In progress update but an update none the less.
I don't have any pictures of the actual rear end I used but you can use your imagination. Plus it's nasty still. It came out of this though:
Behold, the worlds nastiest 1800ES.
I got the tunnel out of it too. Part of me felt bad, but this thing is seriously rusty. Plus there isn't much left on it, it's been a parts car for a long ass time. Low miles though at 87k.
Here's the 4-link kit I bought for it:
It wasn't cheap, but this was one of the only ones I found that had rubber bushings instead of heim joints. Ridetech makes it. I really like the triangulated ones so I can run really tight fender clearance. The shocks will mount behind the rear end where the springs were on the factory trailing arms.
I ordered a set of these as well:
They're made by U.S. Wheel, 16x7 et12, 4x4.5. I'll end up with spacers in the front and adapters in the rear but whatever, it'll be fine. Plus they are only like $130 each. I'm planning on a 205-45-16 tire. The only downside is the damn things are back ordered from the manufacturer, so the 4-link install will have to wait.
The radiator has also been in progress. I ended up with a Griffin radiator that I shamelessly stole from lloyddobler who shamelessly stole it from andrewnance. I really didn't want to make a radiator and this is the best size one you can find on summit.
And it don't fit bad. I am going to seal the front of it with some steel sheet. I made a first piece but my angles were wrong so I don't have much to show other than the template.
Worked on sorting out the pedal position also. I bought a Tilton forged aluminum pedal set. They will move the master cylinders inside the car, and also use a balance bar so I can adjust bias F->R. Still not sure on front brake direction, but the rears will be stock 1800 stuff. Nice doesn't even get close to the quality on these things. The pedals themselves are adjustable in X and Y axes plus the base is adjustable for stroke. I chose them over the wilwoods for that reason. Plus wilwood doesn't offer an accelerator pedal.
The frame will be triangulated from above, they're just chillin' for right now until the tunnel is welded. The firewall is re-enforced with 3/16" plate.
I've been brainstorming an alternator situation also. A lot of the hot rod guys on the interwebz talk of the small size of the Denso style alternators, and I wanted something around 100A since I plan to have this thing on air suspension. I ended up with a '98 Jeep Cherokee unit, and it fits awesome. The Volvo one would only wedge in place, this leaves room for belt adjustment. Just look at the difference in size. An added bonus is the pulley will take the same size belt as the harmonic balancer, there was some serious internet picture scrutiny involved there.
Tonight's work revolved around the driver's side engine mount. It will be incorporated into the alternator mount also, as lloyddubler did. I'm making it out of the same 3/16" plate I used on the firewall. It's a bit long in the front as I don't know the alternator's final spot, but I can cut that later. I'm using 240 passenger side mounts mounted level with the chassis. They'll sit just forward of the cross member similar to how the stock 122 ones are.
Hopefully tomorrow night I can tack it together and get it in it's final position. Right now mounting the engine, trans, and rear are the priorities. Everything else is just making room around them.