1987 244 DL Autocrosser - Page 25

bwb3 · 05-20-2010, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by towerymt

I think these are 10"s but I have to ask him to be sure.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3523/...3c58dd84_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3232/...be7238e9_b.jpg

yep they're 15x10's et0 with 8mm spacers up front

towerymt · 05-20-2010, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl Buchka

That means it's good right?

You know it.

Next big autocross is Memorial day weekend, so I'll get to find out how the balance has changed. Carlisle this weekend isn't much of a test.

klr142 · 05-20-2010, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by towerymt

Also, pedal effort has been reduced, which I was hoping for based on what Bne experienced.

From replacing the cable with a good, new one, or from changing something else?

WeezilUSA · 05-20-2010, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by towerymt

Test drive was a success. After adjusting the new clutch cable, I put a piece of rubber hose over the threaded metal sheathing and tightened 3 small clamps over the hose. This is to keep it from self-adjusting. The pedal feels better than before...it's smoother through the whole range of travel (obviously). Also, pedal effort has been reduced, which I was hoping for based on what Bne experienced.

Swapped the front bars between cars, so the '87 has the 21 now and the DD '92 has the 28. Quite a weight savings there...

Drove the car to work today, too. This car corners like a snake in a rat hole.

Can you snap a picture of what you did to the adjuster? I feel like mine is self adjusting... and its annoying!

klr142 · 05-20-2010, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeezilUSA

Can you snap a picture of what you did to the adjuster? I feel like mine is self adjusting... and its annoying!

You can put a small hose clamp behind the adjuster(make sure you screw it all the way in, obviously, it's a tapered fit so that needs to be as tight as possible to lock it in place, I use big pliers to tighten mine) and tighten it down on the metal casing to keep things from moving.

towerymt · 05-20-2010, 06:26 PM

Old clevis pin and new. Nice wear pattern, eh? I need to inspect the pedal and swap it out if it's got an oval shaped hole in it now. The end of the old cable was slight ovaled. I removed the original (broken) clutch cable and installed a brand new Volvo brand Made in Germany cable with the metal outer sheathing. Far superior to the aftermarket cable.

Those three little hose clamps in a row are around a piece of hose cut lengthwise. The sheathing will want to rotate and go towards the back of the car, so this hopefully stops it from rotating. I adjust the cable until there's not much free play at the fork when I pull it back (pulling the cable out). Maybe 1/4". I used to have to get in and try it out first, but now I just set it and forget it. The pedal feels firm until right near the end of the travel near the floor where it gets a little easier. Like pulling back on a bow.

The other side features a washer with a slot cut in the side to slip over the cable. Works great, but I found out my new OEM replacement came in today, so I'll replace this when I do the T5 swap.

Super1800GTR · 05-21-2010, 10:10 PM

Looks great Mike!!! Let us know how those calipers work out for you.

klr142 · 05-21-2010, 11:06 PM

Ok, so just by replacing worn stuff, not doing anything custom, per say.

towerymt · 05-23-2010, 10:37 PM

TIPSP · 05-23-2010, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by towerymt

What is the sensor in the pan?

towerymt · 05-23-2010, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by voca164e

Towery's 244:

^

towerymt · 05-23-2010, 11:04 PM

Oil temp. The wire always fell off when it was on the bottom, plus it gets cracked/broken on a low car. So when we did the motor, I requested the addition of a 3/4-16 nut on the side so I never have to remove the temp sender drain plug.

gdogg16 · 05-24-2010, 10:30 AM

Best sounding +t at carlisle.

villageidiot8709 · 05-24-2010, 10:59 AM

did this same thing at carlisle. the cast iron block is on the road somewhere near wallmart down there but the washer works great so who cares. even got a vendor to cut the washer for me. car looked great btw

Quote:

Originally Posted by towerymt

towerymt · 05-24-2010, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdogg16

Best sounding +t at carlisle.

Would be, except it's not a +T.

pwschuh · 05-24-2010, 01:22 PM

Well, the engine's not a +T but the car is a +FT...

MrBill · 05-24-2010, 01:28 PM

paul is weak at terminology.

Judging from the parts, it's a b23-f+ET

best sounding b23ET on the showfield

gdogg16 · 05-24-2010, 01:32 PM

nerds

towerymt · 05-24-2010, 03:33 PM

B23F block, B21F rods, B21F crank, B23ET pistons, 531 Penta head.

the_engine_with_no_name

DNAsEqUeNcE · 05-24-2010, 04:14 PM

yeap, and it does sound good. send the head off yet to kenny? you know you wanna get it hogged out by heeb'.

gear whine · 05-24-2010, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrBill

paul is weak at terminology.

