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The (More Fun) Daily Driver Build

Cool, you can modify the distributor to have less total advance if you want a little more midrange power, that way you can run higher base timing and still dont get way to advanced at higher rpm.
That will give you a more responsive engine and a little more torqe below 4k rpm.
Higher max ignition then 30 degrees give you no more power at all, only cooler sounds when banging the revlimiter and knocking issues.
With and H-cam it is really easy to get high rpm knock, not just where the engine makes the most cylinder pressure, that kind of knock is really hard to hear.
The H-cam is the only one allowed in VOC rallycars here in sweden so we have put ALOT of hours in at the dyno testing. About 160-165 hp is about where we end up with a stock B23 (H-cam, GT 60mm exhaust) with just a really good rebuild keeping to volvos max tolerances and many hours of testing.
 
Da_Snake said:
Cool, you can modify the distributor to have less total advance if you want a little more midrange power.
Click to expand...

Since the distributor advance is computer controlled (no springs, no weights), how do you go about limiting advance without modifying the Chrysler ignition setup? I'm running the Bosch distributor rather than the white cap setup. I've often thought about doing this by buying one of the 123 programmable distributors, but am unsure how well that would play with the LH2 EFI system.

I would love to go to MS or some other programmable EFI system running a wasted spark system, but just don't have time to install it and sort it out (job, kids, wife, etc.). Some guidance would be appreciated.
 
Hmmm, some headlight saver tape might be a good idea, or, if you can find them, the clear plastic headlamp protectors that iPd and some other places used to sell. Pop those on, and your H4's won't die due to rocks, etc...

-J
 
Minor update.

Usual maintenance stuff, engine oil and trans oil (Type F).

Took out the manual steering rack and installed a JY ZF rack. Found that lurking in a 93 wagon from an old Green Car Co. D24T conversion. For those not familiar with GCC, they converted a number of 93 wagons to install the euro version of the D24T backed by an M47. Imported the motors and everything. This was ~10-12 years ago. They were a victim of the 'great recession'. One of the things that they did was to install a brand new ZF rack. This one was still in great condition with nice and tight inner and outer ends as well as good boots. Installed it with an early 80's pump on an AC delete bracket. Used type F fluid as well per the Greenbook. Checked the toe. Looked good at 1/8" toe in (total).

I had intentionally gone to manual steering when I put the car together. I wanted as little power equipment as possible. It turned out that with 235mm wide front tires driving the car at low speed is an exercise in patience. This was especially true when parking with grooved concrete. The steering shaft U joint bearings were wasted due to the excessive steering effort. Driving the car this way had become dangerous as it would rut track terribly. This would fling the car around when transiting across some of the construction areas in Tacoma and the 167/405 interchange.

Driving into work this morning was so nice. Its interesting having driven the same car for so long with manual steering and switching to power. I was surprised to see just how different the car drives. Much smoother - especially on secondary roads at 25-45 mph and the long sweeping onramps that WSDOT seems to prefer. Its also interesting to compare my wife's 91 wagon power cam rack to this cars power ZF rack. The ZF rack is a little higher wheel effort with a correspondingly higher road feel.
 
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