Rebuild or not to rebuild

[falkenfighter]

OK so I have an 89 240dl wagon with the B230f and a M47 behind it.

When I got the car over a year ago it had some piston slap, i continued to drive it till it just felt super down on power and kept dying on me. I figured the motor was probably done. So the car sat for the past few months awaiting either to be reborn or to be sold. In the mean time I picked up a 85 BMW 325e and it is now my daily. Im into drifting and this E30 is super clean for Kansas and just seems like to nice to destroy by sliding, this takes me back to my lonely wagon/yard art.

I jumpstarted it and it ran long enough to pull into the shop where i started to break it down. Granted I have a limited toolset and Im working alone. I have the head removed along with the harness and starting to remove the accessories.

Cyl 1 was slapping bad. Now my main question is, is it worth rebuilding my engine? Or is it worth getting a junkyard motor?

Keep in mind that the u-pull it yards here charge $99.99 for a "block and head". Also keep in mind that I intend to slide this wagon and that I do not intend to turbo it at this time.

Thanks for the help!

[Lando]

Originally Posted by falkenfighter

OK so I have an 89 240dl wagon with the B230f and a M47 behind it.

When I got the car over a year ago it had some piston slap, i continued to drive it till it just felt super down on power and kept dying on me. I figured the motor was probably done. So the car sat for the past few months awaiting either to be reborn or to be sold. In the mean time I picked up a 85 BMW 325e and it is now my daily. Im into drifting and this E30 is super clean for Kansas and just seems like to nice to destroy by sliding, this takes me back to my lonely wagon/yard art.

I jumpstarted it and it ran long enough to pull into the shop where i started to break it down. Granted I have a limited toolset and Im working alone. I have the head removed along with the harness and starting to remove the accessories.

Cyl 1 was slapping bad. Now my main question is, is it worth rebuilding my engine? Or is it worth getting a junkyard motor?

Keep in mind that the u-pull it yards here charge $99.99 for a "block and head". Also keep in mind that I intend to slide this wagon and that I do not intend to turbo it at this time.

Thanks for the help!

How do you know you need a new engine? Do a compression and leak down test. A lot of redblocks slap and still perform, and last a long time.

Heres what mine sounds like and it runs fine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxKFtCU0COs&feature=plcp

Your power issue probably lies elsewhere.

[falkenfighter]

It progressively got worse with time, it would rev soooo slow and then wouldnt go past 4k. I would prefer an engine that doesnt slap. Is the slap that prevalent as in if I were to get a junkyard motor it will probably slap?

[Lando]

Originally Posted by falkenfighter

It progressively got worse with time, it would rev soooo slow and then wouldnt go past 4k. I would prefer an engine that doesnt slap. Is the slap that prevalent as in if I were to get a junkyard motor it will probably slap?

It's a roll of the dice. You could spend 8 hours and a few hundred bucks and still have no power and an engine that still slaps. You dont know if its low compression causing poor performance or something in the fuel and ignition control.

Until you know why that engine is down on power, you shouldn't replace it. If the problem is caused by a blocked exhaust, bad ECU, bad amm or O2, the problem will still exist even with the new engine. Also, your piston slap may go away or get quieter once you improve the idle.

My recommendation, compression test and leak down first, if those check out start diagnosing. Firing the parts cannon rarely works out in your favor and costs more money.

[TrickMick]

Originally Posted by Lando

It's a roll of the dice. You could spend 8 hours and a few hundred bucks and still have no power and an engine that still slaps. You dont know if its low compression causing poor performance or something in the fuel and ignition control.

Until you know why that engine is down on power, you shouldn't replace it. If the problem is caused by a blocked exhaust, bad ECU, bad amm or O2, the problem will still exist even with the new engine. Also, your piston slap may go away or get quieter once you improve the idle.

My recommendation, compression test and leak down first, if those check out start diagnosing. Firing the parts cannon rarely works out in your favor and costs more money.

that train left the station awhile ago...HE'S PULLED THE HEAD...so many 240's end up
as parts fodder EXACTLY because of this...damn....

[Lando]

Originally Posted by TrickMick

that train left the station awhile ago...HE'S PULLED THE HEAD...so many 240's end up
as parts fodder EXACTLY because of this...damn....

Missed that bit, not too late to do a leak down. How do the bores look? Bearing clearances?

[nel621]

What is the repair for piston slap?I know a well tuned engine will run for a long time with the slap,sold one with 300k and loud slap but ran strong as heck,but what do you replace to eliminate the slap?

