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Cheap, mild N/A B230F build for racing?

Wow, those are some gnarly chains (front and rear)!

Have you tried switching the spiked front to the outside instead? Might tend to pull the front end down and behind less (does that make sense?)? Seems like it would turn in better also. But I've never raced on ice, only dirt, so take anything I'm saying with a grain of salt.

I was thinking stock Bilstein HD's for the rear since they are kind of soft (traction) and dampen really well (more traction). You could probably pick up a set of used ones on here for not too much money.
 
I had the same questions about the spiking the inside front.

I started with ANSI size 60 roller chain on both, no spikes. Those quickly fell off (1st turn of first race, swap sides, 3rd turn of 2nd race,) so I just had bald front tires, thankfully no video of how that went.

After much discussion with some folks who win all the time and have this dialed, I sized up to 80 chain, got some take-offs with center grooves they could slot into from behind local tire stores, and put those snowmobile picks on the inside. I was told putting them outside can bite too much and get weird, but honestly I haven't tried it. They weren't feeding me a line, they're all set up this way and I'm actually relatively happy with the front end, back is just whackadoo. I have had an inkling to maybe add 6 spikes to the outside, wide-spaced, just to try it out, see what happens. Maybe later.

Next time I'm near the car I'll take a look at the rear shocks. I kinda want to say they might actually be Bilsteins but my memory sucks, and they're still old regardless.
 
Also, I've somehow forgotten to mention all this, but:

This is the Lakes Region Ice Racing Club, in Moultonborough, NH. Anyone who can should come out, schedule is on the website, lrirc.com, more on facebook.com/LRIRC. It's every weekend as long as the ice is OK. They put on a good event, everyone is extremely nice and welcoming, and forget this stupid Volvo, watching 410 sprint cars on ice is ****ing incredible.
 
I have received word that the fluid is leaking from "the middle of the rack" and the hoses are fine, which seems pretty worst-case to me.

So, current open questions:

1) Can the power steering system be used dry, under severe duty, or does this need fixed before use lest bad things happen?

2) If I get another standard 740 rack, and put a 2:1 quickener in front of it, will it become a consumable?

3) About how long can I run with the O2 sensor in the passenger compartment before I've ruined plugs &c.?
 
1) Yes, several people on the forum run them as manual racks.

2) Most likely. I've blown out a few racks on my lifted wagon when playing on our oval dirt "track" on our property. It doesn't like having to steer those giant ass tires all that much.

3) Just a little bit longer than you already have. Weld a bung in with your new welder!
 
To run the steering as a manual rack, do I need to loop any lines? I assume I need a new belt to not spin the power steering pump, too?

I would really rather have power steering and would rather not put too much effort into a stopgap until I can find a new rack, but if this is easy and gets the car moving for Sunday it'll do.

I posted in the maintenance area trying to figure out if I can just buy a rack "for a 740" or if it needs to be the same type that's in there now, I'm going to spam that link here because I'd need something basically overnight at this point to get ready for this weekend if that's even possible.

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=339568
 
Problem was blown hardline above steering rack, well hidden. I was lucky to find this without dropping the rack, PITA that is on this car. I was told it was like the 240, U-bolts. If only.

FYI, 12mm brass bubble flare adapters fit the hard line connectors, and brake line fits into that. Seems to work, if you ever blow a line on at least a ZF power steering rack.
 
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