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Old 05-07-2012, 08:05 AM   #1
sailonbear
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Default Hot no-start 940 Turbo

I'm having a problem with my 92 940 Turbo wagon. Occasionally, it won't re-start after driven for awhile. It doesn't seem to be a starter/battery/ground problem. The problem seems to be in a circuit that prevents power to the starter. The inline fuel pump does come on. Lights do not dim when turning the key as would happen with a battery/starter/ground problem. Starter will not turn at all. Does not turn slow or attempt to turn. After cooling down the car will crank and start normally. Seems to be a heat related problem. Never does it when cool/cold. Also, sometimes while starting, the start circuit hesitates before starting. I will turn the key and nothing happens for a second or two. No dimming of the lights etc. that would show a battery/starter problem. Just a slight hesitation then cranks at normal speed and starts. Seems like something is interupting the circuit for a second.

The car did get a little low on coolant awhile back due to a leak at the reservoir. Problem seems to have gotten worse recently. I changed the coolant temp sensor thinking that that could have been the problem.

I have poured some water over the engine and radiator to speed the cooling process and that seems to have helped but that could have just been my imagination.

Could it ba a relay in the start circuit between the ignition switch and starter? I haven't tried to jump the starter to see what would happen. Will try that next time it does this.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:54 AM   #2
TrickMick
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http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/v...940%201992.pdf

you *should have* a "service socket" to spin the starter up (in the engine bay)-PINK WIRE
you have NOT declared MANUAL or AUTO transmission (auto trans has an INHIBIT switch)
which DOES make a difference in the current path to the starter solenoid...

symptomology you describe tracks HIGH RESISTANCE (either in the STARTER MOTOR itself
or the SOLENOID *BOTH* hot AND cold will cause resistance to rise).....
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:08 PM   #3
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I am also having No start issues. My starter is acting like its pulling tons of current. I have to turn the crank by hand to get the solenoid to let back well.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I am also having No start issues. My starter is acting like its pulling tons of current. I have to turn the crank by hand to get the solenoid to let back well.
time to beg / borrow / purchase one of these (or similar):
http://www.hoytmeter.com/products/SG...Indicator.html

no muss no fuss...clip over starter cable and crank away!
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:25 PM   #5
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My starter was also making a bad noise when cranking excessively during problems restarting hot. NOW it has NOT restarted on me twice. It drained the battery and wouldn't restart. Im gonna start a thread on it.


Started a thread on it:

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/sh...d.php?t=258154

Last edited by ZVOLV; 05-07-2012 at 02:05 PM..
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickMick View Post
time to beg / borrow / purchase one of these (or similar):
http://www.hoytmeter.com/products/SG...Indicator.html

no muss no fuss...clip over starter cable and crank away!
I think I have one of those in the tool box at my parents house. I will go grab it and see what happens.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:59 PM   #7
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TrickMick,
It's an automatic. I don't think it's the inhibit switch. It will not start in neutral either. The problem is definitely heat related. I also don't think it is the starter or solenoid because there would be a heavy current drain if it was a bad starter and the solenoid would at least 'click' if it was the solenoid wouldn't it?
Thanks.
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:34 PM   #8
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When car isn't starting, check for 12v at the blue/yellow signal wire at the starter. If it isn't there, you found your problem!
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:29 PM   #9
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No power at the solenoid but only when it's hot.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailonbear View Post
No power at the solenoid but only when it's hot.
WHICH TERMINAL HAS *NO POWER*??
the MAINS ABLE (the huge-assed one) or the starter "signal" wire (the little one that
energizes the solenoid)???
you have to be specific here....

have you found your TEST SOCKET yet??..or, alternatively, run a FRESH WIRE
to the solenoid signal terminal and touch the other end to the battery POSITIVE
POST....(this will remove the INHIBIT SWITCH from the circuit)....
bad solenoids and bad starters present MANY SYMPTOMS...there will be *NO*
heavy current drain if the solenoid is shot because it will not move far enough
"into engagement" to close the BIG CONTACTS INSIDE....*AND* the solenoid
may not click at all or it may *click* but not MOVE.....
*MANY* "mains wires" from the BATTERY will CORRODE "further up
the insulation" giving you the false impression that the wire is "solid" and
conducting current..as ALWAYS w/Volvo - clean / tight / non-corroded
connections and grounds are de rigueur!
report back...
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:03 AM   #11
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I'l try to be more specific and I appreciate your help.

I have not found the "test socket' that you mentioned. I also was wrong about not having power to the solenoid (either wire), I don't know for sure if I have power or not at the solenoid at either wire when the car is having this problem. The problem does not occur consistently and I cannot seem to make it happen on demand. I have tried to drive and get it nice and hot and return home but it re-starts every time.

But if I'm out for dinner with friends, in clean clothes, without tools and far from home, it likes to leave me stranded until she's nice and ready to return home.

I did find out that I can jump the solenoid with a screwdriver, so I will go prepared with tools and test light on next dinner outing.

I have never had a solenoid fail that didn't make a clicking noise as it tried and failed to perform it's intended duty which caused me to assume that it had not failed without proof. That will be the first thing that I check at next opportunity.

If the solenoid and starter are functioning properly and I am not getting power to the solenoid, what would be my next step? The problem seems to be heat related.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:13 AM   #12
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*CALL FOR HELP HERE*
does anyone have a *PICTURE* of the firewall harness and the "starter
test terminal" (the pink wire as shown on his WIRING DIAGRAMME) ???
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Old 05-08-2012, 12:31 PM   #13
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DISCONNECT the yellow/blue wire from the starter when it happens. Check it for 12v using a friend turning the key. If the voltage isn't there, trace it back to the Neutral switch at the shifter and then to the ignition switch and find out where it goes missing. Most likely the NSS.
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