[Lando]

Originally Posted by nel621

What is the repair for piston slap?I know a well tuned engine will run for a long time with the slap,sold one with 300k and loud slap but ran strong as heck,but what do you replace to eliminate the slap?

Some just do it and others dont. Mine did it before and after a full engine rebuild. The only thing that was reused was crank and block. I havent heard or heard of a squirter block doing it. If you are going to rebuild, squirterize it.

[johfraser]

IMHO there is nothing as good as a car with a well-built engine. It takes the most time, cost the most, requires measuring instruments to check the machine shop's work before assembly, and a break-in period. But you learn the most and are guaranteed a smile every time you drive it.

[coonmanx]

Throw a Ford 350 V8 in there and call it a day.

Originally Posted by coonmanx

Throw a Ford 350 V8 in there and call it a day.

Fords are 351..

[harribert]

^lol

Find a good used (150k or less, good crosshatch and little/no ridge at the top of the bores) 93+ B230FT, and just reseal it (maybe re-ring it too if ya want). That's a nice little motor with some pep, and if you don't do many/any performance mods, your M47 will live a long and happy life bolted to it. That is, if you want to DD it.

Now, is your plan to drift the wagon?

[coonmanx]

Originally Posted by duce40

Fords are 351..

You are correct sir. A V8 would probably make a nice drift car.

[gottarollwithit]

At this point, if you have the skills and $$, just grab a good JY squirter block/head and toss it in. For $100, some time and fluids, you can pretty much rule out the engine as the prob. Try to get a squirter block motor from a car that has been crashed.

You already pulled the head, so ya can't do a leak down or comp test. At this point, it's a gamble to put things back together.
I'm with Lando though, do the bores look good? You could have a number of different problems that could cause low power.

While a fully rebuilt motor is nice, you should know that it's going to be expensive. Bearings, machining, gaskets, balancing, assembly all take $$.
If it were me, i'd inspect the bores and make sure that the head is straight and just spend 15 bucks and buy a head gasket. Slap that head on and see if ya got good compression. If ya do, then i'd get exhaust, intake, and water pump gaskets and seal it all back up. Find whatever else is causing your probs. If ya don't have good compression, it's JY motor time and ya just ate $15 for a HG.
Pulling a motor is a lotta work and is a pain. Maybe ya can save yourself some time.


Btw, how do you know that cylinder 1 is slapping badly?

[falkenfighter]

I do plan on drifting it
Piston in cyl 1 can be moved back and forth on the wrist pin. I can make it slap with my fingers.
This motor is just done. It leaks oil from everywhere, ran like poo, and sounded worse. Before anyone says "it was probably the flame trap" i replaced all of it when i got it

Ill probably get a junkyard squirter motor, get a clutch, and put it in

My M47 has bad 1st and 2nd syncros so its probably gonna die soon or just be replaced. M47s are hard to find here

[harribert]

Originally Posted by falkenfighter

I do plan on drifting it
Piston in cyl 1 can be moved back and forth on the wrist pin. I can make it slap with my fingers.
This motor is just done. It leaks oil from everywhere, ran like poo, and sounded worse. Before anyone says "it was probably the flame trap" i replaced all of it when i got it

Ill probably get a junkyard squirter motor, get a clutch, and put it in

My M47 has bad 1st and 2nd syncros so its probably gonna die soon or just be replaced. M47s are hard to find here

SINCE you are drifting...


To be honest, it might be better to use an automatic for drifting than that poor excuse for a gearbox. Either that or a T-5 or Getrag 265 or Volvo M90 or Toyota W-58. All of the swaps are expensive. It's just a matter of where and when you wanna hemorrhage your hard-earned pennies. Personally I would go with a GM world-class T-5 with a JVAB bellhousing.

As for the motor, yeah a nice resealed 93+ long block. FT or just F is fine either way, actually...you have to drill a hole in the F (but likely less piston wear), but not in the FT (higher chance of wear).

For drifting mods, find a G80 carrier or a proper LSD.

For the motor it's simple: exhaust, turbo, cam, intercooler, chips...plus the necessary supporting mods, obviously.

[falkenfighter]

Since mine is dist in block i have to get a dist in block right?

Did 740 and 940s come dist in block?

[Lando]

Originally Posted by falkenfighter

Since mine is dist in block i have to get a dist in block right?

Did 740 and 940s come dist in block?

No. You can get either or.