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1987 244 DL Autocrosser

I agree. Just needs that mad tyte - front camber and some war stripes. And side mirrors not folded in.

Do you ever travel to other regions to play? I'm not sure if there are any close but I would imagine one or two in virginia or baltimore wouldn't be too far away. It's always nice to go somewhere else and get a change in scenery. Especially when you start getting bored of your course designers.
 
I can dial out understeer with more rear spring rate. With the 325lb rear springs, the car had definite oversteer. After lowering the rear and softening the springs, it's probably tending towards understeer, but it really just drove nice. Turns in well and the front grips, but the rear stays in line. On my last run I went off course and then tried to toss the rear out, but the front wouldn't grip enough on the slick sealed asphalt. I want more rotation so I'm bumping the rear springs back to 300 for the next event.

My opinion has been that the rear bar only adds weight. I can't see anything good coming from a rear bar with the rest of my setup. On a near-stock 240, rear bar is fine.

I probably need more camber on the front, but I need to take temps again. Didn't get a chance at the last event, was too busy checking my rear tire rubbage.

I wouldn't dial out the understeer with more rear spring rate. I would dial it out by keeping the front tires on the ground. If you can maintain contact patch on both tires you will get a lot less understeer. Get the front lower, more supported droop travel...
 
A different shot with the rear tire higher in the air, from a different photographer
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Lotta sidewall hiding under that fender
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Don't knock the side mirrors being folded in. I'm a convert:oogle:

Before the last event we had borrowed a camber gauge and so we weren't guessing on the alignment quite as much. With my camber plate maxed out on the passenger side, It was off the gauge at over -6*... which explained why braking felt a little compromised.

I agree. Just needs that mad tyte - front camber and some war stripes. And side mirrors not folded in.

Do you ever travel to other regions to play? I'm not sure if there are any close but I would imagine one or two in virginia or baltimore wouldn't be too far away. It's always nice to go somewhere else and get a change in scenery. Especially when you start getting bored of your course designers.
 
Don't knock the side mirrors being folded in. I'm a convert:oogle:

Before the last event we had borrowed a camber gauge and so we weren't guessing on the alignment quite as much. With my camber plate maxed out on the passenger side, It was off the gauge at over -6*... which explained why braking felt a little compromised.
I'd question the gauge. This was about -5.5 I think, with the super duper long kaplhenke extended drift spec control arms. There was daylight under the outside shoulder of the tire. Horrible idea...
http://www.pbase.com/blkaplan/image/46683974.jpg
 
How much caster did Adrian have when he measured the camber? Was it varying between positive and negative?
 
Three's company. The helper on top of the tender will keep the tender & main pressed together at full droop so the coupler won't fall out, therefore I've removed the need for zip ties to hold my springs together.

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Did some more clearancing...plus added 1/4" spacers between the hub and adapter. The tires won't rub, but they might fall off...just hope Bne is driving when they pop!

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how does the lug engagement look with the spacers between the hub and adapter?

still have hubcentric engagement?
 
Still hub-centric. 10.5 turns w/o spacer, 6.5 with spacer. That's just shy of 1/2" engagement, and it was a little over 1/2" before. I thought the rule of thumb was at least as much thread engagement as you have diameter of the fastener? They torqued to 80lb-ft so I hope it's enough. I'll retorque when the tires come off to change them at the autoX. Still need to mount the hoosiers on both sides at the rear and check clearance. Still have to hammer on the drivers side and grind the trailing arm.

One option would be to face the base of the lug holes in the adapter to remove the taper, drill out the hole larger, and use a long shank lugnut that goes into the adapter...similar to what the BBS require. That would give a lot more thread engagement.
 
A class 10 12mm nut is 10mm tall. As long as you can torque it without stripping the threads, it "should" be ok. .5" engagement is probably ample
 
Well I meant what kind of an event was that? A free for all or something? I ask because rarely do I see tire smoke and your car in the same pics.
 
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