• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

The Belgian Wonder - Joshua Brown's 1984 242ti

Thats a good wife.
:)
Time to start work on the Megasquirt wiring.
I've got a box full of wiring bits, including a 740 harness of some sort that I may pull wire and connectors from.
wiring_stuff.jpg

I cleaned up the 850 throttle body with some lemon softscrub so it smells nice and fresh and I can pick it up without getting my hands dirty.
It was the only 850/960 throttle body at the junk yard and it didn't have a Throttle Position Sensor so I'm going to try using this old Nissan TPS.
tb_tps.jpg


I had a plug that would fit on the tps but the wires were rotted out.
tps_bad_plug.jpg


The plug only had two wires in it as well.
tps_plug_two_wire.jpg


I had some spare fuel injector pigtails so I swapped the leads out of those into my TPS plug.
tps_plug_three_wire.jpg


Lookin better.
tps_new_plug.jpg


Next up was the three wire plug for the dizzy.
dizzy_plug1.jpg


The plastic sheath and the rubber boot had done their job and the wire was ok but the outside was kind of dirty so I cleaned it up a little.
In this picture you can see how the pin numbers for the plug hide under the rubber boot.
Black = Ground, Yellow = Signal output, Green = 12volt in.
I cut the green wire short because I was going to splice in a 10ohm resistor but I didn't have any of the right value, time for a trip to radio shack.
dizzy_plug2.jpg


Because the Megasquirt I'm using is a MS1 V2.2 board set up for MSnS or something I have to connect a resistor from 12v(pin 28 I guess) to the tach input(pin 24).
I decided to just do this on the bottom of the relay board going from the Pin24 lead on the phoenix terminal strip to the switched 12v side of the main relay.
I think this should work:oops:
relay_board_bottom.jpg
 
Cleaned out the HKS BOV, it still had dirt in it from rolling into the side of the highway down in GA 4 years ago.
The recessed cap screws that hold the outer piece on were kind of rusted and the threads were kinda chewed up looking so I got some new M3 x .50 at Lowes.
The only M3's they had were pan head slotted and the heads were too big so I chucked them into the multi axis mini mill and turned them down until they would fit.

I forgot to take pictures.
 
Last edited:
nice. i ran a 1k ohm resistor + 12v pullup into the dizzy signal line, that's apparently how all the volvo hall sensors like to work.
 
RYpYVbvl.jpg


32KQUzbl.jpg


fzVNJ5Tl.jpg


This car now resides in my driveway. JPB and I brokered a trade advantageous to us both.

The car has been sitting a long time, and needs a bit of TLC. That TLC will involve removing the B21 and a lot of the extraneous wiring, and installing a 4.8 GM lump. Should be fun.
 
Gonna pull the motor and transmission this weekend and donate them to another local Tbricker who has use for a B21. I'm keeping a little bit off of it, but not much.

The interior is pretty rough, so it'll be completely stripped. If anyone needs stock B21FT parts, let me know.

Probably going to use the coilover stuff on my '79, and swap on some cut springs onto this car. It's gonna go straight at a brisk pace. I'm not too concerned with turning this one.
 
You might want to buy another threaded sleeve since the one on the car is kind of hacked up.

Looking forward to seeing where this goes.

Should be picking up my 4.8 from a friend's shop either today or tomorrow. I have a "universal" GM LS mount kit I hope will sorta work. Should be able to bolt it to the motor, tack weld the mounts to the crossmember, pull the motor, and finish welding.

Haven't found a trans yet, but TH400s are plentiful and cheap. I'm torn between using the MS1 that came with the car to run everything or buying a Microsquirt and going that route. It's only like $350 for the Microsquirt, and I think it's probably worth it in the long run to go that route...not that Micro is exactly groundbreaking, but putting the MS1 on a boosted V8 would just be silly.
 
I don't think it was ever finished. It looks like it attached to the head with the threaded holes that are already there. If I can find it and if it would be of use to you, you can have it for the cost of shipping.
 
I'm torn between using the MS1 that came with the car to run everything or buying a Microsquirt and going that route. It's only like $350 for the Microsquirt, and I think it's probably worth it in the long run to go that route...not that Micro is exactly groundbreaking, but putting the MS1 on a boosted V8 would just be silly.
While the MS1 would probably do just fine, I think I would go with the microsquirt as well.
That MS1 box is about 12 years old, should be ok but who knows, it hasn't been run since Aug, 6, 2006.

Sweet...
Keep the updates coming ... personally, I hate wiring issues.
Can you please tell more about the third engine mount?
/ sven
The mounting bracket is a left side accessory bracket that I want to say was for a vacuum pump of something, it's really been too long for me to remember.


I don't think it was ever finished. It looks like it attached to the head with the threaded holes that are already there. If I can find it and if it would be of use to you, you can have it for the cost of shipping.
Probably in one of the boxes that came with the blue rolling parts bin.
 
That's my favorite color on these cars.

Makes me miss my 83 245 Turbo.

wrvFYB1.jpg


Given the state of the wiring in this car, I'm seriously considering just pulling everything out and starting from a blank slate.

I have no interest in having a functioning radio, glove box light, etc.

By my count, here's what I'd have to wire in to make the car at least somewhat street legal (the "rules" are more like guidelines where I live)

Tail Lights
Brake Lights
Turn Signals
Headlights
Horn
Blower fan (it'll have heat)
Fuel pump ****
Engine management ****


I really think i'd be miles ahead to just pull most of the OE wiring and start fresh. It's in a pretty bad state. Thoughts?
 

Yep. That's exactly what I was looking at. Don't need anything too crazy. 10 circuits should be plenty. I've got a couple fuse panels and relay sockets that could be easily repurposed too for super-budget-ness.

This weekend is gonna be spent stripping the interior of the car out. I tried to save some stuff, but most of it is just too far gone.

It's probably gonna wind up with a fuel cell in the trunk too. Got a buddy locally that's already volunteered to help me out with building a roll bar. Picked up a free super-cheapo poly race seat yesterday too.
 
Dumb question but do you mean both the FI and body harnesses are damaged (RE: Lights), or something else? Just asking for clarification as questionable electronics are why I passed on a 242 recently despite having a really solid body. (Signal to make a right? Well I hope you like your cautions flashing instead... stuff like that.)

In for progress :)
 
Back
Top