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LH2.4 Install/Conversion. Just 4 wires to make it run

Can I connect the blue to the + on the coil?

You need to add POWER TO THE COIL by adding 12v SWITCHED to that blue wire at the grey plug. On our 1984 240 Turbo we simply found a blue wire there already with a black male connector and then we jumped it to the coil.

Every model Volvo should already have an ignition coil with a (blue) wire to power it up. Find that bitch and POWER UP your coil!
 
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Sorry about the misinformation. I was wrong. lh2.4 does use the black ect sensor.
Moderators feel free to delete my post to protect the truth.
I only wonder why the motor I pulled out of a '90 740t had a green ect. It did have a "k" stamped on it after all.
 
make's sense. it did that with the "other" chip. a little mapping and it didn't care anymore.

Every factory TURBO bin I have seen has the WOT map blanked out (all zeros). There is also an "enable WOT switch" flag that is usually disabled.

I have tested neither on a turbo bin, but I would expect that NA cars (with a WOT switch) would have data in the table and the flag enabled. Paging Sbabbs or anyone who's ostrich'd a NA car to thread?

In theory, if you are a pro tuner, could use your WOT switch with your Turbo ECU. Or wire a switch to something else (like nawssssssssss doooood :oogle:)
 
I have a 11 wire plug on my donor harness because the car had abs but im not converting to abs. howerver im lost because I have one big yellow and red, I understand what do do with that but then you said small yellow red to fuse panel. well I have 3 small yellow reds...idk what they are for
 
nvm figure that out. 2 of them weren't actually coming out of the clear plug. ok I don't have a red/black stripe wire in mine you said this powers speedo? I have a all blue I understand that goes to the back of the speedo by the speed sensor wires. I have a blue and black wire though that splits one goes to a plug in the back of the speedo one goes to a random black plug any idea what that is?
 
Here are the two plug variations on the electric speedo.

http://cleanflametrap.com/speedo.html

I am currently trying to figure out why mine is not working. The wiring diagram don't show the black ground that have been mentioned in a few of the posts. I'm heading out in the garage to try that out right now.

What car are you going 2.4 on? I just got my '81 up and running (minus the speedo working). I might be able to assist you in some wiring questions.

edit:
Speedometer is now working! The speedo was not properly grounded!
Also of note, the switched power for the cluster cannot be fuse #5 on older k-jet cars. This fuse is hot all the time. There is a distinct break/gap in the fuse panel further down, the fuses are switched after the gap. So power for the cluster needs to come from the lower section.

There are two different wiring layouts for the plug, like linked to above. If the plug has a blue, green/white, and black wire: The blue is switched power for the entire cluster! (otherwise your warning lights are on ALL THE TIME, if not hooked up the cluster will not have power), green/white is the power from the cluster to the sensor, and black is grounded (for both the sensor and the cluster).

If the wires are red/black, black, and blue: then red/black is power, black is ground, and blue is power to the sensor.
Another thing I found: Some clusters have the green/white and black wires switched. I had mine as in the picture above, but the speed was way off and the needle was jerky. I put the green/white in the middle spot and the black in the lower location, and all is good now. Power remained in the same location.

Sensor wiring: Run the power from cluster to speedo sensor (Blue or green/white depending on plug), then run the other terminal of the speedo sensor to ground. I used the ground on the drivers side of the center console.

I'm going for a drive in a day or two. I can't wait to blow the cobwebs off, it's been to long!
Thanks for the info in this thread everyone!
 
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lol erik I know your point of pin numbers is what matters but colors tell you the same thing on certain wires. HOWEVER tomorrow ill look at pin numbers just for you =]
 
In his defense, the wiring diagram for the speedo is incorrect (no ground shown in the three that I have looked at) and there are no pin outs.
BUT! When wiring everything else in, I used the pin outs and the LH manuals and wiring diagrams.

Look at the diagrams. Find the pins to the wires that are needed. Label the wires. You then supply the wires what they need, or you hook them up to what they power/control.
 
In his defense, the wiring diagram for the speedo is incorrect (no ground shown in the three that I have looked at) and there are no pin outs.
BUT! When wiring everything else in, I used the pin outs and the LH manuals and wiring diagrams.

Look at the diagrams. Find the pins to the wires that are needed. Label the wires. You then supply the wires what they need, or you hook them up to what they power/control.

so you used an lh2.4 speedometer? what did you do about all the pins in the plugs to the back of the speedo. like none of them are the same lol
 
You can use a cluster from a car with an electric speedo. Or, you can use a lh2.2 throttle body. I would choose this route, as it's less wiring. You have to swap the tps to the 2.2 throttle body, but that's not hard at all.
 
right now i have power to the coil. power to the powerstage, power to fuel pumps BUT my main fuel pump wont stop priming it just keeps on priming if the key is on. what would cause the fuel pump to keep priming like that
 
Either a problem in the ECU or the pump is wired incorrectly. Where is the power for the fuel pumps coming from? I need actual wire colors and pin locations, and remember that pictures help.

You should start your own thread about the Diesel to LH swap. So others can learn. Similar to this one, but all about the diesel to LH swap.
 
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