240 Helpz 1989 245 wont stay running

Ralph_Wolf · 07-05-2012, 05:22 PM

It starts but dies quickly. If I jump fuse 4 to 6 I can hear the a fuel pump running. It ran when I parked it a couple weeks ago. Its been running a little rough at start up for the last couple months now but idles smooth after a minute or so. We've had 100 degree weather for nearly 2 weeks. Not sure if this could have contributed to it. I checked the fault code and in position 6 it gives a 1 4 4 but in position 2 the led just stays lit and wont read.

Im gonna go back out and check the power at the pump under the car as I think the one in the tank is fine. if I have to replace them should I only use oem or will autozone suffice?

Im supposed to take it camping this weekend with my son....

TrickMick · 07-05-2012, 06:42 PM

I'll prolly get shelled for this but: PUMPS MAKING NOISE IS SO MUCH NOISE....

PRESSURE IN THE LOOP and VOLUME of DELIVERY are EVERYTHING...
pull a sample of what is circulating in the loop (in a CLEAN GLASS JAR) and let
it sit for an hour or so..look for WATER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE JAR....

dunno how many of our fellow TBrixers have stated "Fuel is FINE, no problem
w/the REGULATOR ("I pulled the vac line and there was no fuel so it's OK...")
and there is fuel getting to the injectors...until you have put a GAUGE IN THE LOOP
you're not learning anything...and can speak even less to the problem....

go HERE:
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/LH%202.4
and download the "LH2.4 manual COMPLETE

go HERE:
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?...oting%20Guides
and get "LH2.4 FAULT TRACING" as well as "VOLVO NO START"

you will have FACTORY INFO at hand and guided STEP BY STEP DIAGNOSIS
schemas to follow....if results you get from tests don't make sense to you then
post back and we'll be here to help...

1) *PLEASE PULL CODES* (if any)
2) *if* you have a "red fuse in a white socket out by the battery..check it....

current drain and "voltage spec to current" for pumps are in the LH2.4 complete
manual (page * 3 * of the document .... pg * 5* of the pdf file)

here is a screed by fellow TBrix member Art B (aka "cleanflametrap" ) on the
IN TANK PUMP rigmorale:
http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm
(trust me on this...his insight will save yer arse from making mistakes)...
I found a NEW LIFT PUMP *MIS_WIRED* exactly as he showed and it saved
me from having to rip the rig out for the second time in one day!
WELL WORTH THE READ!!

MrBill · 07-05-2012, 06:48 PM

MrMick above brings up some good points - especially about the FPR.

I had an FPR fail where it would essentially give random pressure. The car would start, die, run, drive 20 miles, die, etc. No gauge meant A LOT of troubleshooting until 500dollarMatt put vice-grips on the return line and the car immediately ran properly.
Also about the fuse next to the battery - that thing has caused at least three no-starts to me and/or locals that own volvos.

Ralph_Wolf · 07-05-2012, 06:58 PM

thanks for the info! Ill report back. I have rplaced the fuse and holder at the batt. I also checked it for power. I pulled the cover in the rear and checked for power at the intank pump and found it had little maybe 2-3 volts at ign on and during crank. Im gonna look into the 144 fault code now.

Also has anyone had the 144 code before and if so what was the out come?

MrBill · 07-05-2012, 08:24 PM

What is 144?

Damnit I wish people wouldn't make me look up what the code means.

MrBill · 07-05-2012, 08:30 PM

Edit:
Load signal from MFI system absent.

So is position 6 the EZK I assume?

I'm going to go out on a limb - this is where I'd start and I'm not sure how helpful I'll be.

You say the codes won't reset on pos 2- which I guess is the fuel computer? And EZK says it isn't receiving a code from the fuel computer. I'd look at the fuel computer - make sure the ground(S) are good, make sure the ecu is functioning properly (does it trigger the fuel pump relay during cranking and/or prime?)
I think it's gonna be an issue with the fuel computer or the wiring with it. Do you have a spare to test?

