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1987 244 DL Autocrosser

some guy at work is throwing away chevy 15x7 wheels from his dune buggy.

They are awesome and might include tires. do you want
 
blkaplan said:
You see these?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLL-005907542/?rtype=10

15x9. 6.5 back space aluminum.. 200bucks those are 13lbs each...... w0000000000000000000000000000t

The 15x10's they have listed are 14 lbs each...

http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_fitment.php?mw_id=34&sw_id=364&size=i_15 x 10

For flat hub wheels like that might be easy to drill another pattern
Click to expand...
Should go good down the strip, but will they hold up to autocross?

MrBill said:
some guy at work is throwing away chevy 15x7 wheels from his dune buggy.

They are awesome and might include tires. do you want
Click to expand...
eww, no. My dad has (2) 13x6 Corvair wheels and (2) 15x7 Camaro wheels that would fit my wheel adapters. The 15x7 is HEAVY like a truck wheel. 13" is LOL. He used adapters to mount them to a 65 Beetle 35yr ago.
 
blkaplan said:
Listed as street & strip. Only 1500 lb load rating. Which is close on your car but should be ok. Might call and ask them? Or just guinea pig it up :cool:
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No, they're for "steet and drag". I'm not driving on the 'steet' and I'm not drag racing. Maybe "steet and drag" means ProSolo?
 
Only if they're 15x10 LMs.

Test drove it around town today, stopped at Autozone for some power steering fluid, and then a couple blocks from home the clutch cable finally popped on the 1-2 shift...hmm, it's in 2nd gear, so I drove it home with no drama. As I came around the last corner I accelerated a little to slide it out of gear, and rolled it back into its parking spot as if nothing was wrong.

Picking up an OEM cable tonight and will swap it in the morning if I can find the big iron block that fits over the end of the cable. I went back to the scene and found the rubber block that goes in the end of the fork, but I couldn't find the metal retaining washer. I certainly heard the ringing sound as it ejected out the back of the car, though. The Spec Stg3+ PP gives quite the heavy pedal...when the cable isn't broken.
 
Not going to a hydro clutch, because it's too much of a hassle to get the parts, or because it might weight a bit more?

The blue top mounts look nice. Are they some universal pieces, or are they designed for the 240? Do the holes on the perimeter allow for combined camber/caster adjustment?
 
I would consider a hydraulic clutch. The pedal is quite heavy now, but not bad enough that I feel I must change it. I don't drive the car in traffic much, but when I do, I feel it in my left leg.

I've had the car since 132k miles and it has 247k now and I've never changed the cable. I doubt it was replaced by the previous owners based on the maint. history. I had already bought a new cable with plans to change it when I did the swap to the heavy pressure plate, but I didn't. So I was going to do it when I did the T5 swap (maybe next month). I knew it was likely to break, being original and seeing about twice the force as stock.

You can buy the camber plates from Tom Smith in Florida: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=201500

The holes don't allow for infinite adjustment, but from any of the configurations that will line up with the holes in the strut tower, adjustments can be made to camber by sliding it in or out along the factory slots in the strut tower. It's a one piece design, so there are some limitations, but it's very light and the bearings are nice. To fit the bearings in the plate, the plate must be heated. I did the first one in the oven and it was tricky. We did the second one with a torch and it was much easier.
 
Replaced the clutch cable. Clevis pin at the pedal was worn halfway through, so I looked around for a pin and forgot I had one in a spare pedal set. Instead, I used a #10 x 2-1/2 machine screw. Cut off the end to just use the smooth section near the head, drilled a 1/16" hole, and it works fine for now.

Since the end of the old cable broke off, I lost the rubber piece that goes over the end of the cable and I lost the metal washer that slips over the end of the cable. I went back and found the rubber piece, but couldn't find the washer. So now I'm using a sway bar endlink cup washer that's about 3/16" thick. I cut a notch in the side and it fits the end of the cable. Works for now til I get the right part that was on back order.

Ready for Carlisle? Almost...
 
I need to re-do my clutch cable I think... Its looking a little suspect on the cable itself... but I have never had any of these rubber things or washers you speak of... available from the dealership?
 
You have the end of the cable hooked onto the clutch fork? Yeah, not supposed to be that way. There's a piece of rubber, almost cube shaped but more rectangular and it has a hole in the center. Press it over the ball-end of the cable. Then pull out enough slack on the cable by adjusting it, or use big channel locks to pinch the clutch fork to compress it and then slip the metal washer over the cable. The slot is only wide enough for the cable, not the steel shaft at the end of the cable. The mid 80s cars had a big C shaped block of cast iron that had the hole in the center and a slot to slide it over the cable. At some point they used an even bigger, heavier version, perhaps on the 740. Early 240s just used what is basically a washer with a tapered hole and a slot in the side.

I had one of the C shaped metal blocks, but I may have used it on my daily driver. When I got the car, it just had the end of the cable hooked onto the clutch fork. The factory installation should work better over the long haul because it spreads the load over the entire end of the clutch fork.
 
towerymt said:
I think these are 10"s but I have to ask him to be sure.

4005963481_673c58dd84_b.jpg


4006729548_73be7238e9_b.jpg
Click to expand...


mike, can you please ask the owner whether he's on any forums, or what his suspension specs are?
 
Test drive was a success. After adjusting the new clutch cable, I put a piece of rubber hose over the threaded metal sheathing and tightened 3 small clamps over the hose. This is to keep it from self-adjusting. The pedal feels better than before...it's smoother through the whole range of travel (obviously). Also, pedal effort has been reduced, which I was hoping for based on what Bne experienced.

Swapped the front bars between cars, so the '87 has the 21 now and the DD '92 has the 28. Quite a weight savings there... :lol:

Drove the car to work today, too. This car corners like a snake in a rat hole.
 
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