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Stranded In Parking Lot

Are you still in the parking lot?

If i had to guess i would say flooding from oversized injectors.
 
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ZVOLV said:
Are you still in the parking lot?

If i had to guess i would say flooding from oversized injectors.
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Yeah thats what i was thinking flooding from oversized injectors, strage how it happens only when hot though.. I am not in the parking lot, after like 20 min it started and let me home.
 
I recommend doing tests. Don't waste your money on parts darts.

For example, think it's the fpr? Get a gauge on there!

Think it's the powerstage? Sprak test! LED light will read the 5v square wave signal FROM the ezk. No scope required.

Think it's the crank sensor? Scope would probably be best, but even the LED test light will blink for you if it's working.

I recommend buying an LED test light.
 
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Have you replaced your wiring harness yet?

My first Volvo (a 700) had quite a few wiring issues and I repaired the faults one by one as they presented themselves. Every few months I was trouble shooting and patching parts of the wiring harness. I'm sure that would have continued had I kept it longer. With all my volvos after that, I have replaced the ignition and main engine wiring harnesses at the first sign of failure. All of those cars were incredibly reliable and required next to zero electrical troubleshooting. I also typically pull all relays and reflow the solder on all the joints.
 
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Lando said:
Have you replaced your wiring harness yet?

My first Volvo (a 700) had quite a few wiring issues and I repaired the faults one by one as they presented themselves. Every few months I was trouble shooting and patching parts of the wiring harness. I'm sure that would have continued had I kept it longer. With all my volvos after that, I have replaced the ignition and main engine wiring harnesses at the first sign of failure. All of those cars were incredibly reliable and required next to zero electrical troubleshooting. I also typically pull all relays and reflow the solder on all the joints.
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I thought that wasn't an issue on the later model cars.
 
Being a professional tech, if you came to my shop I would pop the hood and see a cone filter flapping around like a flacid member, electrical taped wiring, and other tampering and it would probably get turned away. If we did agree to work on it it would start with a clear explanation that there will be no guarantees and that we would start with an hour or two of diag and go from there.
 
Fumomike said:
Wow Power stage is ridiculously expensive. Not a part i can just randomly switch it. better test for spark first.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-ignition-control-module-3501921oe
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Wow no kidding. $252. This might just be an example where even the most rigid true believers would say no to Genuine Volvo. Not saying, this late in the thread you need one, but if you decide you do, pick a used one or if you absolutely need a new one, Bosch without the volvo name on it.
 
Ahhh im sick of this unreliability. My car seriously has too much wrong with it to start modding it like crazy. Im going to take off these oversized 550cc injectors tomorrow and put the stockish ones back in. The reason why i am saying this is because I was Dead Darn wrong. My car even after my last...last...last thread post saying it was not running rich in boost after letting it learn, is running rich AF again. This is even after i gave it a good amount of time to learn. I am pretty happy with 12-15 lbs of boost with the stock injectors and am pretty sure it will still say 10 AFRS even with the stock injectors. I'll start with 12 and work my way to 15 lbs of boost. Then it will be lean enough to provide a good amount of power. It will then probably start every time even with heat soak. Will start right away if i turn off then back on. However when i give it like 10-15 min. its hard to start. Then 20-30 min. later it can start. If the smaller injectors cures it then im thinking its something to do with flooding the cylinders and or ECT sensor.

I will run with the smaller injectors until i fix and diagnose the issues.

Problems:
Hot Start
Rich AFRs at Boost.


There should be no reason why i am running 10 Afrs at boost in the first place, even with stock injectors(untested). I must have some sort of boost leak or major sensor issue where the ecu wants to inject more fuel to compensate for something.

Its interesting because 10 AFRS with the stock injectors and stock maf actually has a ton of power on it.

Then when you put on the 550cc injectors(like double fuel flow) it runs like turd and you can't even hit one psi of boost
Then when you put on a 3 inch maf with the 550cc injectors it can get into boost but once you hit about 3-5 lbs of boost, it bogs down misfires, and slows down like soooo much.

I will update if switching back to smaller injectors fixes the issue(will keep 3 inch maf on there tho).

And yeah, I can't bring it to a shop because i know they will turn me down lol.

The harness is fine i think
 
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2manyturbos said:
^^ I agree that it could be the ECT, however, saying that if it starts once it has cooled down points to the ECT is a huge stretch.
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I say this only because it's exactly what happened to my 240. I chased down every other thing that could cause it first because I didn't know how to replace the sensor. Once I got the deep socket and extension, it was easy and it solved my problem. I'm not saying it's the cause, I'm saying it's a likely thing to chase down. Replacing the sensor is less effort than testing it.
 
FWIW, my +t car runs like 10.0 to 10.6 AFR's at wot and just under 10 psi. Stock maf with the white bodied injectors (slightly bigger than factory I think).

Back in the day, the rich tune was considered safe for the old folks who filled their turbo cars with 87 octane. 87 is probably okay on a bone stock turbo motor, but fuel quality used to be rubbish and inconsistent. That's what I've been told at least.
 
Owsley said:
I say this only because it's exactly what happened to my 240. I chased down every other thing that could cause it first because I didn't know how to replace the sensor. Once I got the deep socket and extension, it was easy and it solved my problem. I'm not saying it's the cause, I'm saying it's a likely thing to chase down. Replacing the sensor is less effort than testing it.
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Okay sounds good. I'll make one last ditch effort with the ECT and distributor rotor, also will spray electronic cleaner on the power stage and fender related stuff. Also just set up regulator today on compressor to do the boost leak test.

Does rich during boost point to ECT too?
 
Owsley said:
I say this only because it's exactly what happened to my 240. I chased down every other thing that could cause it first because I didn't know how to replace the sensor. Once I got the deep socket and extension, it was easy and it solved my problem. I'm not saying it's the cause, I'm saying it's a likely thing to chase down. Replacing the sensor is less effort than testing it.
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You're right. Especially for a T-bricker who isn't intimate with a multimeter. Part swaps are quick.

But I say the effort is worthwhile because, although the replacement "fixed" the trouble, often times the part itself wasn't bad, but oxidation, corrosion, moisture, crud made connection to it unreliable. Think of all the things you've "fixed" by wiggling a plug, or pulling a connector and reseating it.
 
thismachine13 said:
I mean.....$20 at a Harbor Freight for the extension, wobble joint and a 19mm long socket. Sounds a lot easier than pulling the throttle body. YMMV.

Then again.....this is the TB forum. :)
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You think pulling the throttle body is difficult? I'm working on customer cars where broken **** from jamming tools and hands into brittle plastic costs ME money, so... I air on the side of caution. Takes me less than a minute to pop a throttle body off a 2-7-9, so...:rofl:
 
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