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Old 04-18-2012, 02:16 AM   #26
jerryc
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Remember that you have IRS and although IPD made a rear sway, it's very rare.
The rear springs are lighter, the ride height is maintained by the Nivomat shocks, which are expensive. As mentioned above you can convert to regular dia springs and 'normal' type shocks but the car won't ride so well.
The front susp is the same as 740, so you can work with those things/parts/ideas.
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:15 PM   #27
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I dont have IRS, but I am just curious. Is it possible to just bolt an entire JY rearend/suspension in from a 740? Axle and all?
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Old 04-18-2012, 02:36 PM   #28
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Hi! I love your car very much!
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Did you cut your springs yet?

If not, why not?
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:26 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Super Matty P View Post
I forgot to mention it's a 1-owner (little old lady) all original, no accidents. I picked it up for $1k and haven't regretted a penny of it. Since buying it I've added a nice double-din cd/mp3 player and bought new speakers and a 4ch amp to go in it. Everything works, all power accessories like heated seats and sunroof.

I'm doing the "stage 0" mods right now. I just ordered $300 worth of everything to get it back up to tip-top. Once I get that knocked out I'm going to focus on a new 16g turbo and supporting hardware for it.

I'm really struggling to find any decent suspension bits for the 760. Plenty of good mods for the 740 though. I'm also having to hold off on ordering brakes until I can determine which calipers I have on the car. I've been too lazy to go take the wheels off.
Power is easier in these cars than many and the potential is limitless..
First thing I'd do is pull the wheels, and junk them cause they're only 15".
You absolutely NEED minimum 8 x 18

I'll PM you an address where the wheels can be safely disposed of where others won't be harmed by them...

With a little thought and discussion the rear suspension can be made to work a lot better than most here can imagine and retain a decent ride.. Front is easy, but again a little discussion beyond "slap in Bilstein HDs and 400 lb springs."
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:09 PM   #30
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Thanks for the compliments and advice. I've been online buying up tons of parts the past 2 days and still need lots more. I'm VERY interested in getting the suspension sorted out. I've owned multiple RX7's, mazdaspped cars and I'm not used to the floating feeling of the feeling or the body roll. I'd like to firm it up some while still keeping that posh ride. Not too hard, not too soft.

John V, I'm trying to buy a set of 17x7 Peg's off a local forum member here. I think that should be a big improvement over the stockers. I'm not sure an 18" wouldn't have a negative effect on ride comfort. I know (from past experiences) that a 17" is a pretty good compromise between looks and comfort. I'd love to talk suspension with you whenever you have the time.


Here's what all I bought recently:
NGK iridium IX plugs
NGK plug wires
dist. cap
rotor button
trans. filter kit
thermostat+gasket (180* for the alabama summer)
power window switch (drivers side stopped working for some reason)
timing belt comp. kit
ac belt
ps belt
alt belt
water pump + gasket
ac compressor
receiver dryer
orifice tube
compressor hose
(2) new CHEAP tires (needed something badly for the time being)
slotted A-cam (don't know anything about the cam but a local volvo friend told me it's what I needed)

Thing left to purchase:
new taillight housings (I think moisture is getting in there and causing bulbs to not work)
drivers seat switches/motors (used to work, now won't move forward or back)
rebuilt turbo (think a local owner here is selling me his 16G)
full detail (critical importance for me!)
turbo/intercooler piping (I'd prefer a nice solid hard pipe kit but new rubber ones at least)
suspension upgrades (I'd like to lower slightly and reduce body roll entirely. Not too much to ask for!)

If anyone has any of these parts for sale let me know!!

Thanks
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:38 AM   #31
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update:

parts now in stock! Just ordered a new 15g from "tryingbe" and I'm picking up my new pegasus R's tomorrow after class. Getting fresh rubber on them thursday. I've also bought a slotted a-cam so I'll hopefully start installing all of these parts this weekend. Next week is paint/body work!! Getting very close to being finished!!
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:13 AM   #32
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the tails are one year only and very hard to find. 740's 90-92 which look the same but are shorter may fit, I'm not sure. But the issue may be an easy fix, depending on if they have a metal plate that carries all current, or a floppy circuit board. If the former let me know and I'll point out some fixes.

Orifice tube, there is a variable one that works better esp in traffic.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:18 PM   #33
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i'm going to take the lamps apart this weekend and test each socket and bulb to determine if it's the bulb, the circuit board or moisture inside the housing (i doubt). Either way, fixing this should resolve my in-op cruise control issue I'm having.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:08 AM   #34
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Went to the dealer and was able to purchase the left hand circuit board (right is discontinued). I installed it and viola! I no have a complete set of lights in the car!

