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244Ti Stage Rally Project

Battleship grey is also a decent color for an interior. Not so blinding on the really bright days. The brighter interiors like to reflect on the windshield. Just my experience.
 
Battleship grey is also a decent color for an interior. Not so blinding on the really bright days. The brighter interiors like to reflect on the windshield. Just my experience.

I would absolutely agree in a road race car where it's usually more bare bones. My other 244 is battleship grey inside for that reason. But with a passenger seat and another person in the car, black door panels, black dash, skateboard griptape front floors, a helmet/crap holder thing behind the seats, and a black panel covering the trunk it should be a non issue.

In other news, Al's been rolling along

Handbrake & bias valve mounted

Battery mounted

Patch panel in and roof vents


I quickly thinned out the stock 240T harness a while back, but I didn't anticipate I would not be able to pass stuff thru the strut tower skins [which we welded shut with plates.] I also got rid of some things I should not have, so I ripped out the chassis harness from the parts car and started over with that.



The neat thing is the parts car is basically the best wiring jig ever - no roof [cut off at a pillars], zero panels attached and zero interior.
 
Heading up to Al's today to start paint.

Been working on the dash the past couple of days.


Flocked it with the flockit.com kit. It started really beat and mushed up, nothing bondo couldnt smooth out.

So I wanted to use the early dash with the late cluster [mostly because I am too cheap for additional aftermarket gauges right now, at least the stuff I want], but the problem with any stock cluster is the fact the dash bar is in the way behind where it sits so it makes space a premium

Used the stock shroud to trace the gauges

A coffee mug and a giant candle sitting on the table worked as great stencils

Added another layer to mask it

And the semi finished product - not quite done aligning it but it's close. I might do it over again since I found out there is anti-glare Lexan out there.
 


1.5:1 quickener solution



Cage painted



Using POR-15 glass white topcoat for the tub instead of fridge paint
 
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Finished with all the paint this weekend on the tub, at least everything that will be done outside of a booth. I do still want to do the innards of the doors and stuff going on, but from here on out parts will be going back on the car which is exciting.

It sucks balls but I am not going to be running Olympus. Theoretically I could still try but I don't feel like pushing my finances to test uncertainty with certain components I know I will be changing to have the car be "base lined" where I want it. I don't feel like I have half assed anything yet and I am deep in this project. Feel like it would be a waste to try it.

New goal is to just have it driveable for Davis, have it ready for a rallysprint at the end of May [Prarie City] do some tuning and work over the summer [and saving money] and be ready to tackle Gorman, Doo Wops and either Prescott or Mendocino in the fall.


Masking the cage took a while!

More POR-15 for the interior - pro tip if you ever do this get 2 gallons if you want to cover the tub, interior and engine bay/trunk areas too

Ran out of POR-15 and switched to POOR-15 [rust oleum] for the jambs
 
I'm kinda scrambling to make Davis, we will see. The only parts I really need are a windshield and brake hoses.

Half the battle is putting the car back together.

The other half is getting it smogged. Im not too worried about the sniffer. I'm mostly worried about my smog guy ****ting a brick (no pun intended) driving a caged car into his shop. I can't tow it either since the Ram is out of commish.
 
So the car is back home, but still on the trailer covered up and tucked away. I have nowhere to work on it until next week.

Still have some stuff to get ready, so I decided to finish the engine yesterday

Monday night I drove up to Sac and picked up Justin's [blu92in99] engine from his 242. Ryan [Volvoracer82] is taking the long block. I snagged the cam and adjustable gear out of it as well as the turbo setup for the rally car's motor.

The turbo is a ported Volvo .63 T3 hotside, Turbonetics T3 center section, Garrett .60 T04B compressor with an ATP ultimate wastegate mounted to a ported 90+ manifold.

Also took the Denso alternator from that motor over the early Bosch I was going to use.



Waiting on a few fittings for some plumbing and gauges, and it will be ready to stick in there
 
Two month update.

So I've been busy but still been working on the car here and there, got a lot done with different things just nothing really complete (dash is in, new windshield, finishing other interior things, ran brake lines)

I got interrupted for a few weeks because I picked up a 245 Diesel as part of a trade for my Dodge 3500 and tooled around with it for a little bit.




My coworker [sn Connerkuhns] bought it with the intentions of doing a B23F+T but unfortunately the engine he got was not the right candidate.

So I ran the idea by him of sticking the B23FT + T5 for the rally car in the wagon to break it in and test it out while he hunts for a new engine and collects T5 parts of his own.

I got started Saturday afternoon pulling all of the fuel system and drivetrain out of the wagon. I also had a bunch of suspension parts I swapped in including iPD sways, Bilstein HD's and TME springs. The rear end had the most blown out trailing arm bushings I have ever seen. I took the diff out of the rally car and put it in the wagon, I was not planning on using it anyways since it's a 1031.

I picked up a 1030 with a 4.11 and put that in place of the stock diff.

The other motivation of taking the drivetrain out of the wagon was to stick it in the rally car to make it run and also get it titled as a diesel. I am wrapping that up today



I am also thinking of doing the Lemons Rally mostly for laughs with the car, powered by the D24. It's a road rally from Monterey to Washington and back
 
But I do have Imgur now!
eTOToUW.jpg

Got the 5x114 axles and hubs in. The wheels are Method MR502'S, 15X7, et15. Super convenient to have a reasonably priced [$160/wheel] readily available wheel option since you usually run through wheels in rally.
VimZOet.jpg

Brakes are also plumbed now. I can get more pictures but it is a pretty basic setup. Used 10mm to AN3 banjos off the single line ABS front calipers to a hardline which runs to bulkhead fitting on the factory brake hose mounts on the strut [I cut a notch in each one so you can loosen the bulkhead fitting to remove the struts without removing any lines] AN3 braided hose to the body of the car.

The rear I just used the factory lines and per the advice of Al I removed the female nuts from the line at the junction and used AN3 nuts and sleeves [wirebrush/wheel is good here to clean off the gunk from the line] to a T which runs to a bulkhead in the rear seat area, and runs inside the car to the hydraulic brake and the bias valve, and back towards the master [through another bulkhead.]

I'm happy because I feel like it's not gonna get hit with stuff or twisted up or smooshed in any way, took a lot of thinking and bending and flaring but it was kinda fun. Except the 100 degree shop with no AC part

Oh and definitely use the Ridgid 37 degree flaring tool for AN stuff.

Tidying up some suspension stuff today, car should drive off once I have tires.
 
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