Judging from the parts, it's a b23-f+ET

best sounding b23ET on the showfield

the only b23et at the show

MrBill · 05-24-2010, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gear whine

the only b23et at the show

you know it

Quote:

Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE

yeap, and it does sound good. send the head off yet to kenny? you know you wanna get it hogged out by heeb'.

It is hogged out, but by mikep.
And big[ger] valves

Tom Wiley · 05-24-2010, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkaplan

You see these?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CL...7542/?rtype=10

15x9. 6.5 back space aluminum.. 200bucks those are 13lbs each...... w0000000000000000000000000000t

The 15x10's they have listed are 14 lbs each...

http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_f...=364&size=i_15 x 10

For flat hub wheels like that might be easy to drill another pattern

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....R5R6&tab=Sizes

blkaplan · 05-24-2010, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wiley

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....R5R6&tab=Sizes

lol wow 275 50... thats a lot of sidewall.

those are taller then my 305 30 18s

500dollar744ti · 05-24-2010, 09:34 PM

good job Towery, that time is great especially for what the competition was running.

05-21-2010, 10:10 PM	#607
Super1800GTR Board Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Lanesville IN	Looks great Mike!!! Let us know how those calipers work out for you. __________________ http://www.pbase.com/242ti/root

05-24-2010, 10:30 AM	#613
gdogg16 You're a Subtotal Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: La Plata, Md	Best sounding +t at carlisle. __________________ Greg '74 142 ~~'98 V70 T5M~~ '05 LGT Wagon '13 TDI Sportwagen '03 Tacoma

05-24-2010, 01:22 PM	#616
pwschuh Rolling... Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Mid-Atlantic	Well, the engine's not a +T but the car is a +FT... __________________ "No man would listen to you talk if he didn't know it was his turn next." E. W. Howe

05-24-2010, 09:34 PM	#625
500dollar744ti still rides with MrDoug Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Fairfax, VA	good job Towery, that time is great especially for what the competition was running. __________________ -Matt 1989 744T- 16v turbo, '94 FD-block, RSI pistons/rods, GT35R, Tial 38mm, RFL, MSnS-E, DSM spark, 100lb Delphis, 4.6 springs, Bondo header, Heebspeed intake, Q45 90mm TB, Bosch 044 FP, 12x24x3 ebayIC, w/c t5, Clutchnet 4puck/PP, 4.10 G80, IPD sways, 960 brakes. 1983 Ford F150- 302ci, C6/4x4, 7" lift, 35s. 1990 Cobia San Marino 225 ECS- MCM 350 Mag, GM Bowtie Intake, Bulletspeed lower, HR-Titan 20p. the rest: 1996 850t 179k, 1998 S90 175k, 2004 V70 2.4 175k, 2005 XC90 2.5t AWD 122k.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

05-20-2010, 06:26 PM	#606
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	Old clevis pin and new. Nice wear pattern, eh? I need to inspect the pedal and swap it out if it's got an oval shaped hole in it now. The end of the old cable was slight ovaled. I removed the original (broken) clutch cable and installed a brand new Volvo brand Made in Germany cable with the metal outer sheathing. Far superior to the aftermarket cable. Those three little hose clamps in a row are around a piece of hose cut lengthwise. The sheathing will want to rotate and go towards the back of the car, so this hopefully stops it from rotating. I adjust the cable until there's not much free play at the fork when I pull it back (pulling the cable out). Maybe 1/4". I used to have to get in and try it out first, but now I just set it and forget it. The pedal feels firm until right near the end of the travel near the floor where it gets a little easier. Like pulling back on a bow. The other side features a washer with a slot cut in the side to slip over the cable. Works great, but I found out my new OEM replacement came in today, so I'll replace this when I do the T5 swap.

05-21-2010, 11:06 PM	#608
klr142 Turbo, what? Join Date: May 2004 Location: OR	Ok, so just by replacing worn stuff, not doing anything custom, per say.

05-23-2010, 10:37 PM	#609
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA

05-23-2010, 11:04 PM	#612
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	Oil temp. The wire always fell off when it was on the bottom, plus it gets cracked/broken on a low car. So when we did the motor, I requested the addition of a 3/4-16 nut on the side so I never have to remove the temp sender drain plug.

05-24-2010, 01:32 PM	#618
gdogg16 You're a Subtotal Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: La Plata, Md	nerds

05-24-2010, 03:33 PM	#619
towerymt the real Towery Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: VA, USA	B23F block, B21F rods, B21F crank, B23ET pistons, 531 Penta head. the_engine_with_no_name