Sadly though, this did not fix my cruise control issue like I was thinking it would. Now I have to try to diagnose this problem on my own. Not looking forward to that at all!

p.s. anyone else think I should put a set of IPD lowering springs on JUST the front of this hooptie? For some reason it looks like it's sitting lower in the rear than the front. Maybe the nivomat has gone out?? Either way I can't afford to lower the back anymore without rolling the fenders.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:19 AM   #35
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Isn't the 740 CC vacuum operated/has vacuum controls on pedals like the 240s?
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:21 AM   #36
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I don't know what you're saying. There is a diaphragm off the throttle body that holds the throttle for cruise. Mine seems good (no splits, cracks, dry rot). To be honest I don't know if the switch is even working. I've tried it in all positions at any speed above 50mph and I get nothing, no light on the dash, no cruise effect. I'm sure it's something simple just have to figure out which simple problem it is!
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:00 PM   #37
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I'm not that familiar with 740 CC. But on my 240 there are vacuum switches(mines manual so has 2), and vacuum hoses under dash on brake & clutch pedals "stop"bracket.

The switches are on a bracket, and pedals "bump them" to make CC contact. When pedal lever to switch plunger contact is lost, when pedal is depressed, CC disengages(safety feature)

I find the switche's bracket is easy to bend, and that proper clutch pedal postion & clutch cable adjustment is key to making my 240 CC work properly.

But like I said 740 may be different dunno.

Look under dash by the brake(&/or clutch) pedals, and look for a black plunger switch where the pedal(Clutch or Brake or both ) "seats" when at rest .

There are of course wires going to these swithes and switches are adjustable. There are also vacuum hoses there by switches too. Check to see they are in place.

My CC on my 240 has acted up, and this is where I found the problem to be.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:21 PM   #38
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god advice, I'll give it a look now.
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:26 AM   #39
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Been a long time without an update. Since it's 3:17am here and I just walked in from working on the car now's as good a time as any.

With the help of a local volvo friend I went ahead and did all of the Stage0 mods/work. While doing the timing belt and waterpump we installed the a-cam (supposed to be a bump in power). Replaced all V-belts with brand new units. I had already done the brand new ngk plugs and wires, cap, rotor, button, fuel filter, oil change, trans service (full pan drop) and rear diff svc.

After putting the car back together I noticed a large oil leak from the cam seal. We started checking a lot of things but decided the PCV system was in need of replacement. I ordered a new oil separator, hose, y-fitting and gasket. Got everything installed and the leak persisted. I decided that somehow too much pressure was being built-up in the valve cover and forcing the oil out of the cap/seal. I picked up a spare valve cover and tapped it with a 3/8 brass fitting. I ran the line from the VC to my newly installed ebay $16 catch can. The outlet hose is run out of a ,perfectly placed, hole in the chassis to the ground. This will assure that excess pressure could not possibly build up in the VC anymore.

The car is starting to look GREAT and I'm eager to get it back on the road again so I can get the AC system leak-tested and recharged. I fire the car up this morning (2am) and notice it's spraying fuel from the rear injector. Somehow I've managed to pinch the o-ring when putting everything back together. So $17 later I've ordered a complete set of o-rings to re-do the entire rail and I'll be spending all day putting out that fire (pun intended).

There's only a few things left on my plate for this brick. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

1. Injector leaks (should be fixed tomorrow)
2. Install new turbo (next week)
3. custom paint/body work (next week also)
4. obx exhaust (a few weeks)

As I'm going through the car I'm picking up a few new bushings here and there and replacing all the worn out rubber a few pieces at a time. Every little part makes the car feel just a bit better and I know it'll be a gem when I'm all finished.

I'll get some new pics up once I get her back on the road daily.
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:35 PM   #40
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uh oh....new turbo got installed today! Going to get everything snugged back up and take it over to the local garage to get the AC system diagnosed (big leak, won't hold a vacuum. Have to find out why). After that I'm taking it to my detail to get re-detailed. I'll take some good "before" pictures and then start on the paint/body work.

Getting very excited to have this Swedish beast back on the road soon!
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:58 PM   #41
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another update:

My baby is SICK. After much hard work and discussion I've come to the conclusion that I somehow managed to destroy my fuel injectors when repairing some o-ring leaks. I was very careful when pulling everything apart but I noticed that 2 of my injectors were missing that little needle on the end when I re-capped them. Because I was so careful and saw no damaged pieces laying around on my work bench I just assumed that's how they always were and put them back in the car. Apparently that was the wrong thing to do. The car is running so rich it's just pouring black smoke out of the exhaust.

