1992 240, M47, F+T done by previous owner with a 13c and parts from a '93 940. Bleed valve gives 8psi boost but it's still got the stock n/a exhaust. Not fast, but quick enough.
Suspension:
Koni Sport yellow struts & shocks
7x350lb Eibach coilover springs on the front with Kaplhenke hardware and V1.0 Bne camber plates. Will be using 8x300lb, but I loaned them out so I had to use the 350s. 8x400 was too stiff, 350 is still a bit too stiff for the struts.
IPD rear lowering springs
IPD 28mm front bar
GT firewall braces
Wheels are 16x8 BBS E501, 5x108, ET0, 205/50/16 Hankook RS2. Required centering rings to go from 65.1mm to 67mm (Ferrari). Also required long shank lugnuts with a flat seat and cup washer. The wheels fit well and the tires are awesome in the wet or dry.
Interior had a Sparco Corsa, now a Sparco Evo for comfort to drive to SE.
Soon I'll replace the giant airbag wheel with a smaller Momo leather wheel.
Taillights are from one of the many ebay sellers who offer them. Quality & fit is not great, but they look good right now. They might leak and they might fill with water...will monitor this over the next few weeks. I had to replace one of the turn signal bulbs that was DOA, and it was a dim 10W bulb...so I bought 1156A orange bulbs advertised as 26W and they're bright enough and orange enough behind the clear lens.
Grille is meant for a flat hood and I still need to modify the mounting at the top to poke out with the 86+ hood. Fits with the US headlights after removing the air deflectors from the side of the headlight buckets. Car will get e-codes at some point with 80/100 H4 and relays supplying power from the battery. Have clear corners now for the e-codes, to match the clear rear lenses.
To do:
B cam
replace torn CBV
300lb front springs
Momo steering wheel
M45 shift knob
5bar oil pressure gauge
exhaust (3" downpipe, 2.5" the rest of the way)
decor panel
e-codes
new antenna from MrBill
History:
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117126057/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117126058/large.jpg
Reason for the tow...oil feed broke...
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117054223/medium.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117054103/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117126054/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117126056/large.jpg
With 4 snow tires, I made it through the 20-30" snows last winter
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/121734618/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/121792524/large.jpg
A few weeks ago after lowering (not to spec-max, though)
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/127895983/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/127895985/large.jpg
----------------------------
for Ian:
144,800 New front pads/rotors
--------------------------
2/5/2013, ~183k
replaced front cam seal that was pissing oil. removed busted t-belt backing plate.
--------------------------
3/17/2013: Galaxy!
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/149254595.jpg
--------------------------
(198k -- 2/21/2014)
(199k -- )
(200k -- 4/24/2014)
(201k -- 5/14/2014
(202k -- 6/3/2014)
(203k -- 7/6/2014)
(204k -- 8/8/2015)
--aug 2014 -- 16x7.5 -- conti DW. 204,588mi.
(205k -- 9/2/2014)
(206k -- 9/25/2014)
(207k -- 10/15/2014)
207,625 -- odometer broken 10/24/2014
207,625 --7/4/2015 -- changed trip odometer gear -- ~8500mi
xxx,xxx -- 4/26/2015 -- mobil 1 10w-40 & mobil 1 filter (effectively done at 205k, or ~6k into 8.5k that odo was broken)
(211k -- 11/1/2015)
xxx,xxx -- 11/30/2015 -- passed emissions / inspection
212k -- replaced bosch alt (brushes worn) with 100a denso. needs belts.
213k -- 1/21/2016 -- put on conti snow tires
213,800 -- 1/30/2016 -- trans fluid changed
-- Conti DW = 5.5/32nd front, 6.5/32nd rear.
213,800 -- 1/31/2016 -- front pads, washer fluid motor changed
???,??? -- ?/?/? -- replaced front brake calipers, installed newer pads, one near metal backing plate and piston(s) were seized.
???,??? -- ?/?/? -- replaced inner grease seal, replaced inner bearing, repacked outer bearing, drivers side front wheel. still have noise from warped front rotors, mainly left front .
218,186 -- 7/2/2016 -- swapped drivers side broken motor mount, installed new-looking Diesel mount (same p/n as the broken one). swapped rack with '86-dated rack pulled from crazy ray's. Same Cam style rack as the original, same mounting hardware. Lower u-joint was very sloppy and rack boot had been torn for a long time. Installed new boots. No fluid in the old boots on the junkyard rack, dry inside but with grease on inner tie rods. Installed new Moog outer tie rods. Filled with Type F ATF.
