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Extending the pedal travel on clutch?

E

EivlEvo

Active member
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
So, I'm running the Kennedy Stage 2 rn in my 245+t T5 swap. It all seems fine, but I'm struggling hard with getting the right cable travel.

As it is, I have my clutch engaging RIGHT off the floor, and I have zero play at my fork meaning I'm probably riding on the TOB.

Any thoughts on if I were to add a CNC piece of steel that can pin into place to effectively increase the total travel of the clutch?

Or is there some other adjustment I should be messing with?
 
I do believe you can space out the pivot ball from the bellhousing if pivot ball is on passenger side. That has been a secret in the 5.0 and T5 swaps that I found digging through old archives.
Basically, your clutch fork needs to be perpendicular to the input shaft. You may also use different height/adjustable throw out bearings. Really need to elaborate more on your setup and how you swapped it.
 
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With my T5 swap, I had an issue getting the throwout bearing to engage. I ended up shimming the pivot ball a great deal and added a spacer behind the throwout bearing itself. Works fine now.
 
PeaceEngineered said:
I do believe you can space out the pivot ball from the bellhousing if pivot ball is on passenger side. That has been a secret in the 5.0 and T5 swaps that I found digging through old archives.
Basically, your clutch fork needs to be perpendicular to the input shaft. You may also use different height/adjustable throw out bearings. Really need to elaborate more on your setup and how you swapped it.
Click to expand...

Yeah this

It’s the **** everyone including myself find out after doing the swap

Fuk, it pissed me off
 
Yeah this

It’s the **** everyone including myself find out after doing the swap

Fuk, it pissed me off
Click to expand...

I bought the little blocks from ben and I ended up not being able to use them.

It was a real slap in the teeth putting the whole thing together and finding out that the clutch wouldn't disengage.
 
Sbabbs. The cable is adjusted son. I'm noob but not that noob.

The cable is adjusted, it just takes THE ENTIRE PEDAL SWEEP to work the thing. When pedal is UP (clutch engaged) I have zero free play and I suspect my TOB is riding the springs. When the pedal is ON THE FLOOR the clutch has JUST fully disengaged (checked with car in the air).

When you guys are "shimming" I think we need to be more specific. There are 2 options.

1. Adding blocks to the TOB to move it closer to the motor correct? This MIGHT help because it would effectively increase the travel because it's on a mid-pivot on the arm.

2. Adjusting the pivot ball. If I were to shim that to be taller (closer to the motor) this would effectively do the same thing as increasing my pedal sweep I suspect. How and how much have you all been shimming?

The reason I was thinking about CNC a piece to extend the pedals arm is also because my hole for the cable didn't line up perfectly. And I'm sick of dropping my trans lol.
 
sbabbs said:
Turd option, your cable is stretching or your cable housing is compressing.
Click to expand...
This, or some other mechanical part having play.

Option 1 and 2 only move the travel one way or the other, travel itself stays the same so the clutch won't fully engage or disengage
 
You will most likely need to put washers (I used 5-6 fairly thick ones) behind the clutch fork pivot ball. I also did something clever with the TOB because I used a stock ford one without any adapter blocks, so it sat very far in, I ended up using a plastic part from the OEM Volvo TOB to make a really snug shim for it. When I get a moment, I might take a picture for you.

How did you get around adapting the TOB. What did you do to make it work.
 
LeedomtoFreedom said:
You will most likely need to put washers (I used 5-6 fairly thick ones) behind the clutch fork pivot ball. I also did something clever with the TOB because I used a stock ford one without any adapter blocks, so it sat very far in, I ended up using a plastic part from the OEM Volvo TOB to make a really snug shim for it. When I get a moment, I might take a picture for you.

How did you get around adapting the TOB. What did you do to make it work.
Click to expand...

I'm on the stock Volvo TOB. Fit fine and with the Deeworks, you use the stock TOB.

The cable is def stretching a bit. Or my adjustment is sliding around.
 
Interesting. I'd shim the pivot ball. That would be my first step. You said it engages only just at the end of the travel. Try to shim with that distance in mind as you don't want to shim it too far and have to take it apart again.
 
Jack said:
Yeah this

It?s the **** everyone including myself find out after doing the swap

Fuk, it pissed me off
Click to expand...
Yepper. Same feeling. It is tough to put together any definitive thread for this topic. Too many different configurations out there. But the spacer is a tough one not to find out about. I hate R&R stuff when I coulda done it "right" the first time.
EivlEvo said:
Sbabbs. The cable is adjusted son. I'm noob but not that noob.

The cable is adjusted, it just takes THE ENTIRE PEDAL SWEEP to work the thing.

2. Adjusting the pivot ball. If I were to shim that to be taller (closer to the motor) this would effectively do the same thing as increasing my pedal sweep I suspect. How and how much have you all been shimming?

The reason I was thinking about CNC a piece to extend the pedals arm is also because my hole for the cable didn't line up perfectly. And I'm sick of dropping my trans lol.
Click to expand...
I would like to see what you come up with on an extension. I have thought of playing with a Mustang clutch quadrant to see if it could be adapted to the 240, but time has gotten in my way. Was going to see if I could get the shift fork positioned more optimally first.
LeedomtoFreedom said:
You will most likely need to put washers (I used 5-6 fairly thick ones) behind the clutch fork pivot ball. I also did something clever with the TOB because I used a stock ford one without any adapter blocks, so it sat very far in, I ended up using a plastic part from the OEM Volvo TOB to make a really snug shim for it. When I get a moment, I might take a picture for you.

How did you get around adapting the TOB. What did you do to make it work.
Click to expand...
I was going to use a 1/4" spacer to start (read that in an old thread). Seems like that is about what you ended up with.
 
So then what's my issue squad?

If I set it so that with the car in the air, my wheels start to spin just as the clutch comes off the floor, there is ZERO play on the fork when the pedal is released. This leads me to believe, I need more pedal sweep.

I can increase sweep by changing my variables. Changing the pivot ball height would do it, but if I'm missing a reason why I SHOULDN'T do this... I'd like to know.

If I extend the pedals arm, this would also do such a thing, but maybe I'm over complicating things if it's as simple as adding a washer?
 
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