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Old 05-20-2010, 02:42 PM   #601
bwb3
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yep they're 15x10's et0 with 8mm spacers up front
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82 242t/converse conversion:306 HCI+T)omg its taking forever...
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:52 PM   #602
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That means it's good right?
You know it.

Next big autocross is Memorial day weekend, so I'll get to find out how the balance has changed. Carlisle this weekend isn't much of a test.
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:54 PM   #603
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Also, pedal effort has been reduced, which I was hoping for based on what Bne experienced.
From replacing the cable with a good, new one, or from changing something else?
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:57 PM   #604
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Test drive was a success. After adjusting the new clutch cable, I put a piece of rubber hose over the threaded metal sheathing and tightened 3 small clamps over the hose. This is to keep it from self-adjusting. The pedal feels better than before...it's smoother through the whole range of travel (obviously). Also, pedal effort has been reduced, which I was hoping for based on what Bne experienced.

Swapped the front bars between cars, so the '87 has the 21 now and the DD '92 has the 28. Quite a weight savings there...

Drove the car to work today, too. This car corners like a snake in a rat hole.
Can you snap a picture of what you did to the adjuster? I feel like mine is self adjusting... and its annoying!
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:03 PM   #605
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Can you snap a picture of what you did to the adjuster? I feel like mine is self adjusting... and its annoying!
You can put a small hose clamp behind the adjuster(make sure you screw it all the way in, obviously, it's a tapered fit so that needs to be as tight as possible to lock it in place, I use big pliers to tighten mine) and tighten it down on the metal casing to keep things from moving.
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:26 PM   #606
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Old clevis pin and new. Nice wear pattern, eh? I need to inspect the pedal and swap it out if it's got an oval shaped hole in it now. The end of the old cable was slight ovaled. I removed the original (broken) clutch cable and installed a brand new Volvo brand Made in Germany cable with the metal outer sheathing. Far superior to the aftermarket cable.





Those three little hose clamps in a row are around a piece of hose cut lengthwise. The sheathing will want to rotate and go towards the back of the car, so this hopefully stops it from rotating. I adjust the cable until there's not much free play at the fork when I pull it back (pulling the cable out). Maybe 1/4". I used to have to get in and try it out first, but now I just set it and forget it. The pedal feels firm until right near the end of the travel near the floor where it gets a little easier. Like pulling back on a bow.



The other side features a washer with a slot cut in the side to slip over the cable. Works great, but I found out my new OEM replacement came in today, so I'll replace this when I do the T5 swap.

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Old 05-21-2010, 10:10 PM   #607
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Looks great Mike!!! Let us know how those calipers work out for you.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:06 PM   #608
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Ok, so just by replacing worn stuff, not doing anything custom, per say.
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:37 PM   #609
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:51 PM   #610
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What is the sensor in the pan?
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Old 05-23-2010, 10:57 PM   #611
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Towery's 244:
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:04 PM   #612
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Oil temp. The wire always fell off when it was on the bottom, plus it gets cracked/broken on a low car. So when we did the motor, I requested the addition of a 3/4-16 nut on the side so I never have to remove the temp sender drain plug.
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Old 05-24-2010, 10:30 AM   #613
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Best sounding +t at carlisle.
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Old 05-24-2010, 10:59 AM   #614
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did this same thing at carlisle. the cast iron block is on the road somewhere near wallmart down there but the washer works great so who cares. even got a vendor to cut the washer for me. car looked great btw
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:04 AM   #615
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Best sounding +t at carlisle.
Would be, except it's not a +T.
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:22 PM   #616
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Well, the engine's not a +T but the car is a +FT...
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:28 PM   #617
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paul is weak at terminology.

Judging from the parts, it's a b23-f+ET

best sounding b23ET on the showfield
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:32 PM   #618
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nerds
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Old 05-24-2010, 03:33 PM   #619
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B23F block, B21F rods, B21F crank, B23ET pistons, 531 Penta head.

the_engine_with_no_name
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Old 05-24-2010, 04:14 PM   #620
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yeap, and it does sound good. send the head off yet to kenny? you know you wanna get it hogged out by heeb'.
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Old 05-24-2010, 05:50 PM   #621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBill View Post
paul is weak at terminology.

Judging from the parts, it's a b23-f+ET

best sounding b23ET on the showfield
the only b23et at the show
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400 klubb!!!
For Life.
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:52 PM   #622
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the only b23et at the show
you know it

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yeap, and it does sound good. send the head off yet to kenny? you know you wanna get it hogged out by heeb'.
It is hogged out, but by mikep.
And big[ger] valves
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:13 PM   #623
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You see these?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CL...7542/?rtype=10

15x9. 6.5 back space aluminum.. 200bucks those are 13lbs each...... w0000000000000000000000000000t

The 15x10's they have listed are 14 lbs each...

http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_f...=364&size=i_15 x 10

For flat hub wheels like that might be easy to drill another pattern
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....R5R6&tab=Sizes
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:29 PM   #624
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lol wow 275 50... thats a lot of sidewall.

those are taller then my 305 30 18s
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:34 PM   #625
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good job Towery, that time is great especially for what the competition was running.
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