219,750 -- 9/18 - 9/19/2016
Replaced timing belt, installed tensioner that came on the car (supposedly ~5k on it), new continental alternator belts, replaced oil drain hose with 5/8" gates silicone, replaced two small hoses on the oil/water heat exchanger with good volvo brand spares, replaced upper rad hose with good spare and new clamps, replaced leaky water hose to the top side of the turbo, replaced oil filter, replaced Volvo brand water pump with Hepu.
--------------------------
To do - spring 2016 (as of 1/31/2016):
*Updated 7/3/2016 *updated 9/19/2016
*done* passenger side tie rod end
*done* passenger side steering rack boot torn
*done* lower steering shaft u-joint has play
*done* --replace rack & u-joint & boots & tie rod ends, flush system
*half-done (drivers side done, pass side remaining)* repack and adjust front wheel bearings
*done* water pump seeping (~75k+?)
*done* t-belt overdue
*partially done, alt only* v-belts (alt belts worn/old, but still good as of dec '15)
*done* replace oil drain hose
*7/1/2016 parts order from FCP including timing belt, water pump, cap, rotor, plug wires, valve cover gasket.
--------------------------
221k - 10/2/2016
222K - ~11/4/2016
223k - 12/24/2016
224k - 2/8/2017
225k - 4/1/2017
227k - 7/8/2017
227k - July 2017 -- oil / filter change
228k - 8/20/2017
228k - Sep 9, 2017 -- replaced rear u-joint (old was rusty, seized, caused vibration on accel)
229k - 9/29/2017
230k - 10/5/2017
231k - 11/11/2017
232k - 12/17/2017
233k - 1/29/2018
236k - 8/17/2018
236k - Aug 2018 -- replaced rusty rear spring seat
236k - Aug 2018 -- Galaxys -- 225/50/16 Continental ExtremeContact Sport
237k - 9/28/2018
237k - Sep 2018 -- M47 changed to 10w-30 synthetic (1+qt ATF drained). trans noise at idle, ISB? pre-mountain-meet
238k - 9/30/2018 (mountain meet.
238k - Oct 2018 -- oil / filter change (15W-50 M1)
238,600:
Oct 26, 2018 -- intermediate shaft seal popped out...oil everywhere...belts oiled.
Oct 27/28, 2018 -- replaced intermediate shaft seal, cam seal, valve cover gasket. installed IPD Turbo cam, measured shims / clearances to order thicker shims.
Nov 2, 2018 -- shimmed IPD Turbo cam, replaced valve cover gasket again, replaced cam seal again, replaced timing belt (conti) & tensioner (meyle). Replaced PS belt and alternator belts (AC belt remains, could not loosen adjuster to install new belt).
*some noise at idle, louder when revving in neutral. new belt/tensioner?*
--update 1/7/2019 - don't notice the t-belt / tensioner noise at idle anymore--
239k - 11/29/2018
239,227 -- Installed clocked 15g rebuilt by g-pop shop, retained same slightly cracked 90+, new exh man gaskets.
239,650 -- 1/5/2019 - 1/6/2019 -- replaced rear rotors (raybestos, rock auto), rear calipers (A-1 Cardone, rock auto), rear pads (ATE), and front pads (PBR ultimate). New rear hardware, half new front hardware (need to replace pins next time). Flushed fluid w/ATE gold. Front pads worn evenly to 1-2mm. LR parking brake adjustment stuck, caused new rotor to drag. Loosened up and lubed pivot and then it fit back together.
240k - 2/3/2019
240,242 -- compression check (warm), 148, 155, 158, 160psi (cyl 1-4). Retested #1 at the end, still came up a little lower than the rest so not an issue of battery or not cranking long enough.
Checked plugs, left them in (NGK BPR6EY). Replaced plug wires / coil wire with NGK silicone. Swapped back to the original coil, the coil wire didn't fit properly with the other coil. Installed ball & spring MBC, boost goes to end of the yellow (240T intercooler gauge, ~10psi). Fixed oil pressure warning light wire, found sender loose, o-ring crushed/turned to plastic. Replaced o-ring.
241k
242k
243k
244k
-wire broke at diff, ABS light on, speedo/odo stopped. ~300 miles? Fixed at mountain meet, 9/27/2019
-pass. side tail/brake light intermittent. found holder melted, socket hole melted. ordered new bulb holders, bought bulbs, new holder won't fit melted hole. adjusted bulb in melted housing, working again.
-pass. side headlight stopped working. found loose connector.
245k -- Sep 29, 2019
246k -- Oct 18, 2019
247k -- Oct 22, 2019
248k -- Dec 2, 2019
249k -- Jan 12, 2020 -- M47 clanking. Countershaft? Started clicking sound in gear, lift-off coasting, all gears but 4th. 1/14, noise while driving in 1st-3rd, quiet in 4th.
