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Extending the pedal travel on clutch?

Well something is definitely still not right. I have the aftermarket cable in as my band-aid and I adjusted it correctly. Pulling out of the driveway... no issues. But by the time I got to work... couldn't get the damn thing into reverse to parallel park.

I'm out of town this weekend, but I'll get into it next week. I'm at such a loss here though. From what I could tell, my clearances are all good, I'm not hitting anything...

Ugh. wth.
 
EivlEvo said:
Well something is definitely still not right. I have the aftermarket cable in as my band-aid and I adjusted it correctly. Pulling out of the driveway... no issues. But by the time I got to work... couldn't get the damn thing into reverse to parallel park.
Click to expand...

This was my life before I swapped to hydraulic. I had a heavy heavy pressure plate in my car and was starting to pull and stretch the cable, distort the firewall, bend the fork etc. Usually every 50 miles of driving I'd have to pull up on the adjustment in order to get it into 1st and reverse. Couple of times on the road where I had to turn the car off to get it into 1st and get away from a light.

Do you have a heavy clutch in the car? It reads to me like you're just suffering for the crappy cable setup. All of this is exactly what motivated me to go hydraulic, it was expensive but I'm happy I did it.
 
So you have the DeeWorks adapter? I do too, and the PO sold it to me with this taller TOB:

r797978430jsa.qkt


Worked flawlessly, with no need to shim anything. On my B20 bellhousing, I did need to space the pivot, and it also worked fine.
 
THe thing is... if the fork hits the stops on the bellhousing, I could see the need of going to the taller TOB. But I'm running the Kennedy Stage 2. These PP require standoffs of about an inch which means that (at least in my mind) the fork should be pushed WAY back. Think dogdish flywheel. But of course, there's plenty of room at the back.

I dunno how or why this is being so finicky though? Maybe my firewall is about to die?

To go hydraulic I feel like I need a lot of unobtainium though? STS doesn't have the pedal finished yet. I don't have a hydro pedal. Or a hydro fork.

Otherwise, my cable is loosening itself somehow? Which seems so unlikely.
 
EivlEvo said:
To go hydraulic I feel like I need a lot of unobtainium though? STS doesn't have the pedal finished yet. I don't have a hydro pedal. Or a hydro fork.
Click to expand...

Besides the elusive hydro pedal, all other hydro clutch components are available. The cable clutch pedal can be modified for hydro duty w/o much drama.

For reference:
Centric 136.39000 clutch master cyl – Rock Auto (240 diesel / 260 application) <--maybe not 240 diesel in real life, but categorized as such on RA.
Centric 138.39002 slave cyl – Rock Auto (740 Turbo application)
30mm snap ring (914463) – Tasca
Sachs SBA8006 throwout bearing – Rock Auto (740 Turbo application) <--may or may not work for your setup
M90 clutch fork (3549983) – Tasca
Lock spring (1377132) - Tasca
Steel M12x1.0 – 3AN adapter (@slave) – eBay
Steel M12x1.0 – 3AN banjo (@master) – eBay
36” premade 3AN braided stainless line – eBay
Clutch pedal return spring (1205725) – Tasca
Clutch pedal pin (964843) – Tasca
Clutch pedal split pin (664822) – Tasca
 
TBH What's even different about the pedals? Wouldn't the master just pin to the pedal the same way as the cable? Or does it come down to the cable pedal is pulling the cable and the hydro pedal needs to push the master cyl?

If it needs to be pushed, how much of a pain is that to install? Getting the hole aligned properly seems like it could be a pain...
 
Also, isn't the pivot point for the M90 different as well? The pivot on the M46/7 is...

Pivot, then TOB, then cable hook.

But on the M90 its' TOB, then pivot, then cable hook.

How would that work?
 
You can but it would take a lot of modifications to the inside of your bell housing to get your internal slave mounted in the proper spot. That one you posted needs a stud with threads and nuts on each side of the thing to adjust it up and down and the stud has to thread into the bellhousing at the correct spot. So you might have to cut stuff out of way and weld in aluminum plate and drill an tap for the stud. I've seen it done. Usually it's more then just one stud, two at least. That depends on what internal slave you use of course. Then if it goes bad you gotta remove the whole trans to replace it. The stock volvo hdyro setup the slave is in that same spot on the bell housing where the cable goes through and then a rod to the shift fork. EAsy to replace.

The m90 and m47 or m46 hydro setups use the same exact pusher clutch fork. Same pivot point on the drivers side of the car opposite of the 240 cable pull longer fork. You can remove the hydro fork with everything still in the car, you gotta take the trans out to remove the 240 cable type of fork.

All 740 turbos use hydro setups with manual trans. 260's use hydro setups with manual trans. I got my hydro 240 setup from a 260, it's the one I lent to the twins at STS to make there 240 hydro pedals from. I'm going hydro on my 88 245 myself with NA 2.5L and STS flat flywheel with lh 2.4 and the stock m47.

All M46 M47 bell housings have the spot on each side of the bell housing for either the puller 240 style cable clutch pivot ball fork or the 740 turbo hydro push style fork. The pivot ball is the same for either.
 
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EivlEvo said:
TBH What's even different about the pedals? Wouldn't the master just pin to the pedal the same way as the cable? Or does it come down to the cable pedal is pulling the cable and the hydro pedal needs to push the master cyl?
Click to expand...
Correct, the cable pedal has a tab on top of the pivot point to pull the cable. The hydro pedal has a tab below the pivot point to push on the clutch master piston.

Cable pedal:
353e6wk.jpg


Hydro pedal:
clutchhydr260pedal.jpg


To modify the cable clutch pedal you need to replace the "pull" tab with a "push" tab and extend the pedal by ~2.5" since it gets mounted higher in the pedal box.

Here is my modified pedal for reference:
FPD7OUe.jpg
 
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Hmm... so it's gotta go into a higher bolt position? I assume this is just swapping that rail thats in there now with the pedal?

This all said... I crawled under there today to check all the adjustments. It seems like the adjuster was loosening itself plausibly due to cable twist? I double checked all the clearances and I definitely have plenty of clearance fore and aft between the bell and the fork.

Anybody have any good tips to snug up the two plastic adjuster screws on the stupid aftermarket unit? I was thinking of putting some blue loctite on it actually, but... I'm hesitant to do something like that as it may make it TOO difficult to adjust... since it's all plastic.
 
Are you looking for a decent used OE cable? I have two around here somewhere.

Re: the hydraulics - I went with a Tilton hydraulic slave bearing. It was not very difficult to install and I am happy to be rid of the fork, pivots and all of that.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
Are you looking for a decent used OE cable? I have two around here somewhere.

Re: the hydraulics - I went with a Tilton hydraulic slave bearing. It was not very difficult to install and I am happy to be rid of the fork, pivots and all of that.
Click to expand...

Nah... I've got one that showed up today and a bead on a couple more. Thanks though.

Pillow said:
@Mike, thanks for sharing the cable to hydro pedal information!
Click to expand...

This. This info is gold info.
 
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