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Eco-Bricks - 35+mpg club

I would be interested to know the mileage of a B230KH (631 Heron head with T-cam and high CR) , it came in the euro-market 740's and was specially designed for good mileage.
Anybody ever ran a B230KH using EFi? +T-ed?
 
golgothan said:
I just want to note that I've managed 35+ on trips to Wisconsin in the s60, does that count?
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Mythbusters Studies Drafting


55mph - no vehicles in front - 32mpg

Drafting @100 feet - 35.5mpg (+10%)

Drafting at 50 feet - 38.5mpg (+20%)

Drafting at 20 feet - 40.5mpg (+27%)

Drafting at 10 feet - 44.5mpg (+39%)

Drafting at 2 feet - 41.0mpg (+28%)

MythBusters_Drafting_Myth.jpg
 
Janspeed said:
I would be interested to know the mileage...
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Timing advance, is the question...if default ECM/ECU limits timing boundaries, then I doubt if better mileage would exist.

Fuel Octane - Higher octane is better when ECM/ECU has more latitude in timing advance, but many vehicles will see no improvement, due to default timing maps.

Timing Objective - Advance timing until it pings, then back off a pinch. Also, ECM/ECUs that can control timing on each cylinder will do much better on mpg.
 
I don't find 55MPH to be good on fuel in a 240, between 80 and 90 in a 240GLT seems to give the best cruising consumption from my experience. Lower geared cars are better more like around 70-75MPH.
On LPG cruising at 80-90MPH usually see about 25-27MPG (real gallons not US half measures - works just over 30MPG for US)
Petrol should give about 20% gain so that should be just over 30MPG
 
Joris said:
In my Volvo 360, i have a b230fb which averages 30mpg. This engine has the vx3 cam. Should I switch to a Y, M or even T cam or should I keep the vx3 which has the newest design?

Ofcourse the 9.3:1 compression isn't helping but I will change that.
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T cam will produce more dynamic compression because of the lower duration/lift and will increase your low end torque and gas mileage some.
 
Isn't that the reason modern cars have a 6th gear nowadays? To drop the RPM's right down and to make it so you have to open the throttle plate wider = less pumping losses = better MPG.

Regarding one of 84B23F's old links concerning Brake Specific Fuel Consumption:
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112611

So what is the absolute best RPM to maximise MPG for town-ish driving (say 35 mph). At that speed in 3rd gear the RPM is 2500, in 4th it's 1900, and in 5th it's about 1200!

I could lug it along in 5th with the throttle plate needing to be open wider to maintain that speed, but according to that article the RPM would be too low and the "SFC suffers because there's increased time for the heat of combustion to escape through the walls of the cylinders".

On the other hand, if I use 3rd the RPM's are in the 'ideal range' according to the article diagrams, but I would only be using about 10% throttle = higher pumping losses = higher SFC.
Maybe 4th is best, but I'm confused...
dance.gif
 
baggins798 said:
6th gear nowadays?
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Over the road semi-truck engines, many years ago, ran around 2100 RPM highway RPM; then some thirty years ago, they were dropped back to around 1350 RPM range for highway driving. Same with newest automobiles, with six speed boxes. their RPM is dropped back.

what is the absolute best RPM to maximise MPG for town-ish driving (say 35 mph)
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"

Stick Shifts Info

For example, anything that allows you to keep the throttle open wider and the revs lower (like changing up to a tall gear and then holding it) will reduce fuel consumption because BSFC will be improved. But equally, recycling exhaust gas (ie EGR) might also achieve that same effect because pumping losses will be reduced - not all the inlet charge needing to come past the throttle. "
 
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klr142 said:
T cam will produce more dynamic compression because of the lower duration/lift and will increase your low end torque and gas mileage some.
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Other threads on here claim that the T cam does even better in the low end if you advance it by a few degrees. Naturally you're cruising in the low end of your RPM range, even if you're on the highway, so better low-end torque = engine works less hard at cruise = higher MPG.