250k -- Jun 17, 2020
251,xxx -- Jan 3, 2021
-15w-50 M1, Mann filter, new copper crush ring. Previous change was Oct. 2018.
-Replaced pass. side ball joint that had slop (new Moog ball joint provided by Bne, to be reimbursed or replaced with another new pass. side).
-discovered rack has play. pass side inner tie rod tight, drivers side pivots freely so not like-new, but no play.
-replaced rear springs (removed cut overload spring on stacked upper rear perches), 13x150lb eibach 5" with flipped upper steel spring seats on the bottom, and bne aluminum adjustable perches on top, slightly preloaded for max height.
252k -- April 24, 2021
252,126 - May 17, 2021
July 19 2021 -- washed car/wheels
Aug/Sep 2021 -- Swapped out the worn out Sparco Evo for the nicer Evo out of the pass. side of the '87. Sold old Evo for $60 (Miata guy) and sold some Simpsons harnesses to NeonSRT4 guy for $30 (both sets, everything).
9/18 - 9/19 /2021 -- Removed Cam rack & PS pump. Re-installed same pump (brackets different from ones on the '87). Installed ZF power rack from '87. New Redline syn fluid. New rack boots. Installed 28mm front bar. Dr. side rear bolt hole stripped, U-bracket on sway bar. yellow endlink bushings on the bottom, junk. Toe set to ~1/8" in (67-3/4" front, 67-7/8" rear). Rotated pass side wheels. Dr side rear stuck.
to-do:
cleaned orange injectors
intake manifold gasket
new pcv box
throttle body gasket
swap intercooler to NPR (or from '87)
change radiator + hoses + t-stat
strut inserts -- Bilstein HD revalve
rear shocks -- Bilstein HD revalve (update 9/20/2021 -- to be installed, revalved from '87)
stiffer front springs -- 8" x 400lb?
swap one headlight to e-code
washer fluid pump bracket
decor panel re-install
swap grille
install scraper seals
front control arm box + bushings (from '87)
oil pressure gauge
battery hold down.
DONE:
new battery? -- done dec 2020
replace rear springs + adjustable mounts -- done 1/3/2021!
==================++++++++++++++++++++==================
Nov 3, 2018 -- C30 oil change (k&n filter + 5w-30 M1), front brakes (zimmerman rotors + volvo pads).
Oct 5, 2019 -- C30 rear control arms - SPC adj. + replaced tag lights + installed 100k badge. 106,400.
June 2021 -- Driver side mirror broken June 6 in Philly. T-shirt. Zip ties. New housing Tasca. Swap motor, glass, turn signal, lower trim on mirror, white top housing (one tab superglued, cracked not broken off). ~$90.
July 2022 -- oil change due
==================++++++++++++++++++++==================
E36
Fuel hose from line to filter replaced June 2021. Cohline 7,5mm x 13,5mm. Not sold by BMW dealer, part not found in catalog (image shows the hose, NLA, they don't sell bulk hose)
134,536 -- July 2, 2022 -- Changed oil & filter. Castrol syn 5w-40. Mahle oil filter. Re-aimed windshield washer nozzles, topped up fluid. Added a splash of distilled water to cooling system.
==================++++++++++++++++++++==================
Impreza
May 1, 2021 -- ~96k -- pass side rear hub replacement. Autozone part, complete hub with integrated bearing, with new studs.
*SOLD* Did brakes all around. And one oil change with M1 0w-20 + M1 filter.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
BBS E50 wheel PM: determining offset of E50 / E501 wheels:
I'm not certain, I think the only difference between E50 and E501 is that the bolts go in from the back and thread into the wheel center, which probably has pressed-in inserts. The E50 uses a bolt & nut with washer, bolt goes in from the front, nut on the back.
Do you know the width of the front side rim half and the back side? Mine were both 4" halves, making an 8" wheel. The wheel center was stacked on top of the flanges of the rim halves, and the wheel center didn't have a whole lot of height where it would attach to the hub, just enough to make it roughly ET0.
If you're looking at 7.5" wheels, they could be 4" inners and 3.5" outers. The hub mounting face roughly aligns with the plane of the flange that mates to the rim halves, so the wheel offset will be determined by the width of the rim halves. (If this part doesn't make sense or you're not following, let me know and I'll see if I can illustrate it and/or take a couple photos of my E50s)
In this case, it would end up being close to 6mm offset if the inner rim is 4" and the outer is 3.5" wide. I just drew the widths on paper and verified. Draw the 4" width, then the 3.5" width, to make a 7.5" total width. The hub mounting face will be aligned with the point where the rim halves meet...4" from the back side of the wheel. Now find the center point (7" x 2 = 3.75"). The difference is the offset...0.25". Or 6mm.
