Coverelay dash cover installation
Since I have to take the dash out to replace the leaking heater core I thought it was the appropriate time to cover the dash. Coverlay makes a cover that is difficult to notice without close inspection. Ordered one from the limited color selection and it going to need to be painted to get closer to the original.
I got the instrument panel out but not without breaking the speedometer tamper device off. First I had to remove the speedometer cable from the transmission in order to get enough slack to move the panel out enough to get to the tamper device.
CAUTION: Don't pull the panel out by force. The first thing that will break is the plastic locking nut on the speedometer cable. Then you will have nothing holding the cable in.
Once the tamper device was off a simple twist of the locking nut and the entire panel came out. I did remove the steering wheel because it is easy and in the way.
Most of the connectors are unique and do not require much documentation. There are three single connector wires. The red/white goes to the tach. I sorta lost track of the other two but noted the wire colors on the other hobby car panel with a Sharpie. If I can't figure it out I know how to and will come back and document the connections.
Following CleanFlametraps guidance on the mystery connectors removal I got the dash out without breaking anything else.
The 3M tape solution is attractive but the temperature specs on the tape is 200*F. While the interior may not get beyond 140* or so the dash itself will certainly hit 200*. The Coverlay Sil-Bond RTV 4500 is rated to 400*F.
Done . . . for better or worst.
I used an electric sander to sand the raised cracks and to rough up the surface for the adhesive.
I followed through on my flash of adequacy regarding using 3M Super Strong Attachment Tape. Ran strips all around the edges that the cap instructions say requires a silicone adhesive seal which I applied. The instructions are to attach at the edges leaving the open areas free to move. Hope that doesn't mean bubble/warp up. The intent is that the double backed attachment tape would hold the cap tightly to the dash until the high strength adhesive had time to set.
Note on the tape: the backing of the double backed tape is a little difficult to get off. It would be a good idea to peal them off before applying the silicone as it took me 15 minutes to get all that off and the work time of the silicone is supposed to be 10 minutes.
Seemed to have worked. The cap is held down pretty tight to the dash. Now, if it just won't release before the silicone sets.
Plastic bags of water was plan B.
Now, to address the part about the Coverlay brown, which was the closest selection to the dark palomino of the original color. It has got to be refinished and I have yet to find a close match. The local auto color shop is ordering in a can of SEM Palomino but I suspect that it is going to be too light. Next closest if the SEM Camel.
The Bertone dash does not seem to be a 'normal' color for Volvo's of the period. The local paint shop says that they can mix a match for only a few dollars more but I would have to provide the spray equipment. I have that. Leatherique could do that also with their vinyl paint that they claim is suitable for dashes. Cost $50 vs. $20 for a can of SEM vinyl paint.
Decision for another day.
Now I have to figure out how to get the heater core out.
If I wasn't having so much fun I might get frustrated about now.