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Old 05-07-2012, 04:51 AM   #1
CaliMeatWagon
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Default Arse end skipping

Going around turns at speed (freeway onramps/interchanges) my rear ends feels like it skips when I hit cracks across the road. I'm wondering if anybody has experienced this and has fixed it. I'm thinking it's because its rear wheel drive, light in the rear, with soft suspension. And maybe running Bilstien HD's with overload springs might fix, but I want to see if anyone has experience with this, thanks!
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:45 AM   #2
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Are you running beefy sways out back? They ride like that in wagons it seems. Could also be blown struts. For now, Try adjusting tire pressure as well.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:08 AM   #3
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Solid rear axle Does not help either. Check condition of bushings also. If anything, a softer suspension setup will help you more than a firmer one. The stiffer the setup the more likely your car will skip sections of pavement on hard turns. How hard are you pushing this beast?
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:17 PM   #4
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I usually already doing the freeway speeds when I'm on onramps/interchanges (so 70mph+). I do have wider then normal tires in the rear (235/60/15)
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:33 PM   #5
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Would stiffer struts do a better job of keeping the tire on the ground during these situation?
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:15 PM   #6
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Worn bushings (as noted above), shocks/springs starting to go off, wrong tire pressure?
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:22 AM   #7
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The best thing for that is having shocks that match the springs well. I had the same problem with my 744 on sweeping onramps with expansion joints with 250lb/in rear springs and Bilstein HDs. There's a certain onramp that was especially nerve racking in the rain. In my 245 now with the same spring rate but better matched rear shocks, when the rear goes over the expansion joint it just sticks, no skipping around. Same wheels/tires between setups. Another thing to note is that I had a 25mm rear sway bar on the 744 and the stock sway bar on my 245, but I think the main difference is the shocks.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:57 AM   #9
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Useful thread - I have a similar problem in my 745 Sport Edition - standard (but factory lowered 'cos it's a sport), and I have been debating whether to replace the nivos or to go to nylastic bushes. The nivos seem to be working well otherwise but AFAIK are the originals and have done 200k miles
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:00 AM   #10
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Okay cool, so it does seem to be a common problem. I've actually had a freeway joint skip sideways but the opposite of the way I was turning.
Solution? Poly bushings, stiffer struts?
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliMeatwagon View Post
Okay cool, so it does seem to be a common problem. I've actually had a freeway joint skip sideways but the opposite of the way I was turning.
Solution? Poly bushings, stiffer struts?
Might as well go Poly but don't skimp, do them all or don't do them at all. They've lasted this long. (Others will disagree but it's a while you're in there.. YES you will notice a difference if you do this one part at a time, but it will also put added stress on other components. You think your struts are blown now!)

Stiffer struts, remember, match the springs to the shocks as Poik recommends. Otherwise you're going to get mixed results.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:49 PM   #12
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When I had my '88 745ti, it too would want to swap ends from time to time, I blamed it on the too stiff rear ipd bar I had on it.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:31 PM   #13
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So since I plan on running Bilstien HD's, what springs should I get to match. (And I do plan on swapping to all poly bushings, more so for longevity)
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:11 PM   #14
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torque rod bushings and a reenforced subframe will help this. When I went to the Kaplhenke rear end it cured all the uneasiness I would feel exiting a corner under power.

So poly bushing are in order. Every 7/9xx car that's on the road needs to have it torque rod bushings replaced (if it hasn't been done yet) and while were talking about bushings, have your replaced the cone bushing on the front strut rod?

Put in an order on the group buy.

Pick your springs, then pick your dampners to match. I like my old ipd springs with koni yellow sport shocks. I've run TME lowering springs with KYB's and I've run the old ipd springs with bogue turbo gas shocks. All 3 of those setups were in the good enough department on my 940s.



One of these days I'll go to an adjustable spring perch in the rear of the Gold car and run a standard 5" spring.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:57 PM   #15
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If I'm reading OP's posts correctly he's got old worn out ish in the car......

OP it is likely 'Skipping' due to shocks that are junk. Bushings are sure worth looking at too as they are also suspect.