If the inner rim is instead 4.5" and the outer is 3", to make the total width 7.5, then the offset is 18mm. The midpoint is where the rim halves meet, 4.5" from the back of the rim. The center is still 3.75" (7/2=3.75). The offset is then 0.75" (4.5 - 3.75)...or ~18mm.
So just verify the widths of the rim halves and you can verify the offset is what is stamped on the wheel center. Because these are easily reconfigured, they could have been changed over the years and the offset may not be 18mm. I changed mine from 15" (forget the original widths) to 17x11 with new rim halves. Here's one of mine that has the GM bolt pattern on it, but doesn't have anything that looks like an offset. These were used for racing, so it's possible they never had an offset if they were just sold as the centers, and the owner could decide on the rim sizes independently.
I was using 16x7.5 ET20 TSW wheels on my '92 240 for a while, with 225/50/16, so these wheels you're looking at should work fine.
I briefly ran these 16x8 ET0 E501 with 205/45 (car wasn't very low at the time, so the tire was a bit short)
205/45 gave a very straight sidewall on the 8" wheel. This is the ideal fit for the wheel width, but 225 will certainly fit and go on a 7.5", and will put more rubber on the road. 225/45 being slightly shorter than the 225/50 I used recently shouldn't require too much rolling, just the area above the mudflap on the rear where it commonly rubs. I knock it in with a sledge hammer, but it will crack the paint a bit. Looks fine from the outside though.
The other factor to consider is the diameter of the centerbore. I think the Ferrari is 67.1mm vs. 65.1mm for Volvo (other than some like S40 that are 63.x or XC90 that are larger than 65.1). I used centering rings.
This isn't a great picture, but it kind of shows the area that's 67.1mm diameter is only about 10-15mm deep into the wheel. After that, it steps down to a diameter less than 65mm. The 240 front hub needs the 65.1mm centerbore to be at least ~18mm deep into the wheel. So had I tried to put this wheel straight onto my 240, the stepped lip inside the wheel centerbore would hit on the 240 hub, before the wheel mates flat to the brake rotor hat. No good. To get around this, I used a die grinder & carbide burr (air powered) to carve away some material and approximately match the 67.1mm centerbore, but just on the stepped part. I didn't touch the precisely machined 67.1mm centerbore for the first ~15mm of depth.
Also check the lug holes, are they tapered seats or flat? You may need the long shank lugs that use a washer under the head, and mate to a flat surface on the wheel. This photo also shows one of the lugnuts in place, to confirm it's not going to bottom out on the base of the wheel stud, since it's not poking through the wheel.
My E50 wheels were like this, too. The lug hole is very large, so the shank part of the lugnut goes down into the hole and I think that is what centers the E50 wheels. Mine have huge centerbores, like 75mm+, and I don't even know if they are centered or not, so those wheels are aligned by the lugs.
My E501 (the gold centers above) had the precise Ferrari centerbore, so those were centered via centering rings, but the shank lugs fit pretty close in the lug holes. Unless someone was running the wheels on a Volvo 240 already and provides the lugs, you probably should wait til you have the wheels in hand and can measure the lug hole diameter & depth to pick the right lugnuts. I bought mine from Summit Racing, they had lots of different sizes in 1/2x20 thread pitch.
If you get the wheels and they have no tires, take a look at the inside where the rim halves meet. There shouldn't be any bead of sealant there. These wheels use a "seal ring" sandwiched between the rim halves, and there's a big o-ring that fits in a groove on the seal ring, and when it's all bolted together, that's what creates the seal. One of mine had some red RTV on it from someone trying to fix a leak. You can buy new o-rings and I think new seal rings too (the ring is aluminum if I'm not mistaken, so they can be reused). I reused the o-rings when I did my wheel assembly and they sealed up fine after I picked off the old sealer/gunk.
The real struggle to that process is getting the o-ring to sit in the groove and stay in place. I stretched the o-rings over the 15" wheel rims I had (you could probably stretch them around the wheel center as well), and then I used a Permatex product called High Tack (or super high tack), used to adhere gaskets or o-rings in place for assembly. Messy but effective! I may have also put a coat of Hylomar (like a blue gel, non-setting gasket sealer) on the o-rings after the high-tack was set and the o-rings were held in place. Hylomar is great if you can find it in a tube. It's non-setting, so you can apply it to gaskets and then they come apart clean.
