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The 142e decade build...or sooner hopefully.

Brandonium

New member
Joined
Sep 12, 2013
Location
Birmingham, AL.
I've had my '71 142 for about 5 years this upcoming December. I had planned on starting on the rebuild sooner but for life reasons I didn't. Since the car is now in my garage and I have daily access to it I have started preliminary work...or at least sketching out what I want, if it's doable and since I have no definite time frame for completion I suppose I can wait out any technical difficulties as they pop up.

Suspension


This 142 will not be lowered sadly. I know this probably goes against the grain but I just don't like the way my car rides, handles or looks lowered so I cam going to fill her out somewhat. Instead I will be tossing in the following for suspension:

- +50mm rear 5" coils
- +25mm front 5" coils
- Adjustable Panhard
- Adjustable Torque rods
- IPD Sways (already on vehicle)
- +50mm GAZ adjustable rear shocks
- +25mm GAZ adjustable front shocks
- Weller steelies 16x8 (5x108) ET-20
- Cooper Cobra P235/55R16 OWL

ECU / Electronics / Upgrades / Mods

I'm way past my lower appendage in trying to figure out the electronics and how I want that to play out. So far this is what I am planning:

- Rallye cluster (being rebuilt by Roger) with custom warning lights + Lambda and split out turn signals
- Two aircraft instruments that monitor oil temp / ambient air temp / Duel Fuel-Air ratio
- Arduino Rallye Cluster control including aircraft instruments
- Megasquirt ECU (MS3X)
- Speedhut GPS speedbox for Speedo
- Bluetooth / Aux / preamp output modified Volvo FM / 8-Track radio
- Raspberry Pi Android Auto
- Front / Rear Fogs
- Heated Seats
- Rear shelf A/C
- Backup camera
- TPMS
- Possibly RFID door lock/unlock and immobilizer (dead last on list of electronic upgrades to incorporate)

This is how I see the layout for this.

Engine sensors --> Megasquirt --> Arduino --> Gauges --> Pi

Only reason I want to send that data to pi is to have options such as having additional engine data present if I need it. There's a guy out there who has a python script taking engine data and basically assembling it into a trip computer of sorts.. I'd like to have that data available even if I don't use it immediately.

Pi will handle audio, GPS, Backup camera and whatever else I'm able to do.

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Engine / Transmission

Definitely looking to get as much as I can out of it without it being bad mannered. I'll even look into going the Turbo route if need be. As of right now all I know I'm set on:

- ITB setup
- Engine balancing and blueprint
- Possible turbo / ITB setup (Turbo seems taboo this side of the pond but Swedes seem to like that option... and I trust the people who actually made the car :oogle:).
- If I can work out satisfactory power (180 hp) going the NA route then that is what I would prefer.
- I will probably keep the M41 since any other option out there will compromise the long throw shift and I love having a long throw in this car too much to sacrifice that. It just adds to the charm IMHO.

Body

- Full size spare mounted on vintage roof rack (I have the rack already but plan on only using the mounts and having a shop make me a sturdier variation).
- Two one up bike trays for the roof rack.
- Sliding rag top (75/25 at this point)
- Whatever body work and the necessary paint job. (only rust is in passenger spare tire well)
- Front Fogs / Rear Fog

Interior

- Re-upholstery
- Carpet
- Sound deadening

That's about it for now!
-Brandon
 
There's a guy running 235's with -10 ET with overload 240 springs in the rear. He's already out there beyond what most feel fits. As long as the back is high enough you shouldn't have to worry about that. It's those who are lowering where that seems to be more of a concern.

Or am I missing something? I can attach pics of the 142 in question.

Looks good but I doubt 235s are going to work at 20et.
 
I'm a steelie fan through and through. :) Ok so I double and tripled checked with the owner of said vehicle and questioned what his actual offset was and it winds up that it's actually +10 so my apologies. :-P

So does +10 seem doable or even 0 et? I can always test with adapters just to see where the wheel sits before committing to a custom set of steel wheels which is probably what I will do. That is once my suspension components are in place.

^ :nod:

A set of 16x7x43et V70 wheels would be a much better choice.
 
^ :nod:

A set of 16x7x43et V70 wheels would be a much better choice.

I'm a steelie fan through and through. :) Ok so I double and tripled checked with the owner of said vehicle and questioned what his actual offset was and it winds up that it's actually +10 so my apologies. :-P

So does +10 seem doable or even 0 et? I can always test with adapters just to see where the wheel sits before committing to a custom set of steel wheels which is probably what I will do. That is once my suspension components are in place.

:uh:

The wheels I mentioned above are steel wheels.

And no unless you get the offset close see below.

Stretch some 165s and it might work.
 
Here is a stance that I would like on my 142. Either this or in between this and the rallye setup that I can attach pictures of. Here are the details from the owner that has this setup. For some reason when I punch these details in the offset calc I get -50 et that can't be right can it? Here are the pictures along with details:

Suspension lowered 100mm in front / 60mm rear

Tires are 195/50-16

All that has been modified body wise is the 1" inside lip.

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I would be surprised if he doesn't rub in the back. That's about what my 144 looked like when I got it and it rubbed like crazy.
 
Or, for that matter, stock 140/164 rims with 195/65R15 tires. My '72 142E came with that size on the stock 15x5x40 rims. On 164E steelies, you can run 205/65R15's, which will be close to stock, diameter-wise, so the speedometer will read correctly.
 
195/70R15 on a 164E rim in the left front spot. The left rear rim on this car was a 140 rim with a 165R15.

1973 164E M410/sunroof car. The Albatross. Arrived in October 2001, left in February 2004.

 
Speedometer correction won't be much of an issue for me since I will be running a GPS speedbox so any size tire should register correct MPH with the speedo. Remainder of the gauges I'm looking to control with an Arduino micro-controller so no more of this having to source non obtainable sending units. Also, since it's EFI and I'll be running MS I plan on having that sensor data input directly into MS and from there output to my cluster via Arduino.

Or, for that matter, stock 140/164 rims with 195/65R15 tires. My '72 142E came with that size on the stock 15x5x40 rims. On 164E steelies, you can run 205/65R15's, which will be close to stock, diameter-wise, so the speedometer will read correctly.
 
A few other items I failed to mention that are in the plans:

- Front turn signal delete (will incorporate the front parking lamp and side marker light for each corner as turns when engaged)
- May change over to 164 side markers
- '67 - '70 front grill (possible fog inserts)
- Antenna delete
- Spare tire well delete (both sides)

My bumpers are not in the best of shape. The metal is ok but the rubber is ****. Since replacements are non-existent I may look at either having the existing bumper altered to receive another vintage make/model rubber insert )ie BMW 2002 or have other make/model bumpers altered and modified for the 142. The rear bumper for a BMW CS 3.0 looks promising it's only 1.6" shorter in width than the 142 bumper so that's also an idea.

First order of business though and something actively in progress is the electronic upgrade portion since that is the most painstaking. If what I am doing can help others down the road with these clusters I'll gladly post and keep updating here. :-D
 
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