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Seeking Mechanical Guidance of Wise Volvo Wizard (940, lots of issues)

There could be an issue with a couple things with that temp gauge.

Step 1 would be to pull the codes and see what's what. Get clean proper fluids in the motor, and check for good air fuel and spark.
 
EivlEvo said:
There could be an issue with a couple things with that temp gauge.

Step 1 would be to pull the codes and see what's what. Get clean proper fluids in the motor, and check for good air fuel and spark.
Click to expand...

Alright. Will be doing that in about two hours. However, I got a fork in the road here that I'm sure you can help me with. At this point with my situation, what would be the pros and cons for an engine switch? And if I went ahead with it, would it be worth it to put in a v6 Ford or Chevy motor like I keep hearing about? And also, thanks a whole lot for all your help so far, I really appreciate it.
 
OutInWestPalm said:
Alright. Will be doing that in about two hours. However, I got a fork in the road here that I'm sure you can help me with. At this point with my situation, what would be the pros and cons for an engine switch? And if I went ahead with it, would it be worth it to put in a v6 Ford or Chevy motor like I keep hearing about? And also, thanks a whole lot for all your help so far, I really appreciate it.
Click to expand...

Again... you need to see what the 9 series guys say. It's the same motor though. B230F.

If you were swapping motors the benefit is that you get another motor that you know nothing about. Sort of a square zero where this motor might be at a square -5.

You misread about the Ford/GM swaps. They're swapping in V8's. Benefit there is you get a big motor. The Ford 302 probably being most common/straightforward.

If it makes you feel any better, I'm on my third Volvo. The one I just built I bought for $300 with a blown headgasket. It ended up being a squirter motor (which you may also have). Yanked the head, did all the things, added the turbo, and now it's pretty dang quick for a Volvo 245.

Pro's and con's in all the columns though. Figuring out why this motor is wonky is a good start.

Pull the codes, check the basics. Come back equipped with a bit more info on the situation and you'll be better equipped to make the decision.

But doing a motor swap in a Volvo isn't hard. There's an 800hp 9 series in the FS forum with a 2JZ in it for $20k if you'd like to pay to play.
 
I didn't read all of this thread but, flipping though your pictures, it looks like the lower bushing in the sway bar link is shot. Picture #3: http://i.imgur.com/yofnZPz.jpg

If you're lucky, this might be the source of the suspension clang and is cheap+easy to replace compared to the other control arm bushings. Search for something like "Sway Bar Link" or "Stabilizer Bar Link" at fcpeuro.com or rockauto.com. Roughly $10 for a link kit, or less for just the rubber bushings.
 
EivlEvo said:
Again... you need to see what the 9 series guys say. It's the same motor though. B230F.

If you were swapping motors the benefit is that you get another motor that you know nothing about. Sort of a square zero where this motor might be at a square -5.

You misread about the Ford/GM swaps. They're swapping in V8's. Benefit there is you get a big motor. The Ford 302 probably being most common/straightforward.

If it makes you feel any better, I'm on my third Volvo. The one I just built I bought for $300 with a blown headgasket. It ended up being a squirter motor (which you may also have). Yanked the head, did all the things, added the turbo, and now it's pretty dang quick for a Volvo 245.

Pro's and con's in all the columns though. Figuring out why this motor is wonky is a good start.

Pull the codes, check the basics. Come back equipped with a bit more info on the situation and you'll be better equipped to make the decision.

But doing a motor swap in a Volvo isn't hard. There's an 800hp 9 series in the FS forum with a 2JZ in it for $20k if you'd like to pay to play.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I knew it was a V8, I have no clue why I said V6. Must have had something on my mind.
I'll message you when I get more info. It seems you've done to yours exactly what I want to do to mine.
And 20k? If I had 20k these issues would be gone! Haha. And besides, pay to play isn't my style. I'm actually really excited with where I wanna take this car despite its current condition.
 
bobxyz said:
I didn't read all of this thread but, flipping though your pictures, it looks like the lower bushing in the sway bar link is shot. Picture #3: http://i.imgur.com/yofnZPz.jpg

If you're lucky, this might be the source of the suspension clang and is cheap+easy to replace compared to the other control arm bushings. Search for something like "Sway Bar Link" or "Stabilizer Bar Link" at fcpeuro.com or rockauto.com. Roughly $10 for a link kit, or less for just the rubber bushings.
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Cool! I'll look into it right now. If that's the cheapest route, I guess it'd be a good trouble shoot. But maybe not without looking into it too much. Maybe more pictures would help. I'm sorry I don't have all this info, this weekend is gonna be the first time I'm really gonna get into it.
 
Looks like crappy rusty water in the coolant bottle, you from a warm climate? Somebody probably just had water in there and it's rusty no biggie drain and change
 
freevolvos said:
Looks like crappy rusty water in the coolant bottle, you from a warm climate? Somebody probably just had water in there and it's rusty no biggie drain and change
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This actually makes a ton of sense... I never even think of this being from up north where its suicide to run straight water. So that's a plus...

I'd still flush it out pretty good.
 
freevolvos said:
Looks like crappy rusty water in the coolant bottle, you from a warm climate? Somebody probably just had water in there and it's rusty no biggie drain and change
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Wow, nice observation. Don't know why I didn't think of it. But yea, I'm OutInWestPalm, South Florida! The previous owner seems like the type to just throw water in and as I previously mentioned, the car had sat around for about 3 years until about a month ago.
 
Ahhhh lol out on palm west lol,sorry I'm a little slow. I've dealt a lot with cracked antique engine blocks and sometimes fine cracks will rust shut off you run water for the summer
 
Otto Mattik said:
Can't be 100% certain in a photo, but oil the looks a bit muddy ?
Curious, what's happening on your project ?
Click to expand...

Well I woke up a little late but I'll be getting into it today. Slapping some brake pads on it to push back the rotor issue and draining the oil/changing oil filter. Will post photos of result and whatever nightmare oozes out.
 
http://imgur.com/a/21JOI

Will be posting interesting developments here. So far, seems a wheel has ground down the strut. Never seen this before
Got the tires balanced a week ago and started hearing metal on metal that I THOUGHT was the brake pads and rotors. Turns out it may just be the wheel...
 
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OutInWestPalm said:
http://imgur.com/a/21JOI

Will be posting interesting developments here. So far, seems a wheel has ground down the strut. Never seen this before
Got the tires balanced a week ago and started hearing metal on metal that I THOUGHT was the brake pads and rotors. Turns out it may just be the wheel...
Click to expand...

Nice. What wheels are/were on it? Perhaps a misplaced wheel weight... otherwise I'd have to think the car has some suspension component loose other than that swaybar end link.
 
EivlEvo said:
Nice. What wheels are/were on it? Perhaps a misplaced wheel weight... otherwise I'd have to think the car has some suspension component loose other than that swaybar end link.
Click to expand...

There appears to be absolutely no wear on the wheel or anything on it. In hindisight though, when he rotated the tires, there was a crazy metal grinding noise which gave away the fact that the wheel was from a different vehicle.
 
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