Let me know if you have any more questions, glad to help.
Suspension:
Koni Sport yellow struts & shocks
7x350lb Eibach coilover springs on the front with Kaplhenke hardware and V1.0 Bne camber plates. Will be using 8x300lb, but I loaned them out so I had to use the 350s. 8x400 was too stiff, 350 is still a bit too stiff for the struts.
IPD rear lowering springs
IPD 28mm front bar
GT firewall braces
Wheels are 16x8 BBS E501, 5x108, ET0, 205/50/16 Hankook RS2. Required centering rings to go from 65.1mm to 67mm (Ferrari). Also required long shank lugnuts with a flat seat and cup washer. The wheels fit well and the tires are awesome in the wet or dry.
Interior had a Sparco Corsa, now a Sparco Evo for comfort to drive to SE.
Soon I'll replace the giant airbag wheel with a smaller Momo leather wheel.Taillights are from one of the many ebay sellers who offer them. Quality & fit is not great, but they look good right now. They might leak and they might fill with water...will monitor this over the next few weeks. I had to replace one of the turn signal bulbs that was DOA, and it was a dim 10W bulb...so I bought 1156A orange bulbs advertised as 26W and they're bright enough and orange enough behind the clear lens.
Grille is meant for a flat hood and I still need to modify the mounting at the top to poke out with the 86+ hood. Fits with the US headlights after removing the air deflectors from the side of the headlight buckets. Car will get e-codes at some point with 80/100 H4 and relays supplying power from the battery. Have clear corners now for the e-codes, to match the clear rear lenses.
To do:
B cam
replace torn CBV
300lb front springs
Momo steering wheel
M45 shift knob
5bar oil pressure gauge
exhaust (3" downpipe, 2.5" the rest of the way)
decor panel
e-codes
new antenna from MrBill
History:
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117126057/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117126058/large.jpg
Reason for the tow...oil feed broke...
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117054223/medium.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117054103/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117126054/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/117126056/large.jpg
With 4 snow tires, I made it through the 20-30" snows last winter
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/121734618/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/121792524/large.jpg
A few weeks ago after lowering (not to spec-max, though)
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/127895983/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/127895985/large.jpg
----------------------------
for Ian:
144,800 New front pads/rotors
--------------------------
2/5/2013, ~183k
replaced front cam seal that was pissing oil. removed busted t-belt backing plate.
--------------------------
3/17/2013: Galaxy!
http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/image/149254595.jpg
--------------------------
(198k -- 2/21/2014)
(199k -- )
(200k -- 4/24/2014)
(201k -- 5/14/2014
(202k -- 6/3/2014)
(203k -- 7/6/2014)
(204k -- 8/8/2015)
--aug 2014 -- 16x7.5 -- conti DW. 204,588mi.
(205k -- 9/2/2014)
(206k -- 9/25/2014)
(207k -- 10/15/2014)
207,625 -- odometer broken 10/24/2014
207,625 --7/4/2015 -- changed trip odometer gear -- ~8500mi
xxx,xxx -- 4/26/2015 -- mobil 1 10w-40 & mobil 1 filter (effectively done at 205k, or ~6k into 8.5k that odo was broken)
(211k -- 11/1/2015)
xxx,xxx -- 11/30/2015 -- passed emissions / inspection
212k -- replaced bosch alt (brushes worn) with 100a denso. needs belts.
213k -- 1/21/2016 -- put on conti snow tires
213,800 -- 1/30/2016 -- trans fluid changed
-- Conti DW = 5.5/32nd front, 6.5/32nd rear.
213,800 -- 1/31/2016 -- front pads, washer fluid motor changed
???,??? -- ?/?/? -- replaced front brake calipers, installed newer pads, one near metal backing plate and piston(s) were seized.
???,??? -- ?/?/? -- replaced inner grease seal, replaced inner bearing, repacked outer bearing, drivers side front wheel. still have noise from warped front rotors, mainly left front .
218,186 -- 7/2/2016 -- swapped drivers side broken motor mount, installed new-looking Diesel mount (same p/n as the broken one). swapped rack with '86-dated rack pulled from crazy ray's. Same Cam style rack as the original, same mounting hardware. Lower u-joint was very sloppy and rack boot had been torn for a long time. Installed new boots. No fluid in the old boots on the junkyard rack, dry inside but with grease on inner tie rods. Installed new Moog outer tie rods. Filled with Type F ATF.
