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240 Speedometer shuts off every now and then along with the odometer.

GeneralBurrito

GeneralBurrito

Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2017
Location
California
So almost every time I drive, the speedo needle would just drop to 0 and I noticed a few days ago that the odometer/trip meter weren't counting miles as well when the speedo drops. Would it have something to do with the L-plug that connects to the little circuit board behind the cluster or something power related? Every other cluster works perfectly except for the speedo. It would start working again sometimes by itself, with a small tap on the dash board, or sometimes with a few hard smacks. It's getting pretty annoying.
 
The wires from the diff where they enter the body a prone to breaking.
 
Diff wiring going south, bad/cold solder joints on the board, L shaped connectors getting loose, lots of things to start diagnosing for intermittent speedo operation.
 
Uncleknucklez said:
Diff wiring going south, bad/cold solder joints on the board, L shaped connectors getting loose, lots of things to start diagnosing for intermittent speedo operation.
Click to expand...

The solder looks pretty clean, my dad even inspected them up close and he though they were fine too. I checked the diff wire and the ones going into the plug we're stripped, I separated the wires so they don't touch and wrapped them up with e-tape. I think it could be the L shaped plug, I'll try adjusting the connectors for a tighter clamp in the circuit board and see how it goes tomorrow. That back plate shown in the link above has me interested too.
 
The tabs are designed to break when it's removed. If you're really careful, you may be able to unbend them enough to get it off without breaking them.
 
The late 240 speedometer is set up to accept the clip, so I imagine it's supposed to have it.

You've probably never come across a cluster that hasn't been removed before.
 
No, the tabs on the clip fit into the rectangular holes in the circuit board. It just snaps into place.

240SpeedometerConnector.jpg
 
So I squeezed together each connection in the L shaped plug and it holds on to the circuit board tighter, I aslo secured the plug in place as much as I can with some electrical tape, but it still has intermittent power cuts. It seems to be somewhere in the dash because just a simple tap cuts the power, while I have to smack the crap out of the dash to get it going again. Could loose/finely cracked solder be the culprit?
 
GeneralBurrito said:
The solder looks pretty clean, my dad even inspected them up close and he though they were fine too. I checked the diff wire and the ones going into the plug we're stripped, I separated the wires so they don't touch and wrapped them up with e-tape. I think it could be the L shaped plug, I'll try adjusting the connectors for a tighter clamp in the circuit board and see how it goes tomorrow. That back plate shown in the link above has me interested too.
Click to expand...

Gonna wanna do a proper fix on that diff wiring before you can rule it out. It's accessible up top through the gas tank hatch (even easier if you have a wagon), so just splice it back and put a new connector on it. There are a couple places to rob them from parts cars, though you're better off buying new wiring with the proper boots for the bullet connectors.

I just went through this. The wiring doesn't have to be broken to make it work like sh1t, and smacking the dash did affect things for whatever reason, even though the diff wiring was the issue. The wires don't just break, they corrode up the length of it, so electrical tape is not a great fix.

It's the same connector as the side marker lights:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-side-marker-light-assembly-all-amber-1-1-1
 
XxJenoxX said:
Gonna wanna do a proper fix on that diff wiring before you can rule it out. It's accessible up top through the gas tank hatch (even easier if you have a wagon), so just splice it back and put a new connector on it. There are a couple places to rob them from parts cars, though you're better off buying new wiring with the proper boots for the bullet connectors.

I just went through this. The wiring doesn't have to be broken to make it work like sh1t, and smacking the dash did affect things for whatever reason, even though the diff wiring was the issue. The wires don't just break, they corrode up the length of it, so electrical tape is not a great fix.

It's the same connector as the side marker lights:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-side-marker-light-assembly-all-amber-1-1-1
Click to expand...

This sounds promising. I have a sedan, but I think I know where the little box the diff wiring goes into, the one that goes up the left side of the trunk right? So I'll just have to get that new wiring set and replace the wiring up to the box?
 
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