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Official LH2.4 EZK Wasted Spark Conversion - Installation Instructions

Its alive! Main problem seemed to be the spark banks where round the wrong way. I double checked against the diagrams, seemed to be right but not sure what went wrong, no details on the coil datasheet unfortunately.

Still only seeing just over 3V at new and old spark logic outputs but seems to work. The single spark feed seems to give 5V for first half a pulse and thereafter 3V.

Anyone else measured this?

3v while running measured at the spark output is consistent with what I measured, pulses are too quick to be picked up with a dvom, so I only measured to make sure I had anything there when I was troubleshooting mine.

And if you're using buchka's spark board, a lot of the older ones had the spark outputs switched around, so it wouldn't run unless 1-4 and 2-3 were wired up backwards :grrr:

But I guess switching your channels at the amplifier would solve that problem as well
 
3v while running measured at the spark output is consistent with what I measured, pulses are too quick to be picked up with a dvom, so I only measured to make sure I had anything there when I was troubleshooting mine.

I used a picoscope and got the waveform, still looks low to me, stressing the micro? but worked at the time, won't run it again yet for any length of time until I finish the plumbing.
 
I used a picoscope and got the waveform, still looks low to me, stressing the micro? but worked at the time, won't run it again yet for any length of time until I finish the plumbing.

I doubt anything's stressed on the board, mine's been running a good while now with less hiccups than the stock system. And I screwed with it for a pretty good while between two different sets of coils, one with a control circuit that was pulled high and the set I have now that gets pulled low, and screwing with dwell for a long time as well. All in all it seems to be a well-made, robust little board.

It survived some water inrusion as well :lol:
 
I've the car on the road now but having some problems with idle speed, maybe unrelated to the Buchka board. It won't revert to the proper speed after a cold start (I have a speed sensor) until you reset the computer by switching off and restarting

I have noticed that the board can get confused if you turn the ignition off/on too quickly, seems to only fire one bank. Needs to be reset by the key. Does it need a reset device, or is it a software issue missing counts or something? Could I have the wrong supply connected (using igniton 12 instead on permanent 12 somewhere)?
 
I've the car on the road now but having some problems with idle speed, maybe unrelated to the Buchka board. It won't revert to the proper speed after a cold start (I have a speed sensor) until you reset the computer by switching off and restarting

I have noticed that the board can get confused if you turn the ignition off/on too quickly, seems to only fire one bank. Needs to be reset by the key. Does it need a reset device, or is it a software issue missing counts or something? Could I have the wrong supply connected (using igniton 12 instead on permanent 12 somewhere)?

Is your coil signal low reference fed back to a ground inside the ezk or is it grounded to the engine/frame?
 
I've the car on the road now but having some problems with idle speed, maybe unrelated to the Buchka board. It won't revert to the proper speed after a cold start (I have a speed sensor) until you reset the computer by switching off and restarting

I have noticed that the board can get confused if you turn the ignition off/on too quickly, seems to only fire one bank. Needs to be reset by the key. Does it need a reset device, or is it a software issue missing counts or something? Could I have the wrong supply connected (using igniton 12 instead on permanent 12 somewhere)?

The odds of the wasted spark board being behind your idle speed issue is very small.

What frequency of key on-key off causes it to only fire on one bank?
 
Karl,
Do you know where to getr the connectors for the Bosch coilpack and the 203 module?

The Bosch coil uses a standard 3-pin junior power timer connector and the 203 module uses a 7-pin connector of the same series They're available new from Mouser.com.
 
1990 740T,
Got my board and installed it. Used pins 14 and 15 of the EZK to feed the ignition signals out, snipped them from the board inside since this one has the electronics for the EGR. those run to a nice 2 pin connector on the left strut tower! no additional wiring needed.
Any suggestions on where to mount the module? I want to keep the original for the tach. I was thinking of getting a heatsink and mounting it near the old one and bolting the module to that. Need to figure out a mount now for the coil as well...
Any and all suggestions welcome
 
ok. Mounted the module, wired it up, even ohmed everything out to make sure I had it all correct. fired it briefly on stock, all good. put relay coil in place of the ignition coil, and put plug wires on coilpack. took forever cranking to get it to start, and when it did, it wouldnt stay running, and was really rough. swapped wires at the coil... backfires... back to the original way. double and triple checked... still runs like ****, if I get it to stay running, i have to hold the throttle open, which is a task of itself... barely touching the throttle and it tries to die... checked spark at the coil itself... very weak and short spark... took voltmeter and checked to make sure when I was able to get it running that I had battery voltage at the coil.. checked my ground while it was running between the block and the module... 0.018 volts...
I checked the inputs, factory, 1-3 and 2-4 for voltage while running... I know they are pulsed, but wanted to see the average. factory was between 0.7 and 0.8, both the wasted spark inputs were between 0.3 and 0.5... Pulled the EZK and made sure I was wired in at the board properly, all was good there as well...
Any suggestions? this is with the 203 module, brand new, and the bosch 407 coil, also brand new...
Thanks
 
Nevermind... I'm a tool...
had the + to the bosch coil connected to the TACH side of the relay... now it's on the power side, and I have a really hot blue spark! didn't fire it, left the wires disconnected... too dark and cold. will get back on it in the morning...
 
ok. so weather is supposed to be heavy rain and cold this morning... temporarily mounted the coil bracket and coil, switched over to waste spark and went for a drive... first thing I noticed is my little hesitation on tip in from idle is gone...cruising nice and smooth, no surprises... several small bursts of boost after it was fully warm, felt a little less "jerky" when it came up on boost... cranked it to 15 PSI and let it fly up my favorite freeway onramp. straight, on dry pavement, I nailed it in 1st. when the boost crossed about 12PSI, it broke the back end loose for about a second then hit 2nd gear. shift wasn't as harsh as before... smoother, no clunk. 2nd to 3rd at 6500 RPM without any breaking up like it was doing with the stock ignition at about 5500 RPM at 15PSI. backed out at 110 in OD and it was still pulling... power didn't feel like it just fell off after about 5000-5500 or so... I'm impressed and will see what mileage changes (If any) I see after my next couple tanks of gas...
 
Is this a dead (NLA) item now? Now that I have a viable EZK116 setup, eliminating the dist/cap/rotor wear items seems like a good idea...

BTI doesn't list it on their website, and reading through this I assume Karl no longer produces the boards?
 
Is this a dead (NLA) item now? Now that I have a viable EZK116 setup, eliminating the dist/cap/rotor wear items seems like a good idea...

BTI doesn't list it on their website, and reading through this I assume Karl no longer produces the boards?

BTI still has the boards, I inquired a few days ago. info a bijlsmatechnicalinnovations dot nl
 
I just got my board from Karl about a month ago. It's installed. Runs great!

Did you message him via TB? I did send him a PM, but that was only a few days ago, given the holidays he may not be checking in. I'll wait to see if he gets back to me before going the overseas source route.
 
May also want to try the email in his profile. I know he has a lot going on at work right now and is putting in some long hours.
 
Plus when I checked with the overseas vendor, they wanted like 400 USD for it... Karl wants 65... I need to go find my emails for the coil and module... most places get over 100 for each, but I got both total for less than that, brand new
 
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