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The 75 242 DL

Are you or were you getting front brake squeal when braking at really slow speeds?

These pads and rotors are the junk that came in the IPD kit. They don't squeal. Only sometimes, like once in a month.


Alternator fixed. Gonna look at the engine Saturday. Might still make the trip... we will see.
 
Testing image sizes

Pulley machined by 77volvo245: http://forums.turbobricks.com/member.php?u=15875






Engine by Ian and Eric @ hiperformanceauto.





B20 now 2.1L
9.1cr (if I remember correctly)
M-rods
Rotating assembly balanced
D Cam
Double valve springs
High Rev Lifter setup.
46mm intake valves.
38mm exhaust valves.
Ported head (gasket matched also)



Images are a little large.... hmmm. I might have to host on another site.
 
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Finally fixed most of the images in the thread.

Update....

Have been prepping the bay for the new engine. Cleaning all the oil and coolant spray from the old engine and radiator.


Finding a belt to fit.... This is the easiest way to route the belt for now.




Test fitting the intercooler.













punching some holes













Almost ready to drop in the new engine and break it in! Gonna run it NA for a bit. Then Ill add the supercharger. But I am finishing all the stuff I can without the engine in the car for now.
 
Great to see it's moving along. Thanks for fixing the pics!

With 9:1 compression and 2.1L, what do you expect in terms of NA power from this engine - maybe 125hp? I am no expert in pushrod Volvo performance tuning but I'm always interested to see what can be done with these. My green '75 wagon still has a B20F which might be fun to boost at some point.
 
Great to see it's moving along. Thanks for fixing the pics!

With 9:1 compression and 2.1L, what do you expect in terms of NA power from this engine - maybe 125hp? I am no expert in pushrod Volvo performance tuning but I'm always interested to see what can be done with these. My green '75 wagon still has a B20F which might be fun to boost at some point.

Thank Duder! Yeah, same here... no expert... Probably somewhere around 130. maybe I will baseline the engine na. then see what everything else adds.
The stock cr is like 8.7 with kjet is around 110 hp no cat factory. which would be fun to boost. I'm playing with the idea of compound charging it at some point... Still have the stock exhaust manifold I will probably get ready to add a turbo :oogle:

 
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What kind of car cover is that you have looks nice

Here is the company: https://www.calcarcover.com/custom-fit-car-truck-covers

Almost done with everything I can get done with the engine out... ready to drop the engine next weekend probably and break it in.

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Finally fixed most of the images in the thread.

Update....

Have been prepping the bay for the new engine. Cleaning all the oil and coolant spray from the old engine and radiator.


Finding a belt to fit.... This is the easiest way to route the belt for now.


Putting an idler in the tension side of the belt is not going to work in the long run (especially with a small diameter pulley/roller). The small diameter idler is not compatible with a VRib belt that is a gilmer belt idler and it will not hold up on the tension side (loadwise) (the VRib belt will not like being bent backwards sharply either) and due to the run length of the belt will likely jump off the roller.

You need to run the belt like this with the larger diameter idler (with side ribs to keep belt centered on the pulley due to the run length) on the slack side

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I realize you will need to rotate that intake elbow 90? (looks like it needs to be moved either way) but that is the best solution.
The belt setup you pictured will not last, I expect it won't make it out of the driveway.
In my design the idler pulley position may need to be moved closer to the small pulley to provide more belt wrap to help with belt slippage.
If the idler is located close to another pulley it won't need side rails.
Minimum idler diameter on the back side would be 3" with less than 45? wrap.
More wrap than 45?, the idler diameter should be increased.
 
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Putting an idler in the tension side of the belt is not going to work in the long run (especially with a small diameter pulley/roller). The small diameter idler is not compatible with a VRib belt that is a gilmer belt idler and it will not hold up on the tension side (loadwise) (the VRib belt will not like being bent backwards sharply either) and due to the run length of the belt will likely jump off the roller.

