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T3/T4 not spooling in first

I though about that but I've read that it needs to be able to maintain the pressure so that the leak keeps leaking long enough for you to find it, otherwise if the leak is big enough you'll lose all pressure before you find it and have to repump. Unless I could find someone to be constantly pumping. I was considering using a compressor at a gas station but that is not restricted to an appropriate pressure so it would require some care, that and it costs money.
 
Small shop vac on the pressure side would do it as well, just make sure it isn't blowing dirt and such out the hose first. Won't be able to hear a leak though, should be able to feel around for one.
 
Small shop vac on the pressure side would do it as well, just make sure it isn't blowing dirt and such out the hose first. Won't be able to hear a leak though, should be able to feel around for one.

That's one way----but there's always a variety of ways of doing thing..
"10,000 roads lead to Rome" is one of most favorite sayings...

So "feel around" is wonderful. Marvelous. An excellent idea..

Me, I prefer to get a spritz-bottle and some little bit of dish-soap and water and spritz around connections and look for bubbles forming...just like when you mount tires, right?

and while I'm sure there will be many people angry at what is certain to be called let's see what's your favorite endlessly repeated phrase...ah yes "me forcing people to do my "way or the highway"??? whatever it is yo're always saying....,

there IS one very small advantage to the spritz bottle and soapy water method, well 2 really:
a) you can spray into places you cannot get your hand into..well that I can't get my hand in
b) you can see bubbles form in places you cannot get your hand into and the nice little bubbles form at pressures that are much lower than I know I could ever feel---but naturally others, more experienced, more up-to-date could...

This idea was ---as always--- one of the thousands of ways that leak-check could be done, so maybe for once we could do without your constant lament accusing me--FALSELY--of claiming there's ONE WAY to do things...this one is just one easy way.. I'm sure you can suggest more ideas.
 
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That idea will never work John.

There, feel better, with that out of the way? lol

I'd suspect given the apparently significant lack of building boost that he'll be able to feel it pretty easy, but yeah, the spray bottle with a soap/water solution does definitely help a lot as well, especially if you're hands are on the larger side.

But alas, that begs the next question...Dawn or Joy? What brand makes the best bubbles? lol
 
All right so will a shop vac make enough pressure to properly test the system using the soapy water method? Do I have to do anything with the breather hose while I'm testing in order to prevent air from flowing back out the intake?
 
I can't imagine trying to blow pressure by mouth into a 2 inch tube. A shop vac would work better, not sure how much better.
 
You need to quit trying to figure out the best way to half ass it and do a proper boost leak test, with an air compressor. Lots of people on this board don't have compressors and have still managed to get a test done.

Have you tried to see what kind of boost it will make with no reference line hooked up on the gate?

Also, have you tried to see what it will do with the controller hooked up?
 
First suggestion, 90% of the list you've posted for mods, absolutely worthless as they are unrelated as a 'mod', makes it tedious to read thru. Food for thought as I've seen that list posted in a few threads.

Second, you've got a wastegate stuck open. I saw you have an external gate listed, is the internal gate locked shut or is the housing a non-gated housing?

I've got a .63 on the GT2871R, has absolutely no issue spooling in 1st, easily hit 20psi by 3500, even on a stock head.

Now see here, I have a very similar setup as you, and I don't ever come close to having that much responsiveness, no matter what I try. Either my entire setup is garbage or yours is a freak of nature. My peak boost looks like this per gear (~20 psi), per my datalogs:

1st: 5000
2nd: 4200
3rd: 3500
4th: 3000
5th: 2800
 
Now see here, I have a very similar setup as you, and I don't ever come close to having that much responsiveness, no matter what I try. Either my entire setup is garbage or yours is a freak of nature. My peak boost looks like this per gear (~20 psi), per my datalogs:

1st: 5000
2nd: 4200
3rd: 3500
4th: 3000
5th: 2800


but hows your head been ported compared to garys? Wouldnt a really well ported head not see PSIG as fast as there isnt the same amount of restriction.
 
Ok I may have found the issue... my car has a flame trap... yes, my turbo car for some reason has a flame trap. When blowing into my intake I was blowing air through the vacuum line going to the flame trap off the manifold and out through my catch can to the intake. Is that a big enough boost leak?
 
Ok I may have found the issue... my car has a flame trap... yes, my turbo car for some reason has a flame trap. When blowing into my intake I was blowing air through the vacuum line going to the flame trap off the manifold and out through my catch can to the intake. Is that a big enough boost leak?

Medium to huge. Run that SOB to the pre-turbo hose before that pressure breaks something.
 
No oil puddles so far so we may be ok... currently fabbing some vacuum plugs. If I run a blocked vacuum line off the manifold nipple that was going to he flame trap and run a blocked vacuum line off the flame trap will that work? Or is even just having the flame trap in the return hose only a no no? I just don't have a hose long enough to run all the way from the pcv to the intake.
 
Update: installed the block offs and I think I can see an instant difference (well in neutral at least). Now even a slight blip of the throttle reduces the vacuum by around 7mmHg Where as it took some decent reving before the needle would move before. That being said, I'm now only pulling 16 mmHg vacuum cold and around 17 half-warmed up (idled for 3 ish minutes). Does this mean I have another vacuum leak somewhere?
 
Dunno what to say man. I'll see 5psi at 1800, 3500 it's sitting full tilt at 20 on the wastegate in any gear but I also have a converter to flash against. Even in locked in OD it'll see 15psi by 2800, takes a minute to get there though, and the revs climb kinda fast after that, along with the MPH...
 
What does the wideband say? I didn't see if you have a stock cam or not, which will affect vacuum at idle. Spray carb and choke cleaner at all the vacuum ports, if your idle raises you know it's a leak.
 
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