help my hot sync issues...I hope. Either way, the car still fires up right away when it's cold, which is great :).
 
Got a bit of help from the msextra forums to convert the *F to *C, which was more trouble than expected. Why there isn't an option to output CAN data in either unit is beyond me. Only 10% of the world uses *F anymore. I also added an ethanol percent display, since I have a sensor waiting to go in anyway. We don't have E85% in my area, but it'd be nice to see what the percentage of ethanol is in the local gas.

uW5SWG8Y_o.jpg
 
FINALLY! I got the display temporarily mounted and the interior buttoned up (mostly). I figured I'd celebrate by going for a drive to the junkyard (that relocated to 15 min from my house! :D ). I got there 10 minutes before closing, so I decided to take a few pictures and come back tomorrow. I actually ended up talking with the junkyard manager, who chased me down before I left the parking lot. He dug my car, which was a bit of an ego boost, lol.

9KDXzmK9_o.jpg



I've got a tach adapter to wire in tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures of the dash display too.
 
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Big picture, but it's easier to see the final mounting place of the display that way. I found the 'plans' for a small enclosure for the screen and had it 3D printed. It fits nicely on the switch panel in the center console, although I had to leave one plug out so the cable would fit.

7r6ieKmn_o.jpg


(Excuse the box on the passenger floor, it's the shift controller. Haven't really decided where it's going to go yet, since I mounted the 'gear display' LEDs on it. Might have to relocate those.)
 
Hows the coolant temp sensor working for the gauge? I was looking for the part number you quoted, but can't seem to find it. Any details, like a part number I could find online?
 
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