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Massive work starting tomorrow...

klr142

klr142

Turbo, what?
Joined
May 7, 2004
Location
OR
It's going to be nuts. Pat's taking my car to work tomorrow because he gets out of work at 2, while I stay until 5, so he can get a head start on things. We're swapping front subframes, and that's just the small part. During this, we're installing the oil pan, poly control arm bushings for the front, poly torque rod bushings in the rear, new springs(only 2 coils cut from the front, and 2 coils from WAGON rear springs in the back), new ball joints, new tie rod ends, different steering rack, new motor mounts, new tranny mounts, new strut mounts, SS brake lines, and a crank scraper. It might not sound like too much, but we're going to have to swap stuff from one subframe to the other, and all the installation of the other stuff, it's going to be a while. Oye. Then also some hammer "surgery" on the rear fenders to make way for 235/45-17 rubber.

A couple pictures of stuff...
IMG_4281.sized.jpg

IMG_4326_001.sized.jpg

IMG_4329.sized.jpg

IMG_4330.sized.jpg

IMG_4334.sized.jpg

IMG_4336.sized.jpg


No, I didn't do the welding... That's an O2 bung btw, anyone think that'll work pretty well? I sure hope so!

Bigger pictures here:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/MY244?page=3

I'll get some more pictures tomorrow of the progress.
 
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rice killer said:
wtf is a crank scraper.....and why do you need such wide tires, are you goin turbo?
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1. 235s are skinny.
2. No, he just put that bung in his oil pan for ****s and giggles.
 
Poik said:
1. 235s are skinny.
2. No, he just put that bung in his oil pan for ****s and giggles.
Click to expand...

[Butthead] huhu, he said bung [/Butthead]

I do like that. I will be copying this next week.
 
Poik said:
1. 235s are skinny.
2. No, he just put that bung in his oil pan for ****s and giggles.
Click to expand...
:rofl:

Like I explained on AIM, the tires are going to CURRENTLY be for handling and braking improvements. Massive improvements. Not to mention the BLING! factor.

Now to find a plug for it. Maybe just an old O2 sensor!? We'll see tomorrow. I'll look through what we have at work to plug it with.

YLD244, the crank scraper is one of those many little things you can do to your engine that give you a .001% improvement, that can add up to be a .01% improvement if you do enough things. I'm hoping for more than just that much of an improvement, but we shall see. It might also help keep more oil in the pan while going around long hard sweepers, instead of letting it ride up the side of the block. The scraper's main purpose is to reduce the oil "windage" that spins around the crank.

Now, if only I knew what all those little screws/nuts are for on the scraper...
 
why such a random ass thread size? 18x1.5 i think, seems like a good AN fitting or even NPT fitting would have made tons more sense, but whatever floats your boat.


good luck on the work, im hoping i get the chance soon to say i have all that to do...
 
the oil pan looks really nice...I'm sure the fitting is high enough as my fitting is about the same height and i have no problems
 
klr142 said:
Now, if only I knew what all those little screws/nuts are for on the scraper...
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I posted this in someone else's earlier thread about the crank scrapers. The extra nuts and threaded posts are for the attachment of a windage tray (which has yet to be designed for the redblock). Leave them on, make sure they're snug. If you remove the nuts there is a slight chance that the threaded posts that are pressed into the scraper could fall out into the pan. Don't want that.
 
coldfusion21 said:
why such a random ass thread size? 18x1.5 i think, seems like a good AN fitting or even NPT fitting would have made tons more sense, but whatever floats your boat.
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Because it is what we had to work with without me going somewhere and ordering something specific, and cheap. He just had them in his shop, so because of it's size, we figured it's good nuff. It's 14x1.25 I think(nvm, I don't think that), but we can just get an adapter to use an AN fitting(should be able to anyway, make that, BETTER be able to).

Alex, that should be more than high enough. You can't really make it ANY higher than that without getting into the curvature of the top of the pan where it flattens out for bolting onto the block. Not only that, but you wouldn't be able to get in between there to weld at the top... John(the Aspirator) and others have had ones lower than this without problems. So, I better be damn good. :-D

pwschuh said:
I posted this in someone else's earlier thread about the crank scrapers. The extra nuts and threaded posts are for the attachment of a windage tray (which has yet to be designed for the redblock). Leave them on, make sure they're snug. If you remove the nuts there is a slight chance that the threaded posts that are pressed into the scraper could fall out into the pan. Don't want that.
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Thanks for the heads up Paul, much appreciated, I think I do remember you posting that. Should I screw them the rest of the way up the posts? Or just leave them as they are, as long as the threads are fully into the locking material of the nuts?
 
klr142 said:
Should I screw them the rest of the way up the posts? Or just leave them as they are, as long as the threads are fully into the locking material of the nuts?
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I screwed mine down tight and threw some penetrating thread locker on them. Do whatever allows you to sleep well at night.
 
I hate to be the guy to say it after all that work, but an O2 sensor really shouldn't be mounted with that level of exposure to oil, nevermind the fact that it'll be subject to hardly any exhaust gases.

That said, nice work on making it professional. I like how it'll probably actually work.
 
isaac said:
That said, nice work on making it professional.
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+1 nice looking welds. I wish mine looked like that.

The return will be just fine. My bung is another inch and a half lower than that... in fact, it's below the leve of oil in the pan. That being said, I have never had any smoking problems in over a year using it.

The way you have it set up, the oil drains on top of the baffle which will then drain back into the pan. The level of he oil in the pan itself is just about at the bottom portion of the baffle, so you've chosen the best place in the pan to put the return. It'll work just fine.

kudos on some nice work.

Mike
 
I might stop by the V shop after work today and see how things are going for ya. maybe even lend a hand. -slobodan
 
swedefiend said:
[Butthead] huhu, he said bung [/Butthead]

I do like that. I will be copying this next week.
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Kyle needs TP for his bunghole! DO NOT MAKE HIS BUNGHOLE ANGRY!
 
pwschuh said:
I screwed mine down tight and threw some penetrating thread locker on them. Do whatever allows you to sleep well at night.
Click to expand...
Right on. For sealing, did you just use RTV between the scraper and the block? And then a regular gasket between the pan and the scraper? Did you let the scraper solidify up and in place before you put the pan on? Pat was considering just doing both things at once, with gaskets on both sides, AND RTV...

(currently taking a break from cleaning and painting things, reassembly takes place tomorrow)
 
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