• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

LH2.4 swap, Speedometer

turbovulvo

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Location
Omaha, NE
I plan on installing the new motor this week into the car and will be wiring up the LH 2.4, (i am converting my 88 from 2.2 to 2.4). I have a lh 2.4 gauge cluster. I have the speed sensor that measures the 2.4 flexplate. I have both of those installed (2.4 flexplate and speed sensor) Do I need to run a wire from pin 34 to some kind of sensor on the dif to make it idle normal or is that only for k-jet cars?

Getting so close to having a DD volvo for the first time!

Thanks
 
No, you need to get the pig tail harness the runs from the cluster over to the ECU from an LH 2.4 240. That is where the ECU gets its speed signal from. If you look at that harness that is in your 88 it has a 4 wire connector at the ECU end. The LH 2.4 harness you are installing has a 6 pin connector at that location. The extra 2 wires are the speed signal connection.
 
Here is what the connectors on my harness look like. Im not sure what I have going on.

DSCN0456.jpg


DSCN0455.jpg


Any help for this would be appreciated
 
Or you can just throw the idle control motor in the garbage! I NEVER use them, they suck, clutter up the engine bay, and get in the way when doing future maintenance. All you need to do is cap off the air inlet on the intake pipe, and the intake manifold. use rubber caps with clamps. And set the idle how you like it using the LH 2.2 throttle body. I use the idle set screw to set the idle around 800 rpm when its hot. When cold it will idle lower. Also you get back the black CO mix screw for fine tuning the idle. And of course readjust the linkage and TPS switch while you are at it.

I also like how its idle low when cold started, so the engine turns lower rpms until proper oil pressure is made. With the idle control motor the engine races up right away to 1500 or 2000 rpms, and slowly idles down to whatever idle it was set to. That last statement is negligible for my argument but I like it to not race up so high when cold. Not my forte.
 
big black plug is EZK
big white is LH
small black is main (white 6 pin) relay
small white plug is dash connections (alt, oil, start, tach, ect ect ect) looks like its a non ABS connector, so -93 240?
 
For Lh 2.4 the speed sensor from the diff tells the ECU when the car is slowing down and speeding up. I ran mine without that and it does throw a code, but seemed to run just fine. Others have said you have to have that hooked up and it won't run right without it. The crank sensor is not the speed sensor.

The speed sensor input to the ECU comes from the dash speedometer like tomanyturbos said. You can't just hook it from the rear speed sensor it has to come from the LH 2.4 dash as it adjusts the impedance there with something in the cluster. I'm not exactly sure what but a resistor or something.

Slobodan, he can't adjust his CO screw on his LH 2.4 AMM as it doesn't have that...That's lh2.2 and he's going to upgrade to 2.4...

So the speed sensor in the rear has a couple wires that run to the dash and then from there to the ECU. The crank sensor on the flexplate tells the puters where the motor is and that controls spark and fuel timing. The rear diff speed sensor tells the puter when your slowing down and it will then cut fuel coasting above a certain speed if the TPS is also closed. If you don't have the rear speed sensor hooked up to the puters it won't cut fuel as much when coasting. I saw this on my wideband as I did eventually hook up the rear diff speed sensor to the puter from the speedo of course. With it hooked up you should probably get a little better mileage.
 
Last edited:
I took some more pictures today to see what I have. I have a 4 plug dash harness with this plug.

DSCN0459.jpg


The plug on the 2.4 harness is this one.

DSCN0473.jpg


As you can see I have the matching plug from the dash harness of the 2.4 car.

I do not however know what I need to do from here. Do I cut my 2.2 dash harness and try to match up the 11 plug harness from lh 2.4? Do I search for a 6 pin lh 2.4 engine harness and pigtail? Can you make your own pigtail?

Here is the back of my 2.4 speedometer cluster.

DSCN0471.jpg


When it comes to the electronic stuff, Im lost. Sorry If you guys are getting annoyed.
 
What you need to do is get a roll of painters tape, a sharpie, a 6 pack of beer, and a multimeter and start pinning wires out and labeling them. Please post back with the results.

You need a good wiring diagram that say the ECU and ICU pin number and wire colors. They might not be perfectly correlated with the diagram, but should be almost the same colors as in your diagram depending on which one you have.

I helped a tbricker that cut the entire bundle coming out of his firewall on his 740 and we just pinned it out with a wiring diagram, multimeter set on Ohms, and labeled each wire.

The black connector is missing the relay.
 
Where could I find one of these good wiring diagrams. I have the bentley manual but the wiring diagrams seem really small, as if they were rezised to fit on a page. Volvo is going to print the diagrams they have out for me tomorrow. I cant find the diagram on Vadis.
 
Where could I find one of these good wiring diagrams. I have the bentley manual but the wiring diagrams seem really small, as if they were rezised to fit on a page. Volvo is going to print the diagrams they have out for me tomorrow. I cant find the diagram on Vadis.

A Volvo Green Book. I have one here for a 1990 240. If it has the section you need, I'll scan it a post it to this thread.
 
Got a 9 pin harness from the jy today. Does anyone have a pinout for the 88 240 dash to engine harness connector. It is a 4 pin connector and has 3 wires going to it. Red, Red yellow, and Red black. Thanks
 
I am in the same boat as you. I have no spark and it is either my wiring from the 4 pin connector (old lh2.2) to the new 9 pin
(lh2.4) or my rpm sensor on top of the bellhousing.
 
Be sure to check. The 89 and newer body harness has a different pin out vs. 88 and older. The difference carries over to the switch. IOW, if you put an 89 + switch into an 88 and older car, it won't run due to a no spark condition. Different pins on the switch receive power in the start and run positions. That's probably what is going on with camelwideswagon.
 
Back
Top