219,750 -- 9/18 - 9/19/2016
Replaced timing belt, installed tensioner that came on the car (supposedly ~5k on it), new continental alternator belts, replaced oil drain hose with 5/8" gates silicone, replaced two small hoses on the oil/water heat exchanger with good volvo brand spares, replaced upper rad hose with good spare and new clamps, replaced leaky water hose to the top side of the turbo, replaced oil filter, replaced Volvo brand water pump with Hepu.
--------------------------
To do - spring 2016 (as of 1/31/2016):
*Updated 7/3/2016 *updated 9/19/2016
*done* passenger side tie rod end
*done* passenger side steering rack boot torn
*done* lower steering shaft u-joint has play
*done* --replace rack & u-joint & boots & tie rod ends, flush system
*half-done (drivers side done, pass side remaining)* repack and adjust front wheel bearings
*done* water pump seeping (~75k+?)
*done* t-belt overdue
*partially done, alt only* v-belts (alt belts worn/old, but still good as of dec '15)
*done* replace oil drain hose
*7/1/2016 parts order from FCP including timing belt, water pump, cap, rotor, plug wires, valve cover gasket.
--------------------------
221k - 10/2/2016
222K - ~11/4/2016
223k - 12/24/2016
224k - 2/8/2017
225k - 4/1/2017
227k - 7/8/2017
227k - July 2017 -- oil / filter change
228k - 8/20/2017
228k - Sep 9, 2017 -- replaced rear u-joint (old was rusty, seized, caused vibration on accel)
229k - 9/29/2017
230k - 10/5/2017
231k - 11/11/2017
232k - 12/17/2017
233k - 1/29/2018
236k - 8/17/2018
236k - Aug 2018 -- replaced rusty rear spring seat
236k - Aug 2018 -- Galaxys -- 225/50/16 Continental ExtremeContact Sport
237k - 9/28/2018
237k - Sep 2018 -- M47 changed to 10w-30 synthetic (1+qt ATF drained). trans noise at idle, ISB? pre-mountain-meet
238k - 9/30/2018 (mountain meet.
238k - Oct 2018 -- oil / filter change (15W-50 M1)
238,600:
Oct 26, 2018 -- intermediate shaft seal popped out...oil everywhere...belts oiled.
Oct 27/28, 2018 -- replaced intermediate shaft seal, cam seal, valve cover gasket. installed IPD Turbo cam, measured shims / clearances to order thicker shims.
Nov 2, 2018 -- shimmed IPD Turbo cam, replaced valve cover gasket again, replaced cam seal again, replaced timing belt (conti) & tensioner (meyle). Replaced PS belt and alternator belts (AC belt remains, could not loosen adjuster to install new belt).
*some noise at idle, louder when revving in neutral. new belt/tensioner?*
--update 1/7/2019 - don't notice the t-belt / tensioner noise at idle anymore--
239k - 11/29/2018
239,227 -- Installed clocked 15g rebuilt by g-pop shop, retained same slightly cracked 90+, new exh man gaskets.
239,650 -- 1/5/2019 - 1/6/2019 -- replaced rear rotors (raybestos, rock auto), rear calipers (A-1 Cardone, rock auto), rear pads (ATE), and front pads (PBR ultimate). New rear hardware, half new front hardware (need to replace pins next time). Flushed fluid w/ATE gold. Front pads worn evenly to 1-2mm. LR parking brake adjustment stuck, caused new rotor to drag. Loosened up and lubed pivot and then it fit back together.
240k - 2/3/2019
240,242 -- compression check (warm), 148, 155, 158, 160psi (cyl 1-4). Retested #1 at the end, still came up a little lower than the rest so not an issue of battery or not cranking long enough.
Checked plugs, left them in (NGK BPR6EY). Replaced plug wires / coil wire with NGK silicone. Swapped back to the original coil, the coil wire didn't fit properly with the other coil. Installed ball & spring MBC, boost goes to end of the yellow (240T intercooler gauge, ~10psi). Fixed oil pressure warning light wire, found sender loose, o-ring crushed/turned to plastic. Replaced o-ring.
241k
242k
243k
244k
-wire broke at diff, ABS light on, speedo/odo stopped. ~300 miles? Fixed at mountain meet, 9/27/2019
-pass. side tail/brake light intermittent. found holder melted, socket hole melted. ordered new bulb holders, bought bulbs, new holder won't fit melted hole. adjusted bulb in melted housing, working again.
-pass. side headlight stopped working. found loose connector.
245k -- Sep 29, 2019
246k -- Oct 18, 2019
247k -- Oct 22, 2019
248k -- Dec 2, 2019
249k -- Jan 12, 2020 -- M47 clanking. Countershaft? Started clicking sound in gear, lift-off coasting, all gears but 4th. 1/14, noise while driving in 1st-3rd, quiet in 4th.
