The official DSM CAS information and install guide

[dalek]

Is it me or this guy here would work?

[meeki007]

so got 12k miles on the head mounted DSM CAS distro modd. See previous posts in this thread for a howto I made to do it.

The setup failed last week. Thought I'd give a rundown of what I found.

I first started getting miss sync on startup about 2 weeks earlyer. I have not been driving this 1 of 3 Volvos much for the last month.

I got a no start no sync issue last week.

Pulled unit off the back of the head and then tested all the wires back to the MS. All was well.

Spun unit by hand while plugged in to see if the fuel pump would start running as norm - NOTHING

Banged unit on side of manifold and then spun it and the fuel pump started priming and the computer (MS) showed the CAS was wroking again. Odd.

Unplugged CAS and took the top off. Found rusty Yoshifab hires trigger disc



As you can see where the sensor goes around is clean-er. So I fig that the sensor was clogged up with rust dust.

So I put a white index card folded over into the sensor slot and drug it through and I got a bunch of rust particles.


Now I used MAF air cleaner to clean the unit before I even put it in my car so I know it was clean 12k miles ago.

I thought maybe I had water / moisture in the unit that made the disk rust so I start looking at other things in the unit that would rust.
Wire contacts were clean



Inside of unit clean does not look to have moisture issue.



Here is an older uncleaned CAS and you can see that it rusted over time. So I don't think I had water in mine.



Last is a pic of the disk and the rust on it.



I dunked the CAS black sensor plate in 98% alcohol and shook it around, then sprayed it with MAF cleaner. Then sprayed it our with compressed air.

Put it all back together and the unit works. I think that the Yoshifab hires trigger disc rust caused the issue. Guess we will know in another 12k miles.

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For the 2 guys that bought my Head mounted distributor plate modd and any one else that has done the conversion might want to know what I found as well.

I Noticed that the pin in the shaft and the key that fits in the back of the cam were worn bad!!! see video of slop.



I put on a new key and pin. Also added 1mm of space with some washers between the volvo plate and the CAS. Based on the oblong hole shape it looks like the unit was being pressed hard on the back of the cam.

[sdturbo]

All of our cas disk are zinc plated currently. If you bought one from us before we started plating and are having issues we will exchange it for a plated one.

[doucheNozzle]

Originally Posted by sdturbo

All of our cas disk are zinc plated currently. If you bought one from us before we started plating and are having issues we will exchange it for a plated one.

Meaning sync issues?

[sdturbo]

Originally Posted by scottyd

Meaning sync issues?

Meaning problems with rust like above. His is the only case I have seen, we plate them just to make them look pretty now.

[Lord_Athlon]

His looks rusted because the disc was in contact with the sensor.

[gross polluter]

Originally Posted by Lord_Athlon

His looks rusted because the disc was in contact with the sensor.

Exactly. Meeki's issues weren't caused by rust. It's perfectly clear in the picture his home made adapter placed excessive thrust load on the CAS and train wrecked the disc into the sensor. A tiny bit of surface rust, although not ideal, won't cause the disk to rub against the sensor like that.

Case in point:

Originally Posted by meeki007

Based on the oblong hole shape it looks like the unit was being pressed hard on the back of the cam.

[meeki007]

Originally Posted by gross polluter

Exactly. Meeki's issues weren't caused by rust. It's perfectly clear in the picture his home made adapter placed excessive thrust load on the CAS and train wrecked the disc into the sensor. A tiny bit of surface rust, although not ideal, won't cause the disk to rub against the sensor like that.

Yep! well kinda.

Had a thrust issue ( CAS pressed against cam ). Did not help but only 1/3 of the disk was rubbing. Found out that my disk was ever so slightly bent. I fig it was from me when putting it into the unit the hard way ( not loosing up the 3 screws that hold the sensor plate ). I got it flat again used a run out gauge while turning the unit by hand in a vice to check it.
Oh I got it flat by putting between 2 flat chunks of 1/2 in plate steel and clamping them down on the disk. Heat till just truing red and quenched it.

Also shimmed the CAS unit out from the volvo distro plate .8mm . Used clay and test fitted it on the backup head and i had about .2 mm of clay left so it should be good now with out any thrust issue.

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I'm not slaming Josh (yoshifab.com) for this. Here was my email to him before any one replied to my post.

NOV 20th

Originally Posted by meeki

hey guys this is meeki007 on turbobricks.

Ive noticed an issue with my hires trigger disc.

It only takes 45min to clean it out every 12k miles so I'm not upset
or looking for a refund. Just thought you might what to know.

