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Official LH2.4 EZK Wasted Spark Conversion - Installation Instructions

Coil Dwell - I did a duty cycle test with a Fluke 78 Automotive Meter today at idle speed on 1993 B230F NA, and it showed 6% duty time. At 800 RPMs, it takes 75ms to rotate crank once, so 6% times 75ms equals a calculated coil dwell time 4.5ms. Using Mac Automotive Multimeter ET 332, it shows at idle rpm an average pulse width of coil around 5.7ms. Since these valves of 5.7ms vs 4.5ms should be similar, this indicates one of these values is bogus.

From my reads, these higher energy coils, like Bosch LH 2.4's coil, do not take much dwell time to charge. A GM HEI coil, for instance, takes 3.6 milliseconds at 13 volts. Further, as RPM increases, there is less time to charge a single coil. Consequently, to have a good spark throughout engine's RPM range on EFI vehicles, a coil's dwell time should match up to higher RPM, when possible.

On a 4 cylinder engine @ 6000 rpm with a single coil, there is about 5 ms of time to charge a coil. Fluke meter showed via duty cycle calculation above to a coil dwell time of 4.5ms at idle.

It's going to take a good scope to measure dwell time, unless Bosch's single coil specs can be found, but I suspect that Fluke meter's measurement might be more realistic. If true, using GM's LS2 (D585) coils should not be an issue, with respect to coil's dwell time.
 
04-24-2012....can anyone tell me if there are other powerstages i can use besides 0 227 100 203?

Here are the specs for the 0 227 100 203, which is similar to the 0 227 100 211 . Bosch 0 227 100 211 "is an external ignition power stage capable of supplying up to four non-transistorized ignition coils." It can be setup for wasted spark (2x2) or four coils.

Offhand, I suspect if four stand-alone coils are used, then sequential firing might be advised. 4 stand alone coils drawing say 8 amps each in wasted spark setup will generate heat in this power module, and I can't say if this module can take it with 4 separate coils in a wasted spark setup.

Bosch shows how to create a simple driver board (igniter) in both of these spec sheets, btw.

cribbj ("Supra" Moderator) posted a wiring setup, about eight posts down in that forum, for this powerstage.

FWIW

Bosch's 0 221 122 334 coil, has a 8A maximum charge limit, and it was used on LH 2.4, and was OE for Audi/VW. This coil is also used for after-market applications, like for Ferrari Dino 246 and Lancia Stratos. For instance, for a Ferrari Dino 246, one person who did this conversion noted,

"This setup has a similar approach and precision as the very effective Marelli AEI200/Magnetic pickup setup in late GT4/GTB/GTS cars, but delivers 33% more power due to the higher coil current (and 100% more power compared to the factory points setup)."

As a side note, that after market kit would be nice to install in a distributor with points.

So, this Bosch coil, 0 221 122 334, can soak up 8 amps and will generate a high energy spark. GM's LS2 (D585) coils can absorb close to 10 amps if 5 ms of coil-dwell time exist.

Wasted spark is an improvement over OEM setup, but for the most spark power, sequential firing setup is needed.

My two cents, if I used a wasted spark setup, I would consider either of those Double-spark ignition coils mentioned in this thread, but I'd learn towards the Ford coil, 8241, since they would be in stock in most auto supplies.

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LS Coils on Buckha Board

After speaking to super boosted and redrawing his diagram because thats how my brain works. (I draw it, I understand it) :roll: I think I understand what I am doing.

My question is, I want to get my car running in perfect order before I add all the +T stuff. Which means I want to have the wasted spark conversion up and running.

I am already running the 850T Orange injectors. I just want to make sure I am not having to redo the EZK wiring when I +T, so my questions are-

1. Can I run a Turbo EZK with and N/A ECU till I complete the +T?
2. Which EZK is best to use? I have the following turbo ezks- 148, 214, 207 Gold Box

Here is the wiring diagram I drew up in case the color coding helps anyone else-

 
^ The timing maps are quite different between NA & T. Personally, I wouldn't use an T EZK on an NA. If your NA EZK is chippable, you can install the WSB in that, then swap out the chip for the T chip when the time comes.... or put the NA chip in the goldbox...
 
^ The timing maps are quite different between NA & T. Personally, I wouldn't use an T EZK on an NA. If your NA EZK is chippable, you can install the WSB in that, then swap out the chip for the T chip when the time comes.... or put the NA chip in the goldbox...

I didn't realize the difference in the ezk's was literally a "chip" that I can swap. I don't mind moving the n/a chip into the gold box.

Thanks for the insight.
 
Yes but problem is most EZK's do not have removable chip in them...

I can burn stock chips and send you one no problem. I bought a few hundred blanks last year. Let me know if you need stock bin chip cheep. 10 buxs.

One thing that I'm still confused about all these years is the stock EZK chips I've tried to erase and reuse. I've never been able to. Half the chip is FF's and the other half is 00's. Anybody got any knowledge about why that is that.
 
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Yes but problem is most EZK's do not have removable chip in them...

