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AQ130 (B20) rebuild for a 122

Lots of thinking to do now haha. Maybe the turbo kit would be happier on some old v8

...... In a 122. Haha only kidding. This ride is too original for me to chop anything. Bolt of stuff is fine because it can always be in-bolted.
 
Really, its kinda funny that I can keep up with some pretty quick cars. I run out of steam at 1000ft and 80-85mph but thats just gearing. Wagons with 4.56 rear and 4 gears will do that. Recently after upping from 7-12psi I was able to pull pretty well on a 5.0 mustang from 20-80 mph, then he grabbed 4th and I had no more gears
 
sspony said:
Here's a thread that has some decent pictures showing how the system works.

http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=24542
Click to expand...

I had one of those on a 350 Corvette. Its been a long time and I can't remember much about it. If my memory serves, I was running about 8PSI. I did not have it on the car for long as a tree got in my way.

One issue that I had was the car overheating very quickly. I could mat it through the first three gears, but by the time I got to fourth it was creeping up to the red zone. No intercooler, just a dumb kid and not a lot was known about turbos back then, especially up here in the sticks. I never got things sorted before I wrecked the car.
 
ME II said:
I had one of those on a 350 Corvette. Its been a long time and I can't remember much about it. If my memory serves, I was running about 8PSI. I did not have it on the car for long as a tree got in my way.

One issue that I had was the car overheating very quickly. I could mat it through the first three gears, but by the time I got to fourth it was creeping up to the red zone. No intercooler, just a dumb kid and not a lot was known about turbos back then, especially up here in the sticks. I never got things sorted before I wrecked the car.
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I have also found that the increased temp from the turbo needs better cooling capacity. Although it could just have been that my factory radiator was 50 years old and may not have ever been cleaned/boiled ever.:lol:

I would say that doing pre-turbo water meth or even post turbo water meth injection would allow for more boost, and better overall function. Then add in a new aluminum radiator with, say a 14" fan ( like I might just have for sale shortly) and you will on the way to a good daily setup.
 
cwdodson88 said:
I'd say that a standard b20 produces about 90 HP, maybe 100, each # of boost will gain you 7-10% with good tuning, so carb, mech timing control, probably more like 5% per #... going off my 3 pocket dyno apps, 0-60 and 1/8th mile times, I'm only seeing like 180 at the wheels tops, heavily ported, FI, and that was at 10-12psi... so thats like 100% over stock on the b18 bottom end, but its been bored .040, b20 head thats ported with larger exhaust valves, then timing control and fuel control via MS..
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I think it's impossible to guess what kind of output a theoretical engine with "porting" and a "good cam" might actually produce. Just a loose comparison -- I have a B20 that's .040" over, with standard valves, average porting, a recurved distributor without any timing control, no fuel control other than a single DCOE Weber, and it dynoed 176 at the rear wheels with a leaking manifold gasket at 4 psi.

As you know, boost pressure measures resistance to boost more than actual flow through the engine in cfm. It doesn't really offer an apples to apples metric.

Best,

Cameron
Portland
 
Well I can get a hold of the whole turbo kit for $200. Then I would just need to fab the other parts which is more labor then money. Probably can get a decent carb for $200.

So the question is, can I hit 150hp for $500?
 
sspony said:
Well I can get a hold of the whole turbo kit for $200. Then I would just need to fab the other parts which is more labor then money. Probably can get a decent carb for $200.

So the question is, can I hit 150hp for $500?
Click to expand...

A wideband may be a good investment. Detonation insurance. Not to mention it takes the guesswork out of tuning.
 
volvorelix said:
I think it's impossible to guess what kind of output a theoretical engine with "porting" and a "good cam" might actually produce. Just a loose comparison -- I have a B20 that's .040" over, with standard valves, average porting, a recurved distributor without any timing control, no fuel control other than a single DCOE Weber, and it dynoed 176 at the rear wheels with a leaking manifold gasket at 4 psi.

As you know, boost pressure measures resistance to boost more than actual flow through the engine in cfm. It doesn't really offer an apples to apples metric.

Best,

Cameron
Portland
Click to expand...

Cameron here is right, there is no exact way to calculate the HP that your engine will produce due to the number of factors involved and variations within those factors. The most gain seen with any b18/b20 is going to be in the head work and cam selection. With proper porting and cam selection there are B20's in that 150-200hp area in NA form. With regards to a boosted application, you should be looking for a cam with decent lift and lot less overlap than a performance NA cam. Searching for a stock grind with minimal overlap has brought me to a D or K cam, which from reviews in NA form give decent low throttle response/acceleration, looking at the profile it seems to be enough lift and duration to be acceptable for a lightly boosted beast.

My estimation of % increase/# of boost is a loose correlation of all factors involved, so please dont rely on those numbers, they are lowball estimations only.
 
sspony said:
Well I can get a hold of the whole turbo kit for $200. Then I would just need to fab the other parts which is more labor then money. Probably can get a decent carb for $200.

So the question is, can I hit 150hp for $500?
Click to expand...

:hahano:

$500 will just about get some HIF6'S rebuilt professionally, counting shipping both ways.
 
sspony said:
Well I can get a hold of the whole turbo kit for $200. Then I would just need to fab the other parts which is more labor then money. Probably can get a decent carb for $200.

So the question is, can I hit 150hp for $500?
Click to expand...

Wasnt planning to use s/u carbs on a boosted build. But if a cam is required thats certainly going to tank the budget haha.

In the end it might be best to just go with a solid na b20 build.
 
A stock C, D or K cam are relatively cheap, it is doable on almost any cam, some just take it better than others. If you have the option a D or K would be best stock grinds IMO. I am currently running a mystery cam, most likely a C cam... works fine. SU HIF carbs are easily modified for blow through.
 
cwdodson88 said:
A stock C, D or K cam are relatively cheap, it is doable on almost any cam, some just take it better than others. If you have the option a D or K would be best stock grinds IMO. I am currently running a mystery cam, most likely a C cam... works fine. SU HIF carbs are easily modified for blow through.
Click to expand...

So you think a whole different setup with the SU's is better then that accel kit?
 
sspony said:
So you think a whole different setup with the SU's is better then that accel kit?
Click to expand...

not necessarily, but it will be easier to intercool if needed since you can run an air to air intercooler. With that accell kit you would need to run an air to liquid cooler because the cores are much more compact and you can essentially build it into the manifold. Another alternative is water meth injection in order to cool the charge. If your climate sees a lot of 100* days it might be worth while, but at such a low boost level I dont think you will have any problems with the Accell kit.
 
Hotdoggin said:
So wait, water/meth is only a bandaid for an intercooler in this situation?
Click to expand...

Pretty much.. With the kit he has it is taking air/fuel and sucking it out of a carb, compressing it in the turbo and blowing the mix into the intake you really cant put a traditional air to air after the compressor or you just end up storing fuel in the intake plumbing. Due to the short amount of piping a small air to liquid IC could be used in this case since it isnt as big of a storage house for the air fuel mix. Using watermeth would just be a bandaid, but probably a very effective one due to the short piping shot, and lack of space for a liquid heat exchange in the mix.
 
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