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'74 242 T6 Recreational Vehicle

Thanks man!

Took the lower part of the dash out to see whats going on around the firewall and trans tunnel. Not much.
Took the heater core out as well. I never gotten why one would need 243 different options of where air comes from.
I just need hot or nothing, primarily for defog.

So I'll be keeping my eyes open for one of these:
SUM-991102-1_ml.jpg


Or maybe some cute japanese of Smart cars at the JY might have something like it. Whatever, worries for later.









Found some rust as well, but it was less than I expected. Also worries for later :)

I had some luck finding parts, I bought a set of good front fenders and a nice flathood for ?30 :cool:
Also found a powersteering rack. As I said, it's Volvo parts everywhere here in a range of 10 miles :)
 
I have one of those heaters for my 242. I haven't tried fitting it yet. It was really cheap from summit racing. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get it cheaper on Alibaba?

Jordan
 
Yeah the one I posted is from Summit as well, they're around $150. But maybe I'll build a box around the original core and use a modern fan, I don't really trust that cheap Chinese stuff under my dash.
I bought a H4 wiring harness once with really nice and thick wiring, until I found out it was really just thick isolation around a way too thin copper wire..
 

Sometimes my 940 has a little surprise for me before it lets me leave..

Went out to the JY to find a small brake booster to accomodate the intake manifold. Most small cars have huge boosters I found out though, but I found a real nice one in a early 2000's or so Suzuki Swift. Took me litterally 10 minutes to take it out while I was expecting the opposite, the 4 bolts are very accesible and spun right off with a finger. Cool thing that I didn't know yet, it's almost plug and play as well.





Weird thing about those small Japanese cars is they all smell the same.





The rod/clevis length are exactly the same, only the inner diameter of the clevis is smaller, 9 vs 12.2mm. Not a lot of work to make it fit.
I drilled some holes and it fits like like a glove. Looks quite good as well, and it has a separate left and right (and combined rear) output. Hope it displaces enough fluid for some big Brembos, but the bore seems a lot bigger than the oem 240 one. Need to figure out the rears, the Swift has rear drums.







I also test fitted the M90, man they are big :) Not a lot of room to spare, at least around the bolt holes I need some extra. I think I'll end up making a whole new trans tunnel anyway.
I think it's gonna be a hydraulic throwout as well, I won't have room for my size 12 right foot if I leave the fork assembly.

Fitted the engine again now with intake and took the sway bar out, did some markings.





Time to break out the angle grinder :cool:













Right how I pictured it :cool: Left some pieces for reference.
As you can see the brake booster now easily clears the intake. The oil filler cap doesn't clear though, and would be very hard to reach.
So I took it out and swapped it with the center freeze plug.
It was stuck as hell by the way, I made a contraption to pull it out with the block hoist. It took the weight of the engine easily, but some tapping around separated them eventually.





So that's it for today. Next up is building motor mounts, mating the M90 and do some test fitting and cutting again.
 
Nice work! Like the brakebooster mod:)
Why did you decide to cut out the firewall when there is more than enough room for the eninge original?
 
Wait, did the man who just widened and chopped up his complete 242 just ask me this? :)

But to answer the question, the 6 cylinder is quite long, cam position sensor adds another 30mm compared to non-CVVT, so it would add more weight to the front than the 4 cylinder or maybe a 5. Better weight distribution, and the fact that I like the building process, I'm not in it to throw some parts at it and call it a day.
 
Last edited:
Funkee said:
Wait, did the man who just widened and chopped up his complete 242 just ask me this? :)

But to answer the question, the 6 cylinder is quit long, cam position sensor adds another 30mm compared to non-CVVT, so it would add more weight to the front than the 4 cylinder or maybe a 5. Better weight distribution, and the fact that I like the building process, I'm not in it to throw some parts at it and call it a day.
Click to expand...

Hahaha:-P

Thanks for the answer! Understand Your reasons:)In norway we cant do anything to the firewall if we want to keep Our lisence plate unfortually.
 
