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LT1 or 850 glt swap into "83 volvo 240 turbo

which swap would you do inside a "83 volvo 240 turbo?

  • chevy LT1

    Votes: 11 61.1%
  • volvo 850 turbo

    Votes: 7 38.9%

  • Total voters
    18
if you actually want a car to drive and hate k-jet: just swap in LH2.2.

its basically an easy swap.

or you could acquire a more modern stand alone EMS.

otherwise: who cares, its probably going to take a year or years to complete the swap. and in the end it may deliver numbers or may always be slow and expensive.


im thinking about switching to lh2.2. not sure!! if its going to cost me 4 grand to do it. in my eyes, its not worth it right now.
 
My swap took me 2 months NOT YEARS and cost a little over $4000 total with the T-56 and everything. Swaps are not nearly as expensive as everybody will try to tell you. The key is to Bargain shop make lots of Wrecking yard runs and become good friends with Craigslist.


uhhhh this is Turbobricks. $4k is like 95% of the entire board's car **** budget added together for a year.
 
1/8th?

that is pretty fast.

too bad a corvette LT-1 or whiteblock would probably take about that much money to go that fast even without the cost of the swap itself.

Your probably right my car is smog exempt which opened alot of doors for me especuially cost wise.

7.50 is pretty fast but I want to go faster NITROUS is next:-D
 
uhhhh this is Turbobricks. $4k is like 95% of the entire board's car **** budget added together for a year.

Sig'ed





Even though its a lot of money... V8's are so cool!!1! That would be the main reason why I would do it. People just dont understand Volvos, but you can impress everyone with a Chevy-powered Volvo, if thats your thing.
 
I don't claim to have done this swap, I do however have a pretty good handle on what is necessary to complete the swap. There is a b5254t (R-line motor) powered 242 rolling around southern california that has been driveable for the last two or three years now.
 
why not find some brand of standalone for the 5cyl and do itb's? I think about it everytime I open my gf's hood....imagine the sssooouuunnndddd!
 
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I don't claim to have done this swap, I do however have a pretty good handle on what is necessary to complete the swap. There is a b5254t (R-line motor) powered 242 rolling around southern california that has been driveable for the last two or three years now.

heh, well, someone has already done it then.

just finish your's dammit!

:p
 
MSnS-Extra can run a 5 cylinder with COP. The engine already has a 60-1 crank wheel and a cam synch wheel so it's just a matter of hooking it up. That's what we are doing for karl's car. The tricky part about doing ITB's is I would prefer to use throttles off a motorcycle engine (cheap and available on eBay) but almost all of those come in pairs. I think the older Yamaha R1 had 4 completely separate throttles, but w/e.. Another issue is the MAP signal. With ITB's and short runners the MAP signal can become extremely erratic at idle, and many people encounter a situation where anything over 30% throttle pins the MAP signal at 100kpa, essentially creating a TPS range of 30%-100% that is completely un-tunable. Of course, running a MAF could solve this.

It's just one of those things that would be fun some day, but I have other things on the plate right now.
 
MSnS-Extra can run a 5 cylinder with COP. The engine already has a 60-1 crank wheel and a cam synch wheel so it's just a matter of hooking it up. That's what we are doing for karl's car. The tricky part about doing ITB's is I would prefer to use throttles off a motorcycle engine (cheap and available on eBay) but almost all of those come in pairs. I think the older Yamaha R1 had 4 completely separate throttles, but w/e.. Another issue is the MAP signal. With ITB's and short runners the MAP signal can become extremely erratic at idle, and many people encounter a situation where anything over 30% throttle pins the MAP signal at 100kpa, essentially creating a TPS range of 30%-100% that is completely un-tunable. Of course, running a MAF could solve this.

It's just one of those things that would be fun some day, but I have other things on the plate right now.

Re ITB problem: you should probably run alpha-n for ITB. aka throttle possistion and RPM based tuning.
 
the problem folks find with bike throttle bodies is opening speed. bike engines even at low revs for them (3000-5000) consume lots of air so the throttles open pretty fast when more move the lever
 
Re ITB problem: you should probably run alpha-n for ITB. aka throttle possistion and RPM based tuning.

Alpha-N is useful but doesn't account for actual engine load which can make the car run funny/badly under certain conditions. The best solution would be an Alpha-N/Speed Density hybrid mode that could use Alpha-N under a certain range of KPA and TPS values and then transition to speed density when you get out of the low speed/erratic idle. I'm fairly certain this will be a new feature in MS2-Extra.

the problem folks find with bike throttle bodies is opening speed. bike engines even at low revs for them (3000-5000) consume lots of air so the throttles open pretty fast when more move the lever

Opening speed can be solved fairly easily by experimenting with the motion ratio of the gas pedal and different diameter throttle spools.
 
I see guys using map sensors on itb all the time...check out some honda forums, or vwvortex. even some lancer guys to it. btw, you can use bike tb but you need to make a seprate throttle cable or your own custom set up and break apart the 5 or even 6 one you need. I was going to set up itb on a vr6 corrado I almost but but...screw fwd
 
The lt1 swap is pretty strait forward. When I swapped mine I went to the track a few days later with stock suspension and ran an 8.90 on some 195/70/14's and an open diff. pretty damn cool.

nakedengine.jpg


goodengineshot.jpg
 
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