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DIY Cherry Turbo lower brace?

I've seen DIY versions of that brace on the forums before. I think 3/16" mild steel was used,

I'm just wondering because the design looks so simple, they might have done tempered steel or something. I have access to plenty of spare flat bar, so I think it's possible to make my own.
 
the flat one is easy to built. I have put off building one for years because when I find a used one for $40-50 delivered, its hard to justify running down the flat stock to built it. the round one is even simpler but in my mind not as effective.
 
I suppose some round tubing with crushed ends could possibly work too, might be lighter too, but then they won't have the bar that goes across like on the Cherry Turbo one.

Looks like extra weight to me.

The cross bar is fairly useless unless it runs diagonally.

Also as I said in the other thread 7/8" EMT is sufficient as tubing is very strong when end loaded.
 
Okay, quick question. Is there a difference if I brace the cross member to the frame instead of drilling and bolting onto the rear bushing holders of the control arms? Yoshifab's braces go to the frame, while the cherry turbo braces attach to the rear bushing holders.
 
7/8 emt wall thickness .0456"
3/4 schedule 40 steel pipe .824"

Are you comparing wall thickness or outer diameter? Where did you get the sizes? Both pipes you listed (assuming 1/2" pipes not 3/4" or 7/8")should have similiar outer diameters if comparing rigid conduit to schedule 40 and will have a wall thickness of ~1/8". Now EMT- light duty conduit- is thinner with a respective reduction in the outer diameter and 3/4" would fall close in outer diameter to the other two.There is not much of any steel part that thick on the front of these cars from the factory that is 1/8" thick. You know it would not be the piece that fails.
 
That's hard for me to believe. Are you saying 3/4" steel pipe has a wall thickness of almost 1 inch? How can that be?

Oops I used the wrong dimension, it's .113" , regardless it's an order of magnitude thicker. Might as well use butterfly wing bushings with snake skin reinforcements if you're using emt.
 
Okay, quick question. Is there a difference if I brace the cross member to the frame instead of drilling and bolting onto the rear bushing holders of the control arms? Yoshifab's braces go to the frame, while the cherry turbo braces attach to the rear bushing holders.

Volvo Gt lower braces attach to the control arm bushing brackets - they have to be drilled.


There was a noticeable difference when I installed mine
 
Volvo Gt lower braces attach to the control arm bushing brackets - they have to be drilled.


There was a noticeable difference when I installed mine

Yeah but yoshifab's braces bolt on to existing threaded hole on the frame about 2 feet from the cross member. The reviews on those claim to feel quite a difference too.
 
Oops I used the wrong dimension, it's .113" , regardless it's an order of magnitude thicker. Might as well use butterfly wing bushings with snake skin reinforcements if you're using emt.

:lol:

You don't understand how tubing works, 1/8" wall is just extra unneeded weight.

A plastic soda straw can be imbedded in an oak tree in a tornado.
 
Look at the thickness of all the members it would be connecting. None are that thick. If the EMT thickness is too thin for your taste, then get some .060" chromemoly tubing. Fairly cheap and easily shipped. FFS leave the schedule 40 for the plumber...
 
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The area moment of inertia of the 3/4" schedule 40 is higher than the EMT, which means it has more flexural ridgitity assuming the same material). However depending on the other members of the system it may be overkill and just unnecessary weight.
 
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