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Another thread about pinging on LH 2.4, 16T edition

A worn out engine will typically have blow by the rings, not only will this cause CC pressure in the crank case it will also add oil vapors into the CC which will in turn reduce the octane of the fuel you are using and make the engine more susceptible to knock.
 
Another update: it's hot out today and if I shut the car off and immediately try to restart it, it won't idle. If I keep it alive with my right foot for a few seconds it'll sort itself out. Seems to me like a potential ECT problem, weird because I checked the spec on it at the ECU recently and it was fine. I'll be investigating further. Also have a 2-3-2 code but I'm not sure if that's just caused by the 36lb injectors.

This weekend will involve many tests.
 
Mine doess the same thing on Jack rabbit starts, stock minus chip filter and 11psi mbc. If you acceletate gradually its no issue. I'd chalk it up to late 80's tech and worn engines.
 
More updates: This past weekend I replaced the PCV box, ECT, cleaned a bunch of crap out of my intake manifold, flushed some oil out of my intercooler, reassembled everything and boost-leak tested it. Still have a small leak from my throttle shaft that won't go away despite changing the seal, however I don't think that's my issue. Also checked my fuel pressure while driving and it seemed to rise with boost as it should, no weird drops or anything.

Car seemed to be running more or less the same. Today it was idling at ~16 AFR on first start up after work which I thought was weird...

Turned up the boost today and went right from disconnected battery to driving without really giving it a chance to un-rich, made it up to 15 psi no problem. Putted around and turned the boost down to 12, ping ping. Down to 10 and I'm fine.

I don't get it, but I suppose this is my life now. Sucks because I was really looking forward to the 15 psi life...I wouldn't have invested in the 16T to run it at 10.
 
Anyone have any feedback as far as using an EBC to have the boost raise more slowly and prevent spiking as a potential to getting a few more safe psi? I understand I can have the boost up and just accelerate gradually but I like not having to worry about it, I'll run lower boost if it means I can stomp on it.
 
thelostartof said:
A worn out engine will typically have blow by the rings, not only will this cause CC pressure in the crank case it will also add oil vapors into the CC which will in turn reduce the octane of the fuel you are using and make the engine more susceptible to knock.
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Thank you..I would have thought that that process should be so obvious that it wasn't really a serious question..What's the octane of oil? 3?

geeeze
 
Fun fact, most diesel oils have a low octane rating. Race oils have a higher octane rating.
 
Kjets On a Plane said:
Lulz in B4 amsoil smokeless 2 stroke high octane race oil for your entire crankcase on your +T 2-300k 9.8:1'compression hack job whipped out hooptie as the perfect solution?
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Does anyone actually use amsoil aside from motorend on their engine masters series? **** I don't think I've even seen it in stores.
 
PromiseRing said:
Does anyone actually use amsoil aside from motorend on their engine masters series? **** I don't think I've even seen it in stores.
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Brand is unimportant :lol:

You have to buy it from an exclusiv "Amsoil Dealer" or some such noise (not that they don't have a good product, but unlikely to make a whole lot of difference for mere mortals in most applications).

cosbySweater said:
Get a bigger turbo
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The TB love affair with mitsu TD04 rat-fart turbine housing turbos may now end?
 
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cosbySweater said:
Low rpm high cylinder pressure on a worn out engine. Greattttt idea
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efan barely switched on in time on a choked up sizzling hot exhaust/head/manifold/turbine for good measure?

Stick a B-cam or similar in there for bonus brilliance and really spike the power band in the low/middle with a ton of overlap/reversion with the existing drinking straw turbine and still choke it out before the rev limiter? All that m4d low-middle toark for 2-300rpm can nevar lose?
 
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Kjets On a Plane said:
Lulz in B4 amsoil smokeless 2 stroke high octane race oil for your entire crankcase on your +T 2-300k 9.8:1'compression hack job whipped out hooptie as the perfect solution?
Click to expand...

