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Side Gapping your spark plugs

John, that sounds worlds easier than using spacers....so i want the gap of the plug pointing at the intake valve as best as possible? i think i can do that!

(i wonder how far out volvo is from the factory...my guess--not too far)
 
Thanks for the awesome info Thomas, it's just what I was after.

Now I can't remember whether you point the plug gap straight down into the cylinder or at the intake valve...I know you guys are saying at the intake valve, but I seem to remember either an earlier thread or an article I read somewhere that said pointing it straight down into the cylinder was better. I'll have to go look that up...
 
Al said:

I had to come back to this. This link is from the same site.

"Illuminating tips for the night"
http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/highbeams.html
His briliant idea is to hot wire both low and high beam to turn on together all the time :???:
This guy is an idiot. I wouldn't put too much stock in his spark plug ideas. There are a lot of other stupid things on there like totaly inaccurate and out of date oil spec charts and his used tire price estimator.
 
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wow BPR6EIX are damn cheap over there, there about ?9 here in the UK, but i only paid ?19 for 4 as i got them from a guy who runs a sparkplugs site here in the uk, who is also who i bought my nissan 300ZX seats off.
 
weather man was wrong so I did try this out... gapped them to .018" IMHO it works very nicely. Maybe i'm crazy but it seems like it changed the sound of the exhaust note a bit too.
 
Well known tuner/author David Vizard approves of side gapping in an article in the latest European Car or Grassroots (I get so many car magazines that I cannot keep them all straight).

Philip Bradley
 
pbonsalb said:
Well known tuner/author David Vizard approves of side gapping in an article in the latest European Car or Grassroots (I get so many car magazines that I cannot keep them all straight).

Philip Bradley
I'd recommend it based on what i've experienced so far. Off-boost it doesn't really feel any different but once your boosting there is noticable extra kick. If it was cooler out and my intake temps weren't so high I bet that extra kick would be much stronger. Given that the Autolite 63 plugs cost about $1 a piece it's no big deal to replace them ever 5k miles. Though I read that some just file the plug and re-gap to get more life from the plug.
 
you should be able to get indexing washers from your local speed shop, dont just turn untill it points the right way, your head will thank you
 
After flogging my car in the 50 degree weather tonight i'm 100% sold this works. I'm sure the guy in the red V8 kit car I smacked down hard would agree. :lol:
 
Indexing the spark plug is where you use shims to make sure the open part of the gap faces the intake valve. that way the spark is not "hidden" behind the upper electrode. Makes starting the flame in the cylinder a bit easier.

Note: This is not an attack on the author of this post, just a followup on seemingly everyone's idea of indexing in this thread.

Actually, this is only half true. This is the most commonly taught form of indexing, and in some cases it does work, but in others it does not. Here is why: The engine doesn't care where you point the spark end of the gap because you should be igniting a fuel vapor. The true point of indexing is to face the spark in the direction of the area of the cylinder where the flame will propogate best; the area the charge is going to be most dense in the cylinder just before igniting. Yes, you could face the gap towards the intake valve, where the fuel is coming from, but due to turbulence, the flame may want to propogate in some totally off-the-wall area of the cylinder or rather the charge may build up in some other place. This is where you want to face the spark gap. It could even want to propogate below the plug and not to the side of it, which would make side-gapping a good thing; a FULL side-gap so that the ground electrode is NOT overtop of the hot electrode at all. This is a pretty hard thing to determine, though... I remember a team doing some extensive testing on this, at one point using clover-top pistons, (clover shaped relief in the top of the piston) to try and equalize flame propogation throughout the entire cylinder as best as possible. They had to look for signs on the cylinder walls and piston tops to see where the charge was trying to reside.

In some cases, due to where the plug is in the head, it just won't matter where you face it because it will never get close enough to the charge area of the piston. Oh well. This makes a full side-gap the only possible advantage.

So YES, indexing plugs the commonly-taught way COULD help you, but it would just be by chance that it did because without serious testing, you're never going to know where you need to point them. If you automatically think indexing towards the intake valve is a good idea then side-gapping should also automatically be a good idea because you remove material which could interfere with the fuel charge hitting the spark... unless the backside of the electrode is facing towards the intake-valve in which case you may believe you need to at least turn them side-ways. But then is it worse for the fuel charge to have to split around the electrode before coming around to the spark gap area, or is it better for it to have to hit the spark and then split around the electrode, or should you side-gap and then turn them sideways so that it doesn't have to split around the electrode... this is all IF the intake charge even tries to blow by your plugs. The charge might flow into some totally different route, bypassing the plug altogether. Do you know?

It's probably best to just start with side-gapping since indexing is a whole different animal which takes tons of testing. Worst of all, things like this are influenced mostly by the POWER OF SUGGESTION! It's not that they don't work, it's just that they don't work unless you do them correctly, and in some cases, they cannot make a difference due to head design. But you could SWEAR that throttle response is BETTER and so is mileage... right? Right? Dyno testing is the only real route... or e.t.'s
 
I agree, and usually add in these side-gapping threads (there have been a few) that the only time I index a plug, it is to clear a piston. And sometimes side-gapping is necessary, too.

Oh, and: holy resurrected thread, batman!
 
wooo ressurecting old threads....fun

i think im going to side gap em bc a friend had success with it, idleling wise
 
indexing plugs with shims messes up the CC's (volume) of your combustionchambers. They will not be equal any more, the combustionchamber with the plug with the thickest shimpack installed will have the most CC's.
a real dragg if you have just paid a sh*tload of $'s to get them matched.

I tried indexing on my car and i couldn't notice any difference at all.
sidegapping however is noticable but only slightly. I can't be bothered to do it again though, hassle/performance ratio is not good enough.
 
Here is something of a factory side gapped plug. The electrodes are also platinum so they don't erode very quickly. I ran these for a while in my 16v turbo motor. I'm not sure they helped any, but I was having other ignition problems anyway. I may try again, the spark kernel would be nicely exposed with these plugs.
IMG_3304.JPG
 
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