Also, during this time I managed to crack the upper radiator plastic causing the radiator to have to be replaced. This is frustrating but not entirely unexpected. Another $120 down the crapper.

So now I've ordered a new radiator and upper hose (tank broke off in hose) and picking up a set of JY injectors from a local TB member. I'm going to send them off the Injector-rehab.com to be rebuilt and fully flowed and balanced. After that it's just a matter of swapping them over and correcting the wastegate tension and she should be golden.
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Old 07-02-2012, 02:02 AM   #42
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I don't think anyone else is following this anymore but I'm using it more of a log for my records. If a mod could please relocate it to the "projects" thread that would be awesome.


Picked up the injectors today. They are packaged up and ready to ship off tomorrow morning to NJ to injector-rehab.com. $10 for injectors, $68 for a full rebuild, flow test and all new o-rings, including return shipping can't be beat. throwing these back in the car will make it run like new.

I'm REALLY holding out to see what happens w/ nathinwa's raffle. If I win a new intake manifold I'm going to run it and a new billet fuel rail with these injectors and just do the whole swap all at one time.

I've picked up a nice, simple vacuum distribution block off ebay for $24shipped. I'm going to use it to clean up and re-route all of the vacuum lines and get them off the stock manifold. I think it'll really clean up the look of the engine bay if I can mount the block down low and close the engine block, under the manifold. Removed a lot of that clutter and just cap off all the open nipples.

I think the next "performance" mod is going to be gutting out the stock cat. Should be a quick afternoon job that would help keep my new turbo from blowing up. With all of the oil and excess fuel that thing is spewing I'm sure the cat is beyond ruined. Should be a performance gain and a fuel efficiency gain as well.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:08 AM   #43
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Your car is very nice! I like a lot it's color!
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:29 PM   #44
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Thanks but don't get attached to the color. It's getting a full color change very soon. Something I've always wanted to do and I think it'll turn out pretty fly. I'll be sure to post tons of pics when I do it. May even do a small video if I have enough hands here to help.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:18 PM   #45
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The outside color looks great. The inside needs to go
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:41 PM   #46
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Beginning to think the Pegs look good on these 700s. Nice ride.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:04 AM   #47
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still waiting on my injectors and radiator to show up and then I'm going to borrow a friends garage and we're going to start paint and body work. I think it's going to "balliferous" when it's finished....my friend....not so much.

Still in the market for some sort of upgraded suspension pieces but will focus more on bushings and braces than springs and shocks for now. My factory nivomats still work great but I'm hoping that yanking that stuff will open up a few more options for me as well reduce some weight (?? anyone know if there is a difference??)
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:50 PM   #48
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Ok, so time for another long-winded update. Things have been hectic here but I'm trying to get everything squared away for SE-XI this year. I wanna roll in style and not worry about leaks, squeaks or boost creeps. So here's the current list of everything that's been done:

New Oil cap (old one leaked under boost)
new distributor (oil pouring INSIDE the cap even after both o-rings being replaced)
new ac accumulator, orifice tube, suction line and re-charge.

I also purchased a new powered steam washer. I'm planning on steaming out the engine bay and everything underneath to keep a tight eye on leaks and problem issues. Also, there's no point in driving around in a dirty car. Steam the grease and crude off and be done with it.

Also have $300 worth of Plasti-Dip sitting in my game room ready to go on the car. I didn't see a need to put it on before fixing the leaks and major issues. I've also got a real pimp rear spoiler that I need to prep and mount before painting so it can all match. I think it's going to look nice once I get it all together. I'll be sure to post pics and maybe a few videos of us AL hoons dipping the swedish steele.

Next on the list is getting the distributor installed this week and getting the car steam cleaned to perfection. then I'll get with Kahlua and get this spoiler prepped and mounted. then paint. Then I should be done for the most part. Suspension and more boost will have to wait until after the meet.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:50 PM   #49
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NGK iridium IX plugs
Don't run those on a turbo car.
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:22 AM   #50
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Why not? We've been discussing this in another thread already. I've used these in ALL of my turbocharged and supercharged cars without issue. In fact in my older turbo pinto (2.3L turbo ford, very similar to THIS engine) it made a HUGE improvement.

I'm not opposed to swapping them out but someone has to be able to tell me why, logically.
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