View Single Post
Old 11-26-2018, 10:34 PM   #59
Hacksaw116
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Santa Rosa, Ca
Default

The rear cam seal is pretty straightforward, just keep it flush with the back of the head and the #4 cam cap as you snug the bolts on the cam cap. Remember to put a dab of RTV on each side of the #1 and #4 cam cap to help seal the gasket where it bends sharply in those corners.

You might want to get the front cam seal too unless you are positive it isn't leaking. It's $4. However, pulling the front cam seal means pulling the timing gear. This can open another can of worms of you aren't really careful about not letting the auxiliary shaft or crankshaft move. If you are going that deep might as well do the timing belt too which means yanking the fan shroud, fan blade, and the auxiliary belts going to power steering and alternator. Weigh the options, the rear seal is just a valve cover gasket and popping cam cap 4. The front seal you may as well knock out all the wear parts while you're in there. Water pump too if you have any question about it. It's a lot more parts and labor, but will give you a solid foundation you can count on in the future.

I just did the cam seals on my brothers 244 this last weekend because the front cam seal was leaking. It turns out the front cam seal on his car wore a groove in the cam, so when I replaced it with a new one it still leaked because at the seal point the cam OD wasn't to spec with the ring seal ID. :( Fortunately, someone mentioned to me you don't have to seat the front cam seal all the way, and you can translate it a mm or 2 forward so it isn't riding in the groove, but honestly I'd just get a new cam at that point.

Just my $0.02
__________________
Hacksaw116
Hacksaw116 is offline   Reply With Quote