See my post -----> http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=224740&page=5

Let me know if you make a disk out of stainless or plated with
something, so I can get one.

NOV 21st

Originally Posted by yoshifab.com

We zinc plate them all now for cosmetic reasons. I can send you a plated one if you want to mail your unplated one back. Sorry you had an issue, first one I have heard having a problem like this.

NOV 21st

Originally Posted by meeki

I live in portland OR it rains here 24/7 Its probably not a prob in a
dryer climate.

I like your stuff and your service so I'll just buy another disk from
ya a few weeks after my wife stops Christmas shopping and keep it
on hand for the next time It happens.

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All is well. I still think rust caused the sensor to fail. Sure that it lightly scraping in the unit did not help. We will see what happens in another 15k miles.

Oh and I'm proud of my "home made adapter". I used micrometers, bench press, upright 3/4 hp mounted belt sander with a flat plate behind the belt, to get er done. I would not recommend trying to do it with a hand drill and a vise

I love tinkering. The 2 units I sold for 50 USD each shipped. DSM CAS sensor and All hardware included. So I Sold them pretty much at cost not even counting the labor to make them or the time to find and pull the units at the junk-yard. I also sold them as TEST UNITS. I fully explained that there is no guarantee that they will work long hull. So they went in knowing what was taking place internally. I posted the thrust issue for others that may have made there own head mounted unit based on my directions.

As it stand right now I Have pulled 12 head mounted distributors over the last year when I find them at the junkyard. If and when I get the unit perfected I'll start releasing them. AS of now I have another 12k miles to go before I'm ready to even consider it. I want to provide a part that lasts 55k miles with out inspection.

Meeki

[Lord_Athlon]

The bit of surface rust blocking the optics happened because it got scraped off by the thrust failure.

[linuxman51]

Originally Posted by meeki007

Yep! well kinda.

Had a thrust issue ( CAS pressed against cam ). Did not help but only 1/3 of the disk was rubbing. Found out that my disk was ever so slightly bent. I fig it was from me when putting it into the unit the hard way ( not loosing up the 3 screws that hold the sensor plate ). I got it flat again used a run out gauge while turning the unit by hand in a vice to check it.
Oh I got it flat by putting between 2 flat chunks of 1/2 in plate steel and clamping them down on the disk. Heat till just truing red and quenched it.

Also shimmed the CAS unit out from the volvo distro plate .8mm . Used clay and test fitted it on the backup head and i had about .2 mm of clay left so it should be good now with out any thrust issue.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm not slaming Josh (yoshifab.com) for this. Here was my email to him before any one replied to my post.

NOV 20th



NOV 21st



NOV 21st


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All is well. I still think rust caused the sensor to fail. Sure that it lightly scraping in the unit did not help. We will see what happens in another 15k miles.

Oh and I'm proud of my "home made adapter". I used micrometers, bench press, upright 3/4 hp mounted belt sander with a flat plate behind the belt, to get er done. I would not recommend trying to do it with a hand drill and a vise

I love tinkering. The 2 units I sold for 50 USD each shipped. DSM CAS sensor and All hardware included. So I Sold them pretty much at cost not even counting the labor to make them or the time to find and pull the units at the junk-yard. I also sold them as TEST UNITS. I fully explained that there is no guarantee that they will work long hull. So they went in knowing what was taking place internally. I posted the thrust issue for others that may have made there own head mounted unit based on my directions.

As it stand right now I Have pulled 12 head mounted distributors over the last year when I find them at the junkyard. If and when I get the unit perfected I'll start releasing them. AS of now I have another 12k miles to go before I'm ready to even consider it. I want to provide a part that lasts 55k miles with out inspection.

Meeki

I rolled one with a benchtop drill press and an old vice. checked for thrust problems by not bolting it all together, and installing on the car to see what gave where, spaced the cas off the adapter a bit and moved on. so far so good, but it probably only has a couple k on it right now, I don't drive the 940 that much. need to get some other stuff sorted on it.

[gross polluter]

Originally Posted by Lord_Athlon

The bit of surface rust blocking the optics happened because it got scraped off by the thrust failure.

Yep. Had there been no rust the sensor disc would have eventually worn into the optics and damaged the sensor completely. It goes without saying that there should be ZERO thrust load on the sensor shaft. Additionally oil and/or moisture can damage the optics on the sensor. If excessive oil or moisture enters the sensor housing the sensor will need to be resealed or replaced.

Also, another thing I should point out is the sensor disc mounts between two washers that assist in keeping the disc as flat as possible. There should be minimal runout when the disc rotates. A noticeably bent disc after install is more than likely the result of improper installation (forcing the disc into the sensor slot at an angle) and should be replaced.