Yeah I understood from reading your topic. Over here a lot is allowed, there are some clear regulations but a lot is possible as long as it's executed properly. I made some calls with the RDW (government regulator) to be sure I'm not putting in all the work for nothing.
The engine has to be mounted properly in the first place, if you want the engine swap 'on your plate' it only needs to be seen by the RDW and they will visually inspect and approve it if it's done properly.
If I get the motor mounted I will have it inspected asap (before regulations might change), no need for the car to be running, having a firewall or whatever, they'll only check the engine and how it's mounted.
If I want to get it on the road again (now it's suspended) it needs APK (annual check) where they'll check everything from tire profile till brake balance, structural integrity etc.
 
Nice project! Awesome to see the 242s in the Netherlands are in hands of enthusiasts.
I'd stick to the stock turbo manifold setup or put 2 slightly bigger turbos on it to preserve quick spooling.

Btw there are mounts available from KL Racing (?) that make a whiteblock a drop in engine

Need to continue on my 242, also wanted to do a b6xxx engine + turbo and m90 but changed my mind (again....)
 
Thanks guys. I will keep the stock turbos at first. If I were to change them it would be for a custom HX50 I think, but honestly I think the two little guys are best for my application. Maybe if I take it out for drag racing more often it would make more sense to put bigger turbo(s).

I saw the KL mounts but they would still require some modification and they're quite expensive.
I also want to put them as far out as possible for more stability. I'll fab something up :)
 
Someone on FB asked about the T6 starter being compatible with the 850 flywheel, so I checked to help him out, and not in the last place to help myself :)

I didn't realize the starter ring would differ in size, but they do. 850 SMF vs T6 auto flex plate.







The measurement is quite rough, didn't exactly align them.

I measured (ballparked) both the 960 and T6 starter and it seems the 960 starter makes up for the difference perfectly.
Otherwise I have some 850 starters as well somewhere, won't be a problem.





The 960 starter is about 3mm more outward.
 
Made brackets for the engine mounts. I ordered some cheap rubber mounts (both pass side) from Rockauto, I'll eventually go with diesel or poly.
I'll make some solid ones first to be sure of absolute correct fitment.
I'll also add a torque arm, still gotta figure out where.

Machined recesses to access the bolts, and for water drainage.






Welded in a tube for steering shaft clearance. I bought a power rack a while ago which is a lot sleaker than the manual rack, so it will clear easily.




Pizza and chocolate milk is a man's shop fuel right?




The passenger side is going to be welded (now just spotted for fitment), drivers side is bolted onto the original boltholes (even used the studs I pressed out of the old mounts :))




Made plates for the engine, hope to make the engine fit later this or next week.

 
I might better start a 940 daily topic.. had some issues with it not running properly, sweetish smell, lots of steam coming from the exhaust manifold and within a couple of days the matching ripped exhaust gasket noise.
So with the little time I have I pulled the engine (suspect HG but also headwork to be done with 500K kms) and swapped a fresher one (244K).
Only I didn't know the manifold was cracked, so I'm still looking for one, hope to pick one up tomorrow and meanwhile fabricate a new one myself till the temporary one fails. I called every Volvo guy in the country but they all laughed at me trying to find an uncracked one..



Due to the blown HG the crack presumably got bigger faster.



Fresh engine



But on the bright side, we got a new lathe for dirt cheap. It's covered in gunk but after a thorough cleaning all the tracks and beds look almost new :cool:

IMG_8851 by Easy Rosay, on Flickr
 
Took the engine out couple of times, did some other stuff here and there on the car and other ones, yada yada.

Last couple of days I built the motor mounts and trans mount, tried to figure out where the shifter goes, some measuring concerning the (still to obtain) radiator and IC, etc.



Still have to put in the power rack, but that will clear the motor mount much better than the manual.









To make the M90 fit the trans member was hardly a challenge, I used the center pair of mounting holes in the frame rails and whipped up some plates, a tube and some holes and welded it in place, want way easier than expected :)



I thought I wanted to shorten the shifter linkage but after some test fitting and sitting I decided not to. I'm pretty tall so the seat will be quite far back as well (I even lenghten most seat rails usually :))
It will take quite some modding though to clear the hand brake better and fit the transmission tunnel.

I used diesel motor mounts by the way, and a 940 front control arm bushing for the transmission support.

Theoretically I could go to the RDW (DMV) to have the 6 cylinder inspected and assigned to the car, so that's one major to do for this summer.
 
I have the idea to put the engine back as far as possible, (maybe weld a wheel barrow in the firewall)

Gale Banks lives!
 
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