I'm gonna try the T-cam thing in my NA 745 at some point. Trying to figure out if it needs a head gasket now, and if I have to pull the head and get it worked on, that's the obvious time to switch cams.
 
Janspeed said:
I would be interested to know the mileage of a B230KH (631 Heron head with T-cam and high CR) , it came in the euro-market 740's and was specially designed for good mileage.
Anybody ever ran a B230KH using EFi? +T-ed?
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Same..never knew Volvo made a eco-b230,doesn't that defy physics or something/?

:-P
 
blandoon said:
Other threads on here claim that the T cam does even better in the low end....
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In US, and in Europe, since government mandated fuel mileage testing, ALL OEMs peak engines towards best/better fuel mileage as based upon test routine. But, they know that many consumers want some pedal-to-the-metal power also.

All engines I'm aware of, for best fuel economy, work best at lower RPMs. For lower horsepower engines, you loose pedal-power when taller OD gearing exist. So, if your cam favors better torque at lower RPMs, then these cams would work better.

To cruise at around 60 mph requires around 30 horsepower in no wind conditions...hence, if best fuel burn is wanted, get out horsepower/torque chart, and re-gear transmission/rear-end, and maybe change tire size also.
 
blandoon said:
Other threads on here claim that the T cam does even better in the low end if you advance it by a few degrees. Naturally you're cruising in the low end of your RPM range, even if you're on the highway, so better low-end torque = engine works less hard at cruise = higher MPG.
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No need to advance it. I don't think anyone has ever said to advance the T cam. I ran it retarded 4 degrees and it was a good mix for me.
 
this is all true stuff

i know cruising at 60mph @ under 2000 rpms (1500-1700 ideally) is how cars have historically gotten really good mpg/fe.

if this isn't possible with the stock rear-end / trans couldn't the rear end be swapped to be able to achieve this?i remember someone on ecomodder/fuelly achieved 40+mpg hwy out of a volvo 240..ill see if i can't located the thread,getting 40mpg out of a 240 would be the best of both worlds in my opinion.
 
klr142 said:
No need to advance it. I don't think anyone has ever said to advance the T cam. I ran it retarded 4 degrees and it was a good mix for me.
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this ...the idea is to get right before peak torque for max mpg..retarding a mellow cam is great for mpg on the highway
 
mbolton1990 said:
this is all true stuff

i know cruising at 60mph @ under 2000 rpms (1500-1700 ideally) is how cars have historically gotten really good mpg/fe.

if this isn't possible with the stock rear-end / trans couldn't the rear end be swapped to be able to achieve this?i remember someone on ecomodder/fuelly achieved 40+mpg hwy out of a volvo 240..ill see if i can't located the thread,getting 40mpg out of a 240 would be the best of both worlds in my opinion.
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use a 331 rear end on a locker auto I think gets you around 2k rpm at 70...but youd have to live on flat terrain for that....run the stock L or M cam.....2.0 or 2.2lh tend to run lean....also kjet can be tweeked to run super lean.. then theres aftermarket stuff

I think a high comp ohc redblock with no ps pulley and only an alternator on the pulley on a switch to turn it off wwhen it isn't used can get into 35mpg consistently being lowered and at that gear setting above....some guys take out the alternator altoghether and just charge the car at home to gain like 2-5% mpg
 
240240 said:
use a 331 rear end on a locker auto I think gets you around 2k rpm at 70...but youd have to live on flat terrain for that....run the stock L or M cam.....2.0 or 2.2lh tend to run lean....also kjet can be tweeked to run super lean.. then theres aftermarket stuff

I think a high comp ohc redblock with no ps pulley and only an alternator on the pulley on a switch to turn it off wwhen it isn't used can get into 35mpg consistently being lowered and at that gear setting above....some guys take out the alternator altoghether and just charge the car at home to gain like 2-5% mpg
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Yeah dude...it's like a Plug-In Volvo 240....

You can probably park in those 'special spots'
 
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