250k -- Jun 17, 2020
251,xxx -- Jan 3, 2021
-15w-50 M1, Mann filter, new copper crush ring. Previous change was Oct. 2018.
-Replaced pass. side ball joint that had slop (new Moog ball joint provided by Bne, to be reimbursed or replaced with another new pass. side).
-discovered rack has play. pass side inner tie rod tight, drivers side pivots freely so not like-new, but no play.
-replaced rear springs (removed cut overload spring on stacked upper rear perches), 13x150lb eibach 5" with flipped upper steel spring seats on the bottom, and bne aluminum adjustable perches on top, slightly preloaded for max height.
252k -- April 24, 2021
252,126 - May 17, 2021
July 19 2021 -- washed car/wheels
Aug/Sep 2021 -- Swapped out the worn out Sparco Evo for the nicer Evo out of the pass. side of the '87. Sold old Evo for $60 (Miata guy) and sold some Simpsons harnesses to NeonSRT4 guy for $30 (both sets, everything).
9/18 - 9/19 /2021 -- Removed Cam rack & PS pump. Re-installed same pump (brackets different from ones on the '87). Installed ZF power rack from '87. New Redline syn fluid. New rack boots. Installed 28mm front bar. Dr. side rear bolt hole stripped, U-bracket on sway bar. yellow endlink bushings on the bottom, junk. Toe set to ~1/8" in (67-3/4" front, 67-7/8" rear). Rotated pass side wheels. Dr side rear stuck.
to-do:
cleaned orange injectors
intake manifold gasket
new pcv box
throttle body gasket
swap intercooler to NPR (or from '87)
change radiator + hoses + t-stat
strut inserts -- Bilstein HD revalve
rear shocks -- Bilstein HD revalve (update 9/20/2021 -- to be installed, revalved from '87)
stiffer front springs -- 8" x 400lb?
swap one headlight to e-code
washer fluid pump bracket
decor panel re-install
swap grille
install scraper seals
front control arm box + bushings (from '87)
oil pressure gauge
battery hold down.
DONE:
new battery? -- done dec 2020
replace rear springs + adjustable mounts -- done 1/3/2021!
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Nov 3, 2018 -- C30 oil change (k&n filter + 5w-30 M1), front brakes (zimmerman rotors + volvo pads).
Oct 5, 2019 -- C30 rear control arms - SPC adj. + replaced tag lights + installed 100k badge. 106,400.
June 2021 -- Driver side mirror broken June 6 in Philly. T-shirt. Zip ties. New housing Tasca. Swap motor, glass, turn signal, lower trim on mirror, white top housing (one tab superglued, cracked not broken off). ~$90.
July 2022 -- oil change due
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E36
Fuel hose from line to filter replaced June 2021. Cohline 7,5mm x 13,5mm. Not sold by BMW dealer, part not found in catalog (image shows the hose, NLA, they don't sell bulk hose)
134,536 -- July 2, 2022 -- Changed oil & filter. Castrol syn 5w-40. Mahle oil filter. Re-aimed windshield washer nozzles, topped up fluid. Added a splash of distilled water to cooling system.
==================++++++++++++++++++++==================
Impreza
May 1, 2021 -- ~96k -- pass side rear hub replacement. Autozone part, complete hub with integrated bearing, with new studs.
*SOLD* Did brakes all around. And one oil change with M1 0w-20 + M1 filter.
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BBS E50 wheel PM: determining offset of E50 / E501 wheels:
I currently have a set of E50 that I bought as 15", but changed to 17" with new rim halves. I used to have a set of 16x8 E501, but I sold those.bkaushansky said:
I'm not certain, I think the only difference between E50 and E501 is that the bolts go in from the back and thread into the wheel center, which probably has pressed-in inserts. The E50 uses a bolt & nut with washer, bolt goes in from the front, nut on the back.
Do you know the width of the front side rim half and the back side? Mine were both 4" halves, making an 8" wheel. The wheel center was stacked on top of the flanges of the rim halves, and the wheel center didn't have a whole lot of height where it would attach to the hub, just enough to make it roughly ET0.
If you're looking at 7.5" wheels, they could be 4" inners and 3.5" outers. The hub mounting face roughly aligns with the plane of the flange that mates to the rim halves, so the wheel offset will be determined by the width of the rim halves. (If this part doesn't make sense or you're not following, let me know and I'll see if I can illustrate it and/or take a couple photos of my E50s)
In this case, it would end up being close to 6mm offset if the inner rim is 4" and the outer is 3.5" wide. I just drew the widths on paper and verified. Draw the 4" width, then the 3.5" width, to make a 7.5" total width. The hub mounting face will be aligned with the point where the rim halves meet...4" from the back side of the wheel. Now find the center point (7" x 2 = 3.75"). The difference is the offset...0.25". Or 6mm.
