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1995 940 turbo *longterm* daily driver

Also, how important is it to rig up some sort of bracket for the downpipe to bolt to the bellhousing(?). I assume there was some sort of bracket there at some point by the looks of the factory down pipe. Does it matter auto/manual tranny for the bracket?
 
soclosenotnear said:
Also, how important is it to rig up some sort of bracket for the downpipe to bolt to the bellhousing(?). I assume there was some sort of bracket there at some point by the looks of the factory down pipe. Does it matter auto/manual tranny for the bracket?
Click to expand...

I had a lostartof downpipe on my 940, not v-band clamp just a normal conical flange and at some point I had to have it repaired because I didn't use the bracket on the bellhousing and it cracked around the flange. If I were to do it again I would certainly figure our how to brace it, YMMV.
 
Yes sir, use both the "hoop strap" that bolts to the bolt/stud right where your DP passes by the BH. Also I recommend the trans rear support, cantilevered from the back of the cross member. I've never seen a manual 7/9 series more mount. You might check with Simon Babbs as he has had many a stick 7 series.
 
I believe the lack of the OE supports for the DP is the leading reason TB folks are convinced that the 8mm studs which attach the turbine to the intake must be "upsized to 10mm". Of course, when you cantilever the mass of the DP, plus half the weight of the CAT to those 4 studs, twisting each time the suspension travels..... another TB myth born.....

After 20K miles of DD service and 5 years, my 8mm studs were all tight and hanging just fine. Look up the tensile "yield" of an 8mm stud.
 
Neither mine, nor my brother's 90 turbo wagon had this brace installed. They were both previously owned by turbobrickers though, haha. I am more than convinced. And I believe your theory could be right.

I still have to port the straight flange housing out to as close to 3" as I'm comfortable with. My buddy is supposed to come weld up the rest of my exhaust later this week, so I hope to have it buttoned back up very soon.

While I was reading last night, I came across an article from a Garrett turbos engineer.

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122417

Among other things, he makes me feel like I should really be 3" to the back. But I hate to take off this nice tme system. I'm using a reducer that actually necks down to less than 2 1/2". He mentions the further back the reduction is, the better, and it is right before the tme system starts. But still, I am officially putting the rest of a 3" exhaust system on "the list", as money/priorities allow.
 
If it makes you feel any better, I'm planning to run exactly what you have.... a 3" DP to the 3" high flow CAT (sorry to see you are removing yours, I won't do that..... I've got 3 grandchildren). Will have my local exhaust guy custom fab a reducing pipe from the exit of CAT to the TME inlet.

TME specs online claim like a 70% reduction in back pressure with their system behind a stock CAT. I think the OEM DP and CAT are the largest restrictions in the system. Diminishing gains from the CAT back IMO.......
 
I worked on opening the exhaust outlet as much as comfortably possible. This is what about 3 hours with a puny Craftsman drill and some nice bits gets ya.

From this:

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/wt7AUmn' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/wt7AUmnl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>


To this:

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/CxclFKm' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/CxclFKml.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>


It's probably hard to see in the pictures but it is much more open. Yes, I could have gone wider probably all around, but it's the best compromise for me. I also opened up the inlet at the manifold a good bit also.

My friend finished up the downpipe. I'm very satisfied for how it came out with my crappy wire feed welder. Here's some action shots.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/y01wILo' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/y01wILol.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/5z5Sshu' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/5z5Sshul.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

The test drive was pretty rewarding although I didn't push it too hard for the computer's sake. A spark plug wire fell off; that was scary. Also, it's now making much more boost so I need to adjust that. But it spools much more quickly. It sounds a little more throaty but still very quiet. No crazy rattles or anything, although I've still got to make a brace.

And the other awesome thing about this is I now have a working wideband. Once lh2.4 settles in, I can start evaluating the need for injectors. And subsequently, more boost.
 
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That down pipe doesn't look too bad, as long as its functional. Did you open up the wastegate port? If you haven't, might as well.
 
white855T said:
That down pipe doesn't look too bad, as long as its functional. Did you open up the wastegate port? If you haven't, might as well.
Click to expand...

It seems fine so far. V band on both ends for ease. I may add a flex section some day if a brace doesn't satisfy me.

I did not open the wastegate port after hearing mixed reviews on the need. I should have smoothed the ramp out if nothing else but didn't. Oh well, it'll come apart again someday. Hopefully I can just drive for a little while.
 
soclosenotnear said:
Yaaaassssss

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/khbvIz7' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/khbvIz7l.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

Than you Duder for making these readily available and getting them to the peoples. I know they were hard to come by for a period of time.
Click to expand...

You got it man. It's been fun so far. And if you notice, these boards are now Straight Outta Compton, by way of Sweden. Street credz.

Your turbine housing porting looks good. Have you ported the wastegate inlet, between the main gas passage and wastegate valve? As you open up the housing outlet, and reduce exhaust restriction downstream (like with a nice 3" system), it becomes more and more important to increase the choke flow of the wastegate valve itself. Otherwise you risk boost creep at higher loads and engine speeds.
 