I can burn stock chips and send you one no problem. I bought a few hundred blanks last year. Let me know if you need stock bin chip cheep. 10 buxs.

One thing that I'm still confused about all these years is the stock EZK chips I've tried to erase and reuse. I've never been able to. Half the chip is FF's and the other half is 00's. Anybody got any knowledge about why that is that.

That would be great. Send me a PM with your Payapal. That way I can for sure make the gold box n/a tuned until I am ready to turbo, then switch to TLAO chips.
 
Lunch control (rev limiter)

For the SET switch does it need to be a momentary or I can use a normal toggle switch and for the ARM which brake switch do I need to use (automatic) to complete the circuit ground after the toggle has been activated, cause there's two switches​ on the brake pedal the small black one in front and the one that's​ behind the pedal.

Thanks
 
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Some quick questions...Got my board about a month ago,had Shane solder it up for me and wired it up last night using his diagram. Using a goldbox EZK.

Using LS coils.

---Just pops and cranks like its out of time.

A couple things.
--I sourced 12V from the factory coil power source -- Is that ok?
--I grounded both grounds to the firewall(B and A) signal ground and ground. Am i missing something here? Should one of those grounds come from the factory powerstage?

Do i keep the factory powerstage?

This is the diagram i used...

For anyone using LS2 coils for wasted spark

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I've read the claims that special plugs are needed for wasted spark but I don't get it. Platinum plugs have a shortened center-to-outer electrode path such that the spark is always on the platinum. This allows the plugs to last for 100K miles. If you're going to inspect and change your plugs more frequently, standard copper plugs are fine for wasted spark. (I guess the sharpened electrodes on a platinum plug might be a bit better if you're fowling plugs.)

Curious about this - as I just put in WR7DP's about 80 miles ago & now have a 'breakup' that occurs during a steady throttle increase run - I was just trying to figure out what variables could cause the breakup, and forgot that I had put these in. I'll switch them back out for WR7DC's to rule out the plug, but I'm curious if anyone has specific notes plug types that induce erratic behavior?
 
Nothing to add specifically to your post but with regards to plugs, I'm going to use the Denso TT plugs. If I understand it correctly the ground electrode sees the "wear" on the exhaust stroke in wasted spark application.

Figure I will want longer wearing electrodes on both ends.
 
Curious about this - as I just put in WR7DP's about 80 miles ago & now have a 'breakup' that occurs during a steady throttle increase run - I was just trying to figure out what variables could cause the breakup, and forgot that I had put these in. I'll switch them back out for WR7DC's to rule out the plug, but I'm curious if anyone has specific notes plug types that induce erratic behavior?

When I said "Platinum plugs have a shortened center-to-outer electrode path such that the spark is always on the platinum", I really should have explained it as a sharpened center tip and (sometimes) a protruding disk on the outer electrode. And, I was only commenting on wasted spark requirements. There's a whole different set of concerns for high boost/racing, and I'm way out of my comfort zone here. The amount of bad internet info on this is huge. As a reasonable start, try:
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/spark-plug-guide/
 
Curious about this - as I just put in WR7DP's about 80 miles ago & now have a 'breakup' that occurs during a steady throttle increase run - I was just trying to figure out what variables could cause the breakup, and forgot that I had put these in. I'll switch them back out for WR7DC's to rule out the plug, but I'm curious if anyone has specific notes plug types that induce erratic behavior?

Confirmed that WR7DP's DO NOT play nicely with the WS/EZK116 setup. Breakup is gone with the WR7DC+'s installed.
 
'89 245 N/A with Buchka board, LS2 coils, Yoshi daughter board with Turbtankshane chip for correct dwell. Got it all wired up and it will finally start but is missing. I've confirmed that my wiring coming out of the coils is correct.

When I turn the key to position II I can hear the pump prime and a couple of times the engine will jump as of a coil is firing before the car is started.

Any suggestions?
 
Sent photos of my setup to Karl and Chris. I was using pins 24 and 25 on the EZK for the two outgoing logic wires. 24 seems to be ok but 25 is no bueno. After re-reading this thread it looks like pins 14 and 15 are safe so I've soldered outgoing on those pins. We'll see if that works tomorrow morning.
 
Great to hear you got it sorted out...I'm glad we could help!
Go out and enjoy it.

I still have to get my tach sorted out too - I'm procrastinating on that.
There's an original spark output wire from the EZK that "might" work to drive the tach even without a relay.
I'll report back if that works.
 
Is anyone still making coil brackets like the BTI one?

Purchased a coil and powerstage last weekend, just waiting for the boards to return in stock.
 
Great to hear you got it sorted out...I'm glad we could help!
Go out and enjoy it.

I still have to get my tach sorted out too - I'm procrastinating on that.
There's an original spark output wire from the EZK that "might" work to drive the tach even without a relay.
I'll report back if that works.

Yeah....let me know how that works out. I'm always looking to clean up the engine bay and if I could ditch even this little relay that would make me smile.

It always amazes me how I see things so abstract until I get my hands on things, then start piecing it together....suddenly.....it all makes sense and is simple.
 
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