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Old 06-25-2012, 02:58 PM   #1
cjsafski
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Default MS2 Sync Loss Durring Cranking

So after swapping in a new motor I can not get the car to start. I have narrowed it down to an issue with the megasquirt since I can start the car with the stock ecus. The car is originally a lh 2.4 car with a VR sensor and 60-2 wheel. I am using the stock harness and sensors for the megasquirt. After doing the swap I found the casing on the VR sensor wiring had decomposed and replaced it. Figured that was the problem but it still will not start with the MS. I tried messing with the VR pots on the MS but that had no effect on the problem. Here are some screenshots during cranking from TS if they help.



There seems to be extra missing teeth here. I thought maybe the flexplate got bent during the swap but it starts with the stock ecu fine. Also I tried reducing the airgap a little on the VR sensor but still got the same.



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Old 06-25-2012, 03:05 PM   #2
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Sure you didn't bend the flexplate? Those tooth errors are pretty consistent.
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:18 PM   #3
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I had already tried looking for large bends and couldn't see any. Also it starts with the stock ecu and idles which is what I find odd. Would the stock ecu be able to deal with a bent flexplate?
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:02 PM   #4
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Silly question, but what are you using for power for the MS box? If it's switched +12V, it will cut out during cranking. May not be related to the flex plates at all.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:19 PM   #5
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Using the original harness for the stock ecu. The car started and ran fine with megasquirt on the old motor so that is not the problem.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakar09 View Post
If it's switched +12V, it will cut out during cranking.
If that was the case then he wouldn't be able to capture a trigger log during cranking.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:45 PM   #7
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Found mine was a PITA to get to do ANYTHING one one VR sensor, swapped in a new Bougi brand sensor and a lot of the tooth errors and funkyness went away, allowing me to actually get it to run. Still gotta get that box back into the car....
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:10 PM   #8
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I have a brand new sensor in it right now and it acts no different. Really starting to think I barely bent the flexplate enough when swapping in the motor for the MS to not read it properly. Just still find it odd that that the stock ecu can. I have almost everything for a T5 swap sitting here so maybe I should just swap the trans in and hope it reads.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:22 PM   #9
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Point I was getting at is there's variances in sensors, depending on source. Mine ran perfect on 2.4, but was a PITA on MS til I swapped in the different sensor. The one I took out was from FCP, plastic packaging with no name, had 15k on it. The one that went in was from a Bougi box. Actually found a slightly hotter signal from it on the scope than with the one I took out. Kenny mentioned having seen that before as well.

Not saying that's your issue, just sayin....

Perhaps pup the cover plate off the trans, grab your dial indicator and see what the runout is on the tone ring?
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:58 PM   #10
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Give this a try:

http://brickems.com/brickrpm/
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:14 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjsafski View Post
I had already tried looking for large bends and couldn't see any. Also it starts with the stock ecu and idles which is what I find odd. Would the stock ecu be able to deal with a bent flexplate?
Little bends, yes. The VR circuit on the 3.0 board can as well, provided the pots are set correctly. With both pots completely CCW, adjust the hysteresis clockwise one turn at a time and see if that helps.

My 2JZ crank trigger does the same thing unless I have 6-7 turns into the hysteresis pot.
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:23 AM   #12
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which pot is the hyst pot?
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:45 AM   #13
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R52
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:04 PM   #14
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Turning R52 clockwise only makes more teeth disappear until the ecu sees nothing.
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:46 PM   #15
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After playing with the pots a bit more I could get it to where there was a consistent 10 teeth missing on the log. Gave that area of the flexplate a little love with the prybar through the inspection hole and the signal improved. Almost got it to start but the gap started to return all of the sudden. I guess the flexplate was tweaked enough to where it returned to the messed up position. The battery died and needs to charge overnight. If I cant get it to start tomorrow just going to just swap my T5 trans in and be done with this auto BS.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjsafski View Post
Turning R52 clockwise only makes more teeth disappear until the ecu sees nothing.
There's a point where too many turns of R52 will result in complete drop of the VR signal. Even weak signals shouldn't start dropping until 4-5 turns in. If you're dropping the signal right off the bat, there are other problems.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:19 PM   #17
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Prybar wins again. Seems it was the flexplate after all. The car is now running after giving the flexplate some love with the prybar through the inspection hole.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:48 PM   #18
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:36 PM   #19
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W00p w00p
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