Duder said:
Your turbine housing porting looks good. Have you ported the wastegate inlet, between the main gas passage and wastegate valve? As you open up the housing outlet, and reduce exhaust restriction downstream (like with a nice 3" system), it becomes more and more important to increase the choke flow of the wastegate valve itself. Otherwise you risk boost creep at higher loads and engine speeds.
Click to expand...

What is your recommendation for porting the WG passage? I've heard within 1mm of the actual flapper OD; what I don't care for is the play in the WG swing lever is not a precision mechanism with almost +/- 1mm in the vertical axis. I posted a thread in Performance on this topic and the concensus was to replace the actuator with a Kinugawa so it would fully open the gate.
 
I spent my first few free minutes in a while today adjusting the shift lockout gate thing so first and second were a little easier to get into.

I also adjusted the boost controller to exactly the 20 psi I want. Having a wideband now is so nice. The first couple pulls in second had AFR in the 14s. Not good. I'm now looking into injectors. Had to back the boost back down.
 
soclosenotnear said:
I also adjusted the boost controller to exactly the 20 psi I want. Having a wideband now is so nice. The first couple pulls in second had AFR in the 14s. Not good. I'm now looking into injectors. Had to back the boost back down.
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I'd suggest you back that boost down to 10~12 PSI max, until the fueling is resolved.

As LINUXMAN said, who's chips do you have? I don't recall if you are running a 012 3" AMM or the stocker. If you are running TLAO chips, I've read plenty of reports of folks running 42 to 46 # injectors with the big 012 AMM. The instrument in the AMM is reportedly identical to the one in the 016, but the larger diameter slows the speed of the incoming air, and the fueling tables are "fooled" by this input to LH2.4

Your target AFRs under boost would be ~12 for safety of your pistons/rods. I've got a set of CFI injectors, the 46# version, which were cleaned & flowed before purchase. These are low Z and will work with the stock system. LMK if interested, and I'll pass them on for what I've got in them. IF you are still running the 016 then you've got a conundrum on your hands......:roll:
 
DET17 said:
I'd suggest you back that boost down to 10~12 PSI max, until the fueling is resolved.

As LINUXMAN said, who's chips do you have? I don't recall if you are running a 012 3" AMM or the stocker. If you are running TLAO chips, I've read plenty of reports of folks running 42 to 46 # injectors with the big 012 AMM. The instrument in the AMM is reportedly identical to the one in the 016, but the larger diameter slows the speed of the incoming air, and the fueling tables are "fooled" by this input to LH2.4

Your target AFRs under boost would be ~12 for safety of your pistons/rods. I've got a set of CFI injectors, the 46# version, which were cleaned & flowed before purchase. These are low Z and will work with the stock system. LMK if interested, and I'll pass them on for what I've got in them. IF you are still running the 016 then you've got a conundrum on your hands......:roll:
Click to expand...

I backed the boost down as soon as I got back from my test drive. But I haven't driven again to see how much lower it is. I'll work it out to have a reasonable AFR.

I'm embarrassed to admit I have no idea what chips I'm running as I've never had the boxes out of the car. Both of the previous owners told me they are chipped, plus a higher rev limit is what I'm basing my assumption off of. I'll be converting to wasted spark shortly, as you know, so ill have them open before long regardless.

I do not have a 3" amm and don't want one unless I have to. Im going to figure out what injectors are best for what I'm running and go from there. I kind of figured I'd need more fuel at this point.
 
I ran the 016 2.5" AMM for 5 years, and lived with WOT AFRs of around 10~10.5. So long as you retain the 016, I don't think you will do much better with larger injectors. i ran TLAO 6500 RPM chips in my Jetronic ECU, along with the Buchkaspark wasted spark and a stock EZK.

From what I've learned, you won't be able to get decent WOT AFRs until you upgrade to the 3" AMM. I ran the brown tops for almost 4 years and the listed AFRs were the result at around 16 PSI. In the last year before I tore it down for the "last hurrah" upgrades, I put the stock green injectors back in, and the AFRs went back to around 12 under WOT conditions. The danger, is that you are damn NEAR out of injector at that point. If the green tops give out on you, then you could easily destroy your engine, something I doubt would make the wife happy! The guy who posted in your "once and done" thread might have a good compromise in the meantime. Run the suggested 36# injectors, keep the boost down around 12ish, and you might get decent WOT AFRs.

From what I've learned about LH2.4, I don't think there is a safe way to elevate to these 250HP+ power levels with the stock AMM. Read thru the original TLAO chip thread and you'll see repeatedly that folks had to upgrade to a 3" AMM to fool the chips and ECU.
 
<a href='http://i.imgur.com/xpUO98f' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/xpUO98fl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>


I opened up my ezk today to start the transition to a wasted spark setup. But is this a factory chip or does anyone recognize it?
 
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