You can make the car a LOT more fun by doing this right. Springs, shocks, bars, bushings... A proper tire and wheel package.... FUN!
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:07 PM   #16
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I've done the suspension bounce test on all four corners and it doesnt bounce more than 1 1/2 times. And I do have wider and slightly taller than stock tires
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliMeatwagon View Post
I've done the suspension bounce test on all four corners and it doesnt bounce more than 1 1/2 times. And I do have wider and slightly taller than stock tires
A step in the right direction for sure! Do your refresh in this order: shocks, springs, (preferrably at the same time), bushings, everything else. You'll notice the most difference that way. Change the shocks and tell us how you corner after that!

Edit- Read that it doesn't bounce more than 1 1/2 times. How many miles are on your parts, any receipts for work done? OEM is good (IMO) for 60k, anything after that and they'll be acceptable, but still well broken in and tired.

Last edited by Tuesday; 05-09-2012 at 02:07 PM.. Reason: Reading > me
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Old 05-09-2012, 04:28 PM   #18
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My 940 sometimes skips in the back on a sweeper with a bump in the middle, and I have Bil HD with a 19mm rear bar, and good front bushings.
Toby's comment about the torque arms is interesting. I am also thinking it's the spring rate/shock type.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:23 PM   #19
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I kinda know what I'm talking about when it comes to 7/9 suspension. I'm very familiar with this issue. Even new shocks and springs will not cure it, it may help mask it. The worn bushings are allowing the axle to move in a way that can not be restricted by springs and shocks. This makes for some unpredictable weight transfer when going over a bump while cornering.

Replace the torque arm bushing with poly, or a solid unit like what Kaplhenke sells. Do they make replacement pan hard bushings? I just got a replacement PH rod with heim joints.
If you're beating on your car, you will need to consider reenforcing the subframe connector. Yoshifab has a good budget weld on kit, and Ben sells a high dollar replacement. At least inspect the subframe connector when you are replacing the bushings so see how worn and bent it is.

There really isn't anything else to say on this issue. Spring and shock talk should be in another thread, it's not going to fix this particular issue, it may mask it, but you're still going to have a floppy rear end, and no one wants to rock a floppy rear end.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum TE View Post
I kinda know what I'm talking about when it comes to 7/9 suspension. I'm very familiar with this issue. Even new shocks and springs will not cure it, it may help mask it. The worn bushings are allowing the axle to move in a way that can not be restricted by springs and shocks. This makes for some unpredictable weight transfer when going over a bump while cornering.

Replace the torque arm bushing with poly, or a solid unit like what Kaplhenke sells. Do they make replacement pan hard bushings? I just got a replacement PH rod with heim joints.
If you're beating on your car, you will need to consider reenforcing the subframe connector. Yoshifab has a good budget weld on kit, and Ben sells a high dollar replacement. At least inspect the subframe connector when you are replacing the bushings so see how worn and bent it is.

There really isn't anything else to say on this issue. Spring and shock talk should be in another thread, it's not going to fix this particular issue, it may mask it, but you're still going to have a floppy rear end, and no one wants to rock a floppy rear end.
That makes a lot of sense. Maybe I'll be able to pick up some at this IPD garage sale of theres.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:51 PM   #21
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Too late for this round, but this would be the way to go if you can't get them at the garage sale.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...p+buy+superpro
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:35 PM   #22
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Here shows my Noobness again. How does a group buy work?
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:47 PM   #23
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Went to PnP yesterday got a new front bumper and while I was looking around I got all exited for nothing. I thought I seen a blue sway bar under the rear of a 940 wagon. My first thought was an IPD sway bar so either a 125 dollar profit or savings, but it turns out it just had a spot of blue that rubbed right off. But my question is, wouldn't the stock one still be beneficial to my car since I don't even have one?
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:55 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by CaliMeatwagon View Post
Went to PnP yesterday got a new front bumper and while I was looking around I got all exited for nothing. I thought I seen a blue sway bar under the rear of a 940 wagon. My first thought was an IPD sway bar so either a 125 dollar profit or savings, but it turns out it just had a spot of blue that rubbed right off. But my question is, wouldn't the stock one still be beneficial to my car since I don't even have one?
Generally no it won't on a wagon.
That's why Volvo didn't put one on the 700-900 wagons.
If you get an IPD front bar then a stock rear bar would be beneficial.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:02 PM   #25
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Thank you, its only $25 at PnP so I figured if it did help it would be worth, but since it won't never mind lol

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Generally no it won't on a wagon.
That's why Volvo didn't put one on the 700-900 wagons.
If you get an IPD front bar then a stock rear bar would be beneficial.
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