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Weber DCOE Fuel pump and FPR?

MikeJr.

Gloss Boss
300+ Club
Joined
Oct 10, 2003
Location
Acworth, GA 30102
I just got a new set of Weber DCOE 45s for my 122, and I wanted to know what is the best fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator set up.

Initially I will be running them on my stock b18, but I am building a B20 on a stand that'll be cam'ed and have some headwork done. Both will be mainly for street use.

Will my stock mechanical pump be enough for the stock b18 set up, or should I go directly to an electric pump?
 
I just got a new set of Weber DCOE 45s for my 122, and I wanted to know what is the best fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator set up.

Initially I will be running them on my stock b18, but I am building a B20 on a stand that'll be cam'ed and have some headwork done. Both will be mainly for street use.

Will my stock mechanical pump be enough for the stock b18 set up, or should I go directly to an electric pump?

Oh, an easy one.
FAC-480532.JPG


FPR009_lge.jpg
 
My DCOE's never seemed happy with the mechanical pump that was used with the SU's. I'm not sure why. They weren't overflowing (that I noticed), but they just seemed pretty erratic.

Plus the float bowls on the DCOE's seemed like they'd evaporate out a bit more than the SU's ever did - bigger vent, plus heat soaking from the exhaust after shutdown? Either way, it sometimes took more cranking to get them going when it had sat for a while.

On the PV I stuck a Holley blue fuel pump in the back by the tank, with a pre filter because my tank has a habit of sending rust particles along with the fuel. Then I put some fairly cheap pressure regulator up in the engine compartment. I forget the brand but it's some silver alloy disc looking thing with a big knob on it, looks about like this:
9710.jpg


I keep that set a 2.5 psi, works fine. The carbs seem happier, and if the car happens to sit around for a while, the electric pump will fill the bowls in a second or so before you even crank instead of cranking it for a while waiting for the mechanical pump to refill them.
 
The pump should be easy, but the second is a "Filter King."

They make a combinaiton glass bowl filter and regulator too. Has the added benefit of looking cool, and thus, making the car faster.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Malpassi-Fi...ator-and-Gauge-clear-glass-bowl-/110622432307


Bonus points to you!
NAPA stores have the pumps in stock often.. I use 2 cause I like to drive home.

There are also these "FISPA" filters
s-l300.jpg



I use the ones off Alfa V6 Fool-infected..aka "controlled drip"
Filter is about Volvo oil filter size..and has nifty-keen-o presssure sender on the outlet side..You can use that to shut down pumps on stall.
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My DCOE's never seemed happy with the mechanical pump that was used with the SU's. I'm not sure why. They weren't overflowing (that I noticed), but they just seemed pretty erratic.

Plus the float bowls on the DCOE's seemed like they'd evaporate out a bit more than the SU's ever did - bigger vent, plus heat soaking from the exhaust after shutdown? Either way, it sometimes took more cranking to get them going when it had sat for a while.

On the PV I stuck a Holley blue fuel pump in the back by the tank, with a pre filter because my tank has a habit of sending rust particles along with the fuel. Then I put some fairly cheap pressure regulator up in the engine compartment. I forget the brand but it's some silver alloy disc looking thing with a big knob on it, looks about like this:

I keep that set a 2.5 psi, works fine. The carbs seem happier, and if the car happens to sit around for a while, the electric pump will fill the bowls in a second or so before you even crank instead of cranking it for a while waiting for the mechanical pump to refill them.

Ugh..

On YOUR car I betcha you'r be happier with moar fool pressure.. I can quote where Ford says so..2.5---man you must never run that hard...

Those die-cast things are NOTORIOUS for being grossly inaccurate.
 
I just gently idle the PV to the liquor store and back each Sunday. (heh)

Yeah, my regulator is pretty junky, I'm intrigued by that combo filter/regulator prop posted up there.

The PV makes about 170-ish WHP, based on 1/4 mile times, and I've done some 'top speed' pulls on it where my foot was down all the way for a sustained period of time, and it never ran out of fuel. I think the regulator will move a lot of fuel when the floats open and the pressure drops.
 
I'm the opposite of JohnMC in terms of experience. I just pulled and sold my 45's and switched to 40's but I'm at a much higher altitude than Acworth/Atlanta.

I did the electrical fuel pump with no regulator approach and that was a mess. I then did the Mr Gasket regulator and electrical fuel pump and that was also messing up. Re-jetted the carbs and still couldn't get my B20 to play nice with the set up. Finally went back to a mechanical fuel pump and it was 7th heaven after that.

Only downside to DCOE's is that they require regular adjustments to stay in sync. Get familiar with tuning them yourself, it will make a world of difference. But it does wonders to a well built B20, it makes for a fun Amazon!
 
Not to hi-jack, that Filter king looks like it'd solve all my problems. It'll work for a setup running say... dual Solex 44PA1s? Do I eliminate the return in the system, or does that one have a return? I can't quite tell.
 
Use what ever pump you like, as long as it's reliable and pumps enough volume. My go to pump for DCOE's used to be the Competition Service mechanical pump because it has threaded holes so you can use AN fittings or hose barbs. You can find them on Penta B30's (AQ165-170), but they're usually in rough condition. Rebuild kits are available if you do find one.

CompetitionFuelPump1.jpg


A good pressure regulator is important as Webers require only 2?-3psi. Any more than that and you'll push fuel past the float valves. I like the Holley low pressure regulator because of the low cost, dual outlets and because it also has threaded holes for your choice of fittings.

CompetitionFuelPump2.jpg
 
Here is my current setup using a Filter King regulator with separate pressure guage for dual DCOEs on a B20.


<a href="http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/1971Gold142/media/VolvoRegGuage1_zpsvvvra174.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj565/1971Gold142/VolvoRegGuage1_zpsvvvra174.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo VolvoRegGuage1_zpsvvvra174.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/1971Gold142/media/VolvoGuage_zpsddqztp8h.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/jj565/1971Gold142/VolvoGuage_zpsddqztp8h.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo VolvoGuage_zpsddqztp8h.jpg"/></a>
 
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