If the inner rim is instead 4.5" and the outer is 3", to make the total width 7.5, then the offset is 18mm. The midpoint is where the rim halves meet, 4.5" from the back of the rim. The center is still 3.75" (7/2=3.75). The offset is then 0.75" (4.5 - 3.75)...or ~18mm.
So just verify the widths of the rim halves and you can verify the offset is what is stamped on the wheel center. Because these are easily reconfigured, they could have been changed over the years and the offset may not be 18mm. I changed mine from 15" (forget the original widths) to 17x11 with new rim halves. Here's one of mine that has the GM bolt pattern on it, but doesn't have anything that looks like an offset. These were used for racing, so it's possible they never had an offset if they were just sold as the centers, and the owner could decide on the rim sizes independently.
I was using 16x7.5 ET20 TSW wheels on my '92 240 for a while, with 225/50/16, so these wheels you're looking at should work fine.
I briefly ran these 16x8 ET0 E501 with 205/45 (car wasn't very low at the time, so the tire was a bit short)
205/45 gave a very straight sidewall on the 8" wheel. This is the ideal fit for the wheel width, but 225 will certainly fit and go on a 7.5", and will put more rubber on the road. 225/45 being slightly shorter than the 225/50 I used recently shouldn't require too much rolling, just the area above the mudflap on the rear where it commonly rubs. I knock it in with a sledge hammer, but it will crack the paint a bit. Looks fine from the outside though.
The other factor to consider is the diameter of the centerbore. I think the Ferrari is 67.1mm vs. 65.1mm for Volvo (other than some like S40 that are 63.x or XC90 that are larger than 65.1). I used centering rings.
This isn't a great picture, but it kind of shows the area that's 67.1mm diameter is only about 10-15mm deep into the wheel. After that, it steps down to a diameter less than 65mm. The 240 front hub needs the 65.1mm centerbore to be at least ~18mm deep into the wheel. So had I tried to put this wheel straight onto my 240, the stepped lip inside the wheel centerbore would hit on the 240 hub, before the wheel mates flat to the brake rotor hat. No good. To get around this, I used a die grinder & carbide burr (air powered) to carve away some material and approximately match the 67.1mm centerbore, but just on the stepped part. I didn't touch the precisely machined 67.1mm centerbore for the first ~15mm of depth.
Also check the lug holes, are they tapered seats or flat? You may need the long shank lugs that use a washer under the head, and mate to a flat surface on the wheel. This photo also shows one of the lugnuts in place, to confirm it's not going to bottom out on the base of the wheel stud, since it's not poking through the wheel.
My E50 wheels were like this, too. The lug hole is very large, so the shank part of the lugnut goes down into the hole and I think that is what centers the E50 wheels. Mine have huge centerbores, like 75mm+, and I don't even know if they are centered or not, so those wheels are aligned by the lugs.
My E501 (the gold centers above) had the precise Ferrari centerbore, so those were centered via centering rings, but the shank lugs fit pretty close in the lug holes. Unless someone was running the wheels on a Volvo 240 already and provides the lugs, you probably should wait til you have the wheels in hand and can measure the lug hole diameter & depth to pick the right lugnuts. I bought mine from Summit Racing, they had lots of different sizes in 1/2x20 thread pitch.
If you get the wheels and they have no tires, take a look at the inside where the rim halves meet. There shouldn't be any bead of sealant there. These wheels use a "seal ring" sandwiched between the rim halves, and there's a big o-ring that fits in a groove on the seal ring, and when it's all bolted together, that's what creates the seal. One of mine had some red RTV on it from someone trying to fix a leak. You can buy new o-rings and I think new seal rings too (the ring is aluminum if I'm not mistaken, so they can be reused). I reused the o-rings when I did my wheel assembly and they sealed up fine after I picked off the old sealer/gunk.
The real struggle to that process is getting the o-ring to sit in the groove and stay in place. I stretched the o-rings over the 15" wheel rims I had (you could probably stretch them around the wheel center as well), and then I used a Permatex product called High Tack (or super high tack), used to adhere gaskets or o-rings in place for assembly. Messy but effective! I may have also put a coat of Hylomar (like a blue gel, non-setting gasket sealer) on the o-rings after the high-tack was set and the o-rings were held in place. Hylomar is great if you can find it in a tube. It's non-setting, so you can apply it to gaskets and then they come apart clean.
Let me know if you have any more questions, glad to help.
