Microsquirt 16v+t

I cant express how impressed i am at those h beams off ebay!!

I emailed max speed, about buying one rod, they emailed me back the price for the set,

"Yes, we have stock for this rods in US now, the price is 213 USD with free shipping, you would receive it in about 3~5 business days once payment is cleared.
If there is no problem, we will send you an invoice to --------------is that ok?"


Dang, $213?!!!!! Free shipping, well, this may be the way to go..






then i emailed back i only needed one, here is their reply..

"Sorry for my misunderstanding, yes, we can offer one piece, but it can be only shipped from HongKong, the price is 75 USD including shipping fee, which would be delivered in about 4~7 business days. If this is ok with you, can you tell us the serial number on the rods, so we can get the right one for you.

Best Regards,
Maxspeedingrods
sales@maxspeedingrods.co.uk"

Pretty friggin awesome.

Did the old water in the runners trick to see what valves were leaking. pretty much all of them are leaking a very little amount water past them. So it's time to go bigger or use the other 16v head i have.

A Friend and I pulled the engine out last night. Here are some pictures. Its possible previous owner may have let engine sit and freeze with water in it before i got it, or any other number of things could have happened.











That rod took a beating, i am pretty impressed with the quality of it honestly. Considering i have never seen any rod shear a stock Volvo Wrist pin in half, without folding completely over.

This is monkey business...

I got alot done in the last couple of days. Pulled the pistons out of old $62 block, and the rods. Three pistons are ok, and i have another three left over from last block. So gonna still use those, because i can, and because babies are expensive. I have the forged pistons, but not ready to take that plunge yet.
I Pulled the parts head off of sons car, it was trashed, big crack in the middle of it. So it got way overheated. I used some valve guides from old head and some valves from old head to make mine better. I have new valve seals so i used those. Made a dandy little tool out of 12mm 1/4 inch deep socket and a long bolt and nut and a few washers to pull valve guides out with. I damaged the first four and was about to give up when i finally figured out the right combo of tools to get the guides out of one head and into another with a 10mm socket tapping them back in carefully. Seemed to work out well, but not patting myself on the back yet, till its running again. Putting the valve stem retainers back on was the most difficult with my fat fingers, but I got it all done without paying a machine shop a dime. I put my 91+ block with squirters up on the engine stand to get ready for the transfer of parts. Waiting on a new full set of rods to come in so i can reassemble and hopefully have some more fun with this used junk stuff. Enjoy the picture show.
Of course i had to get the shirt, and took a selfie.



Parts car 91(iirc) gle 740




Got new taillights, new fan, radiator, correct 16 v throttle linkage and cable, some interior bits, some under hood bits.. Of course the 16v badge.








Always with the cracks on parts 16v head.My son overheated the piss out of it, it had no coolant and i could blow dust off the dip stick-no oil. That poor car, kids.. SMH.








My dandy valve guide removal tool. And a guide.




So i rebuilt it with old chit, from other head.Old valves in ,Old valve guides in, and new valve seals-all cost spared .

dirty

clean





















Now i wait on rods.

Changed my mind, stripped down the squirter block, took it to Motor head machine shop to get it magnafluxed, cleaned, bored for wisecos forged pistons. Line bore and deck if needed.

Slowly making my way from junk shiz to new shiz.

haltechsupra said:

Slowly making my way from junk shiz to new shiz.

Click to expand...

Probably, cheaper in the long run. When a piston fails, it is rarely limited to just the piston that gets damaged.

Indeed.

Got word back from machine shop, bore has been done, now they need to deck it, as it is twisted from corner to corner. I will have it back Tuesday along with the new rods and start reassembly. I can't wait! Hopefully my house, and the machine shop, will not be under water by then, as we are getting hit with severe storms and flooding again, pretty much a recap of last memorial day In Houston Texas.
Happy Memorial day to those who are the family of the deceased that have served for our freedoms! I am sorry for your loss, and i am appreciative for their service.

If it's twisted like that, check the line bore on the crank.

That's what i thought too, but, it was reported fine, just the edges of the block diagonally were "turned up" a tad.When i pulled the working crank out of that block, there was no uneven wear pattern in any of the main bearings or journals, however the thrust bearing on rear was pretty -eh, "used up". So i asked for specs of how far out, and he said I have to mic it" , sounded fishy (like wtf are you calling me for if you have no specs, and mic on head, isn't that a feeler gauge type deal-with a flat bar?!), "hey your block deck is twisted from edge to edge" he says, i say "really how far?" he says, "i don't know i will have to check it tuesday" mmmkay then????... So i wait, and hope , and pray..Not to mention all of this costs as much as the pistons did, I'm like whoa nelly?!! I didn't know you guys cost as much as Hennessy , or i would have taken it there instead.. My head itches right now. My heart is writhing in pain, did i make another bad choice?!!! We will see.Reminds me of the two 16 valve heads that got ruined at another local houston machine shop. "How much did you shave off the head deck" i ask.. The answer "just enough to make it flat" I was livid -i even specified, tell me how much it's out and how much you need to remove, NOPE NEVER THAT. I remember spending half the amount of money to bore, line bore, and balance all my supra stuff, and even less to bore and oring a b23ft block back in the day..I'm getting worried, should i be?
It seems lately-I measure more on my junk stuff than machine shops seem to do on a daily basis around here.I hope this one doesn't follow suit, or it's really gonna cost me now. Hopefully i am just jumping to conclusions, we will see.

2manyturbos said

Probably, cheaper in the long run. When a piston fails, it is rarely limited to just the piston that gets damaged.

Click to expand...

When a block fails, it's very rarely just the block that is affected.


Just to clarify, a piston did not fail, Until-the block had came apart from a split in the bore. (could have been split from improper storage by previous owner-water in it and froze, or could have been overheated, or who knows)I knew it ate Antifreeze from day one but could never see a leak , not even with a Radiator pressure test(i always tested it cold_DUH) I did not know, and kept running it till the bore gave out,UNDER VACUUM, then the piston failed, as the broken bore momentarily seized it- then the stock volvo wrist pin broke in half, the piston sheared away from wrist pin -and the rod, in many bits and pieces, as any stock piston would -or even a forged piston- for that matter.The rest of the top of the piston stayed at top of bore and got beat into the four valves repeatedly before i shut it off by the relentless flailing h beam rod.

Piston was not the cause, it was the effect. Any crumbling bore will break a piston apart on the way up, or the way down as the piston will try to walk sideways in the bore without the proper wall there to guide it, as can be seen on Kenny Howard's split bore- that happened a week after mine (under much more power for sure). His "scuffy" skirt was getting ready to kick out and cause damage like mine from (axial?) flex of the broken or split bore moving around -a little more than intended to. I would be scared to run that piston again, but to each his own, i have run worse..With less fear. ha ha .Albeit a bit slower.. Much props.

I got my block back from Motorhead Machine, turns out their prices are pretty comparative for the area, and their work appears to be on point. I feel happily humbled at this point. Line bored, honed, decked, magnifluxed $470 out the door.




Looks like the 93 squirt er block got bored .20 over, with.004 clearance for forged wisecos.

Here's the sheet.

Withoutread block o text..yeeehaaawwwww

dewdsaywhat

I decided to clear coat the block with 2000 degree f VHT clear satin paint. Patina.

.0040 over, maybe i need to fill the block.. gulp..