You need to run the belt like this with the larger diameter idler (with side ribs to keep belt centered on the pulley due to the run length) on the slack side



I realize you will need to rotate that intake elbow 90? (looks like it needs to be moved either way) but that is the best solution.
The belt setup you pictured will not last, I expect it won't make it out of the driveway.
In my design the idler pulley position may need to be moved closer to the small pulley to provide more belt wrap to help with belt slippage.
If the idler is located close to another pulley it won't need side rails.
Minimum idler diameter on the back side would be 3" with less than 45? wrap.
More wrap than 45?, the idler diameter should be increased.

I was only looking at the belt path. That was not how I was doing the tensioner. Already finished the belt stuff for this version. I am probably going to make my own tensioner also once I install. Thank you for the concern.
 
Update:

Engine was dropped in, cam broken in, and engine was broken in. I have been driving it now for a couple weeks putting some miles on it.

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Cam Break in

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Ready for boost!

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Also, added the missing part from the lower bumper I never put on...

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We noticed there was oil leaking.

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Stupid me forgot to let Ian and Eric know that the old pan (reused on this engine) had oil leaking through the bolt holes.

We solved that issue (made a gasket and added more silicone at each pan bolt).

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Brand New Injectors:

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After 2 weeks of driving. Video not embedding...

https://youtu.be/tglxyqVILVI

I am going to redo the exhaust system in the new year.


After driving for another week, the transmission leak got really bad. I towed it Home. Super awesome guy and company!

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That's all for now.

Ordered parts to fix the transmission leak and change the speedo gear. New engine has about 300 miles now.

More to come in the New Year!
 
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Update 03/03/2019:

Wow. It's been a while... The car runs and drives fine. I don't like the brand new injectors that are installed right now. I will probably go back to the injectors that were in the car before.

Anyways, I have been daily driving the car up to 09/08/2018 as I bought a new car to daily drive. I bought the other car, as it was a decent deal for all the work done to it, and now I have a car i can use when I decide to finish the projects on the Blue 75.

I have everything to finish the rear brake kit install (minus new rear spacers from BNE to work with the extra rotor hat). I will also order Ferodo DS2500 Club Race and stoptech slotted rotors for all four corners. We have this setup on the V70r and it is pretty crazy for street and some track duty.

Some misc images from the year.

I had Roger go thru the rsport unit and install the LEDs. So nice!

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I added a magnetic phone holder for gps/ speedo/ track data modes.

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More images on the website I think.

Not much work has been done. I was tired of the seat belt arrangement, so i put in some blue sparco belts with a cheap harness bar.

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new office chair mode:

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I wanted to try and enjoy more of the soundsystem in the car, so I swapped to a magnaflow muffler. It is a lot quieter now. I swapped out the JBL digital amps (as the multi channel amp was having issues) to alpine digital amps. The alpines are lighter, and a lot more powerful than the JBL, but the mids and highs do not sound as good.

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Out with the old...

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New units. I am running the multi channel amp bridged so it is 300watts per channel now to each 6.5" deck speaker. The 1200 watt sub amp still cant keep up with the level of the components. This sub needs like 3000 watts to have enough gain. hahah

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Decide it was cheaper to buy a remanufactured unit than buy a press at this point in time...

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First test fit run of the belt... Ignore the potato rotation status of the video. :roll:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/i8j-A92kWyo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Should be quieter once the intercooler and intake pipes are all hooked up.

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As for fueling. I decide to tryout the additional injector controller from split second. It's a nice unit with easy to software. I am going to add one 1200cc injector (should be more than enough head room with this single unit). We'll test this out and see how it works. If it doesn't work well, I do have a few backup options (kjet turbo adjustable fuel distributors, CPRs...etc).

The car will not be done in time for Davis or IPD this year. We have lots of house projects to do, and I can't remove the daily driver option from the Blue 75 just yet. We will need the extra car soon as my brother is putting his car in the shop to have some work done to it, and I will need to put a new clutch in the new car.

As you can see, some of the engine parts need to come off to be cleaned, and painted. Hope to do that one day :rofl:


That's all for now. I hope to finish this car this year.

-Jeff
 
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