'69 144S: B20 performance bolt-ons?

Redwood Chair said:

I don't see how 210 - 300 stock ponies that actually fit in the engine bay is offensive trash?

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Isn't the later-model small-block Buick cast-iron?

fatcatbestcat said:

Isn't the later-model small-block Buick cast-iron?

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Yes another # 84 lbs according to the link I posted, not much more than a turbo setup though so not the end of the world for the weight factor and all it affects.

That said 69 was the last year for the shorter rear driveshaft and 1030 pumpkin that doesn't have room in it for an LSD, furthermore, your budget donor vehicle for the larger prop and 1031 pumpkin is going to be an early 164 [pre 70 331:1 auto / 3:71 hen's teeth manual] which is few and far between nowadays.


Like John said one step at a time or you'll lose the whole ball of wax.

http://www.vclassics.com/mppe1.html



http://www.vclassics.com/MPPE/

*Only* $5K for 50 ponies.

Edit:

In 2000 dollars which is $7,449.42 in today's dollars not to mention dead RPR links, no more big bore kits, waiting months for parts etc.

Ipd brought back the big bore kits. The head is where it’s at. But with the right amount of time and a few things stolen from the high school chemistry class, it’s not that difficult.

The ad cited is many years old. Phil sold his engine a decade or more ago.

Parts for engines like the MPPE are readily available. The heads have been further improved and a few other refinements are now in play. But concerns about the price point are valid. If your priority is all out speed, this isn't for you. For those who want to get more from a B18 or B20 engine and retain the period authenticity that approach includes, this is a good way to go about it. Not for everyone, certainly.

With a $3k budget I would spend maybe $300 on a 100hp dry shot with eBay, CL, and overnight parts from Japan. The remaining $2700 in the budget would cover enough replacement b20s to keep on hand to continue sending it down the road.

I'll chime in with my $0.02 FWIW. Being somewhat risk-averse, my position on this is "go with what just plain works" and is proven over decades of real-world use. With that in mind, when I decided to rebuild my '72 142E's B20F this last winter, it was a no-brainer: I threw the IPD catalog at it and rest easy knowing I've got a reliable, streetable, proven mild performance engine. Used the standard-issue parts list:

-Bored 0.030 over, Mahle pistons
-IPD/Isky VV71 Street Performance Cam
-IPD lifter & pushrod kit
-IPD Double valve springs
-Mild ported head with hardened valve seats, shaved for higher compression
-Balanced rotating assembly
-Lightened flywheel
-Simons 4-1 header with matching Simons 2" exhaust
-Stock D-jet with stock coil

Performance increase was immediately noticeable. This cam provides mild increase in torque off the line but really wakes up over 3500 and then pulls hard to 6000. Revs faster and exhaust header makes great sounds at WOT. I should probably upgrade to a nicer 4-2-1 header and 2.25" or 2.5" exhaust at some point, but not a huge priority. Reliability is paramount. Last weekend I did a 8-hour 3-stage road rally with a group of classic cars through the hilly backroads of Wisconsin and pushed the car HARD. It loved it and wanted more. Coolant temp never went above middle of the gauge. Importantly, it didn't break. This is why I bought this car: to DRIVE, and I can attest that a build like this (although not 200 screaming, fire-breathing horsepower) will ensure many satisfying miles.

A lightened flywheel really does make a large difference in how a B20 feels. You don't even need to go crazy with it. I had a machine shop just take off the lowest of the low hanging fruit and shave off the metal around the outer edge - to where the clutch pressure plate bolts. Didn't mess with the center section or the back side. That took several pounds off where it counts the most. And it really makes the engine feel zippier.

I had several cheap headers fall apart on me, which gets annoying, so I finally bought a KGTrimning 4:2:1 header. Which is much more substantially made. And probably works a lot better.