Pfffft. Amsoil. It's all about the Motul 300V baby.
But seriously, the amsoil synthetic 2t oil is great.
 
cosbySweater said:
Get a bigger turbo
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No

cosbySweater said:
Low rpm high cylinder pressure on a worn out engine. Greattttt idea
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Happens regardless of my rpm

Kjets On a Plane said:
efan barely switched on in time on a choked up sizzling hot exhaust/head/manifold/turbine for good measure?
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I actually took the efan out and blocked my grill with cardboard for the Virginia summer just for you ;-)

To anyone reading this down the line: I made an effort to keep this scientific so that if someone was experiencing something similar they could see what I tried and experienced. As you can see the thread did eventually succumb to typical TB bullsh**

FWIW I too was unaware of the worn rings lowering octane in that way. I had heard of blowby causing issues because the oil vapor would travel through the intake and lower the octane rating, but I was unaware of it entering the CC directly.

Also in serious regards to the efan: I had actually thought about it as a potential problem but even if I override the fan to just run full bore constantly I'm still seeing this problem. This is all around town putting and I've found the efan, if anything, to do a better job cooling at low speeds than the clutch fan ever did. Now I know you're the clutch fan Nazi and will tell me I'm wrong, but there it is.
 
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Through some strange circumstances I once had the misfortune to try to diagnose some +T mess on a hooped out b230f that's only saving grace was that it replaced a b230ft that apparently had a rod through the side of it prior in (what was originally) a stock 7/9 turbo car otherwise.

That thing pinged all over the place. The car being totally worthless and owner not really able to pay for anything, nothing ever went anywhere after the test drive (me in the passenger seat...wouldn't even touch that thing or drive it) listening to it on moderate acceleration ~0 vacuum even go "click- CLICK-CLICK" ever louder. before it even remotely hand the chance of reaching any significant boost. Me "so how long has it had this symptom (intermittently low on power on warm days (probably knock sensor/ECU thinking the world is ending at best) :lol:)?" Them: "About 6 months." (car lands in PNP a few short months later).

In another instance I encountered this same fine bit of work on a really clean 945turbo.
Replaced the hooped out b230F+T hack install with a really low mile b230Ft and rebuilt the injectors and a few other things, no more deathly rattling/pinging.

How do people imagine that more boost/faster spoolup on lh-jet is going to work out on a worn out ~10:1 static compression engine?

Remove all safety margin and make sure all sub-systems and state of tune is worse than just a stock stage 0 car is a proven winning formula.

culberro said:
Pfffft. Amsoil. It's all about the Motul 300V baby.
But seriously, the amsoil synthetic 2t oil is great.
Click to expand...

Oil that's $12-$15 per little pint vial or whatever on a tb budget :rofl:
INB4 "The oil change / Fill up is more than I paid for my car!"

In all seriousness, the Wankel endurance guys (with vastly fatter wallets and not caring much about fuel consumption or tailpipe emissions) swear by either/both those products.

I can see it now:
Hold your engines together with Seafoam, Motul/Amsoil/Joe Gibbs 2-stroke racing oil, jet fuel and prayer.

The fact that you can even get 10psi in 100?F degree heat with that thing is a miracle. With all the chips, hackery and tweaking with 91-94 octane less emissions friendly gas than CA and to some extent OR piss gas I can see.

The owners of said above cars were just using CA/OR ~87 octane/certainly nothing special, which a stock B230F in about as perfect low mile repair as possible will ping (lightly) on some transitions running at heavy load with the A/C on in 100?F heat, to be fair. :lol:

This is TB anymore though :e-shrug: :
....try really hard to win the special olympics with a hack job +T on a hooped out motor that's almost as fast and vastly less reliable and requires more than 87-91 octane/nothing special pump gas than a basically bone stock near new turbo car, and probably slower than a no-cat model with the original Volvo turbo+ setup that ran ~12+psi only at heavy load and modified the timing curve slightly on later versions :lol:.
 
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