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Adj. Torque rods install Q

9

92White240

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Mar 27, 2020
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pnw
I'm probably missing something stupidly obvious as I've never seen this question asked. Anyway, was in the process of lowering my 244, and when I had the shocks off I thought I might as well install my IPD torque rods. I set them to my best guess, about 10mm shorter than stock, and, obviously the holes didn't line up. Is this because the car wasn't already lowered? How do I install them shortened? Don't want to drive on a misaligned rear axle much longer. Also, going to do the panhard bar soon, how do I get the shortened one in? Thanks for dealing with my incompetence.
 
Set your eye to eye measurements the same as on the original parts. The springs are in charge of the ride height, and the beefy ipd stuff helps control the flexing of the components they are replacing. The panhard rod will adjust the left/right alignment of the axle, so, presumably if the stock bar was close to factory, which it should certainly be, then the replacement p-bar, set to the same eye to eye distance should be very close to what you need. A final bit of advice; don't tighten up all your bolts for upper and lower control arms and panhard bar until you have the vehicle weight on the axle, not the jackstands supporting the rear of the vehicle.
 
benski said:
Set your eye to eye measurements the same as on the original parts. The springs are in charge of the ride height, and the beefy ipd stuff helps control the flexing of the components they are replacing. The panhard rod will adjust the left/right alignment of the axle, so, presumably if the stock bar was close to factory, which it should certainly be, then the replacement p-bar, set to the same eye to eye distance should be very close to what you need. A final bit of advice; don't tighten up all your bolts for upper and lower control arms and panhard bar until you have the vehicle weight on the axle, not the jackstands supporting the rear of the vehicle.
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You see I need the Torque rods to be shorter. I installed them at the same eye to eye length and now my wheel is visibly pushed back in the wheel well, and I have the shuddering while accelerating. I need to know how to make them fit while being shorter.
 
Adjustable torque rods are to get your pinion angle correct so you won't get any driveline shudder. THat is why you need to adjust them if lowering the car. Otherwise if you change them from stock length and change nothing else, you will get shuddering.
 
sbabbs said:
Adjustable torque rods are to get your pinion angle correct so you won't get any driveline shudder. THat is why you need to adjust them if lowering the car. Otherwise if you change them from stock length and change nothing else, you will get shuddering.
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It seems like no one is getting what I'm actually asking. I don't know how to get the torque rods in when adjusted. I have lowered my car, I could not get the eyes to line up with the rod adjusted shorter. Now I have driveline shudder and my wheels are pushed back. I need to know how I make the bolt hole and the eye of the torque rod line up after I've adjusted them shorter.
 
92White240 said:
It seems like no one is getting what I'm actually asking. I don't know how to get the torque rods in when adjusted. I have lowered my car, I could not get the eyes to line up with the rod adjusted shorter. Now I have driveline shudder and my wheels are pushed back. I need to know how I make the bolt hole and the eye of the torque rod line up after I've adjusted them shorter.
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Dont shorten the torque rods unless you have changed the driveshaft configuration.
 
Haven't done it yet but need to do the same thing as well. I think you need to tilt the axle forward to be able to line up the holes. You probably have to loosen the trailing arm bushing bolts to be able to tilt the axle.
Not sure if this works or not but this is the way I would try it.
 
You'll need to shove the axle into the new position. By muscle, or with a small bottle jack, somehow. With both torque rods off, the nose of the diff should be able to move up and down with some degree of resistance. Shove the nose up or down as needed until the bolt holes line up.
 
JohnMc said:
You'll need to shove the axle into the new position. By muscle, or with a small bottle jack, somehow. With both torque rods off, the nose of the diff should be able to move up and down with some degree of resistance. Shove the nose up or down as needed until the bolt holes line up.
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Thank you. And by the nose you mean the side closest to the rear of the car correct? and will the car being supported by jacks on the side points in rear work fine?
 
Closest to the front, as in the nose is on the front part of your face.

And if you're holding the car up by the axle now, that's going to be harder to do. If you have jack stands, maybe put them on the jacking points, that's what I usually do - turn them so the 'saddle' on the jack stand is on the metal rod in the jack point so it can't slip off.

Then the front of the diff (and the driveshaft) can move up and down a little easier. This will lengthen/shorten the distance where the torque rods fit on.
 
JohnMc said:
Closest to the front, as in the nose is on the front part of your face.

And if you're holding the car up by the axle now, that's going to be harder to do. If you have jack stands, maybe put them on the jacking points, that's what I usually do - turn them so the 'saddle' on the jack stand is on the metal rod in the jack point so it can't slip off.

Then the front of the diff (and the driveshaft) can move up and down a little easier. This will lengthen/shorten the distance where the torque rods fit on.
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Awesome. thanks, and as for the panhard bar, is it just another pushing on something to get it lined up? Aren't you supposed to put it on ramps for the panhard
 
The panhard rod positions the axle side to side, with it off, it's just up to the bushings on the forward facing arms. So it can move side to side if it feels like it. You'd need to muscle it into place as needed to bolt the panhard rod back on. A ratchet strap can help there - pulling the axle whichever direction it needs to go.
 
I have yoshifab torque rods and was able to just hook them on (left one end of one torque rod not connected to the car and could adjust the angle of the driveshaft by adjusting one rod. Some are adjustable without removing one end you just twist it and one direction goes longer other direction shorter.
 
JohnMc said:
IPD torque rods just have one adjuster on them.
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I was just referencing how easy it was to move the axle. I thought i would have to fight it but it moved easily with the those. I guess with IPDs you just have to push or pull it to line up.
 
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