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Old 08-07-2018, 01:12 PM   #46
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Davenport, IA

I have the body wiring tuck 95% done, just need to sort out the electric fan wiring, but more on that later (see end of post).

I wanted to run the wires for the headlights, turn signals, horn, washer motor, etc behind the fenders for that clean tucked look. So, I drilled a hole through the car from the outside roughly where I wanted the wire bundle to pass through. However, I found out that the stamped half circle like sections on the inside and outside panels of the car do not line up with each other (FYI), but it worked out in the end. To keep the holes water tight a rubber grommet was glued in place with silicone on each of the 2 panels. To hold the wire bundle I used rubber isolated clamps connected by 2 self tappers towards the back, and 2 welded on bolts/nuts in the front.

Since I relocated the step relay and i'm converting to single round headlights, I wanted to add new low/high beam relays. I found a $20 headlight relay kit with ceramic H4 plugs off amazon intended for Jeeps that also use 7" round headlights. It works perfect, but I replaced the fuse holder with a waterproof one. The relays are mounted on the frame rail next to where the charcoal canister goes. I should add that I ran 10 gauge wire in the loom bundle to power the lights, and another 10 gauge wire in the passenger side loom.

The wires are routed through some factory holes on the lower panel, with the horn wiring being tied into the passenger side headlight run. The connector for the turn signal is also split off the main loom and rests at the top of the rightmost hole.

The same routing was replicated on the passenger side, but an extra hole was drilled for a windshield washer bottle relocation.

The washer bottle is another cheap amazon purchase. The bottle is held on by a small aluminum bracket bent into a U shape. I like that the ugly bottle is hidden, but I'm gonna come up with something easier for filling up the bottle. Right now, the cap rests below a removable factory rubber cap/plug, but I may run another hose from the cap to a higher point for filling the bottle.

The two relays on the passenger side are for the electric fans. I'm stuck on which way to wire the fans with the vintage air trinary switch. The GM ecu sends a ground to complete the circuit and trigger the relay, and has 2 separate wires which are programmed to send a ground at a specific engine temperature. The vintage air trinary switch also sends a ground to activate a relay. It seems pretty simple to just tie the grounds of the ecu and trinary switch together, but I have read that the GM ecu does not like having a ground coming from another switch.

Would adding a diode or a third relay work better to isolate the ecu and trinary switch?
'82 242 LS Swap | '90 240 Wagon | '91 1.9L Turbo Miata
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