[str8krewzn]

So i got the CAS in, and now i have no signal....i got power, ground, 5v on the other two when spinning....

[blkaplan]

Originally Posted by str8krewzn

So i got the CAS in, and now i have no signal....i got power, ground, 5v on the other two when spinning....

check your wiring connectors.

[photoman327]

subscribed

[str8krewzn]

Originally Posted by blkaplan

check your wiring connectors.

-__- I bought a connector today Ben

fied

[sdturbo]

Originally Posted by str8krewzn

-__- I bought a connector today Ben

fied

A cas connector? Source?

[str8krewzn]

Originally Posted by sdturbo

A cas connector? Source?

Off a 94 galant tps, I took a razer and took off the plastic locator on one side and it pluged up perfect...

[seads505]

Originally Posted by gross polluter

Started writing the wiring guide tonight. Ran into writers block.

For the time being, You can follow the directions on DIYautotune's website on how to configure your MS hardware for the DSM CAS:

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...alon_laser.htm

Any progress on the wiring/hardware mod write-up? This has been an extremely helpful resource and I'm looking forward to this section.

[242Fast]

Originally Posted by sdturbo

A cas connector? Source?

Just bought one of these, I'm planning on filing off the key on the bottom side of the CAS connector, I'm hoping the top key will fit into the slot on the connector. If you click on the 3D model you should be able to get the idea. I also measured the connector the came with my CAS (cracked and no clip from junkyard but enough was there to measure) and the block in the middle appears to be the same dimension.

Will post with pictures when it comes in.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...531-ND/1860775

As far as wiring, I wanted to double check with you guys as to whether I've done mine right (still working on it but I can get a tach signal in the composite logger with MS3 on the bench by grounding the tach-in pin (my understanding is the CAS pulls the tach-in pin low during each window of the hi-res wheel)). I'm working with this circuit diagram for v3.0 board

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_4_1.htm

it appears this circuit diagram is the same too, yes? Replacing R12 with 470ohm resistor provides 5V to the anode of the opto-isolator LED and the CAS provides the ground.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_4g63.htm

[Jordan]

Ok I have a very simple question mostly because I have ZERO experience in this and I am a beginner. On MS3 there is a shielded wire labelled "WHITE: CRANK CKP+/RPM INPUT BLACK:CKP-" It has two wires inside the shield, a white and a black.



EDIT --- The white is Crank POSITIVE and the Black is Crank NEGATIVE. So the White would go to Pin 2 and the Black to Pin 4...

Is this correct?

The more I think about it the more I think they both go to Pin 2.

[242Fast]

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardware.html#wiring

From this diagram it looks like the white and black wires you're looking at in the picture are connected as follows:

white wire to pin 24 on the main MS3 plug
black wire to pin 1 on the main MS3 plug

if so then the white wire is the crank pulse, which you figured out correctly to go to pin 2 on the CAS and the black wire is simply a ground (pin 1 on the main MS3 plug is grounded to the other ground pins on the main MS3 plug). You can use this black wire to go to pin 4 on the DSM CAS connector to provide a ground for the sensor.

In short:

EDIT --- The white is Crank POSITIVE and the Black is Crank NEGATIVE. So the White would go to Pin 2 and the Black to Pin 4...

Is this correct?

Yes.

note: I'm assuming DIYautotune's color coded wires correspond to the diagram in the MS3 hardware manual (link above)

[Jordan]

Well I got some contradicting information from Nathan (whom I strongly believe knows his ****) He states that the CKP- (the black wire) does not get used in this situation. It is for a VR sensor, not a Optical/Hall style like our DSM's in this case.

So the white CKP+ goes to Pin 2 on the CAS and the black CKP- gets left alone.

[B-dub]

Originally Posted by Jordan

Well I got some contradicting information from Nathan (whom I strongly believe knows his ****) He states that the CKP- (the black wire) does not get used in this situation. It is for a VR sensor, not a Optical/Hall style like our DSM's in this case.

So the white CKP+ goes to Pin 2 on the CAS and the black CKP- gets left alone.

Two people with running cars that say not to use the Black wire is good enough for me.

[nathaninwa]

Looking at the manual, and reading post 4, it looks like you need a pull up resistor. Read that post.

[B-dub]

Originally Posted by nathaninwa

Looking at the manual, and reading post 4, it looks like you need a pull up resistor. Read that post.

That is correct. A 1k resistor is needed between the 12v power wire, and the signal (white) wire.