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Old 08-04-2018, 11:05 PM   #43
DocterHow
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Davenport, IA
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This past week has been a lot of tidying up on the wiring and making a plan for where all of the wires need to be routed to be "tucked". I didn't take any pictures of this stuff as it's pretty boring, and it's still in progress. As mentioned in the previous post, I ordered a Dorman 300-202 power steering pulley, and Russell 648070 & 648070 power steering fittings. One fittings goes into the LS1 pump and the other on the steering rack to convert the high pressure line to a -6AN. I doubled up on some crush washers for the fitting on the rack as the O-ring on the fitting wasn't as snug feeling as the pump fitting. Since the pulley is a smaller diameter, I'm gonna install a power steering cooler while i'm at it.





The main pain this past week has been getting the fuel system done. The fuel level gauge never worked when I acquired the car, I hoped it was the gauge, but it wasn't. The sending unit has no resistance, and the board looked like there was little to no contact pins left on it. I'm surprised as it was the original Volvo/VDO sending unit, so I ordered a new sending unit. I then attempted to weld AN fittings to the new unit for the feed and return line, but it was very ugly and no matter how much I welded, it leaked.



As you can see, I used a MIG welder. A TIG or braze/solder probably would've worked better, but I don't have one and I also melted through the electrical connector accidentally. I did some research and found that MH Yount used an almost identical fuel system to the one I planned, and he had the perfect solution for the sending unit. Here's the final product:







To start, I went to a local speed shop and picked up 2 -6AN 90 degree bulkhead fittings and -6AN Tube nuts. Then, another trip to a parts store for some 3/8" steel fuel line. I cut the booger welded barbs off the top, and removed the vent and feed tube. I kept the return tube as it has the fuel sender mounted on it, but cut it shorter to make room for the Deatschwerks DW200 (255lph) Fuel pump i'm using. I drilled out the factory feed spot as well as the spot for the original electrical connector for the new feed/return fittings. The factory capped vent tube was repurposed for the ground wire pass through. On either side of the ground pass through I drilled 2 more holes for the pump power and fuel level. The original return hole was welded shut.



I then had to make the wire pass through connections fuel tight and prevent accidental grounding with the plate. So, a bolt was stuck through the plate, with a small O ring on the bolt threads to isolate the bolt from the plate. Then, a bonded seal/washer on either side of the plate was added, and they were "clearanced" to make sure no arcing or any electrical problems would occur. After I took this picture, I added some fuel safe JB Weld to the back side of each pass through as extra insurance. As a side note, I did need to bend the fuel level sender a little to make install easier, as it sticks out to one side a bit. Here it is installed, with -6AN lines running to the next part of the fuel system, and the dedicated fused relay with power coming directly after the main battery fuse in the trunk.





The next part of the fuel system is this, a Corvette fuel filter/regulator combo unit with the quick connect to AN adapters. I mounted this in lieu of the factory main fuel pump under the car. I also removed the factory hardlines and ran a single -6AN braided line to the fuel rail from the filter/regulator. Then, 2 short lines from the filter/regulator to the newly modified sending unit.



(edit forgot to add underside pic and fuel rail connection)




Last edited by DocterHow; 08-05-2018 at 10:11 PM.. Reason: added pictures
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