Ralph_Wolf · 07-05-2012, 11:07 PM

Mr Bill,

That makes a lot of sense. Ill look into that.

Ralph_Wolf · 07-11-2012, 06:10 PM

So it turns out to be the ecu. It was a pink label 561. I replaced it with a 951.

Re-cap The cel had been coming on a lot recently and it was running very rich. It was getting harder to start and sometimes would die on the first start. When I had checked the codes on the diagnostic plug it would just read 1-1-1 in both position #2 and #6. It finally wouldn't start at all. -well it would start and run for a second or two and then die. At this point in position #6 it would show a code 1-4-4. (no load signal from the ezk OR faulty wiring between lh and ezk OR bad lh -ecu) In position #2 the led on the diagnostic box would just light up and stay lit when the jumper was plugged in. I didnt want to believe the ecu was bad as it had been replaced in 97' per the sticker on it. So I chased the problem all over the car -pumps, amm, cps, fpr, relay and ign switch. Finally decided it must be the lh.

This re-cap is for the guy that has this problem and reads all of the other similar post where the op never comes back to report the solution. So this is for you future person with a bad ecu.

links that helped with the diagnosing:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/archiv...hp/t-3923.html

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FAQSummary1.html

Here is a comprehensive link to ecu "swap-ability"
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineFIComputer.html

Love,
Mark

07-05-2012, 05:22 PM	#1
Ralph_Wolf 240 Therapy Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St.Louis	Helpz 1989 245 wont stay running It starts but dies quickly. If I jump fuse 4 to 6 I can hear the a fuel pump running. It ran when I parked it a couple weeks ago. Its been running a little rough at start up for the last couple months now but idles smooth after a minute or so. We've had 100 degree weather for nearly 2 weeks. Not sure if this could have contributed to it. I checked the fault code and in position 6 it gives a 1 4 4 but in position 2 the led just stays lit and wont read. Im gonna go back out and check the power at the pump under the car as I think the one in the tank is fine. if I have to replace them should I only use oem or will autozone suffice? Im supposed to take it camping this weekend with my son....

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07-05-2012, 06:42 PM	#2
TrickMick Board Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: norte carolina	I'll prolly get shelled for this but: PUMPS MAKING NOISE IS SO MUCH NOISE.... PRESSURE IN THE LOOP and VOLUME of DELIVERY are EVERYTHING... pull a sample of what is circulating in the loop (in a CLEAN GLASS JAR) and let it sit for an hour or so..look for WATER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE JAR.... dunno how many of our fellow TBrixers have stated "Fuel is FINE, no problem w/the REGULATOR ("I pulled the vac line and there was no fuel so it's OK...") and there is fuel getting to the injectors...until you have put a GAUGE IN THE LOOP you're not learning anything...and can speak even less to the problem.... go HERE: http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/LH%202.4 and download the "LH2.4 manual COMPLETE go HERE: http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?...oting%20Guides and get "LH2.4 FAULT TRACING" as well as "VOLVO NO START" you will have FACTORY INFO at hand and guided STEP BY STEP DIAGNOSIS schemas to follow....if results you get from tests don't make sense to you then post back and we'll be here to help... 1) PLEASE PULL CODES (if any) 2) if you have a "red fuse in a white socket out by the battery..check it.... current drain and "voltage spec to current" for pumps are in the LH2.4 complete manual (page * 3 * of the document .... pg * 5* of the pdf file) here is a screed by fellow TBrix member Art B (aka "cleanflametrap" ) on the IN TANK PUMP rigmorale: http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm (trust me on this...his insight will save yer arse from making mistakes)... I found a NEW LIFT PUMP MIS_WIRED exactly as he showed and it saved me from having to rip the rig out for the second time in one day! WELL WORTH THE READ!! __________________ In a closed society where everybody’s guilty, the only crime is getting caught. In a world of thieves, the only final sin is stupidity. Last edited by TrickMick; 07-05-2012 at 06:50 PM.. Reason: cain't spel wrth a tinkers dam

07-05-2012, 06:58 PM	#4
Ralph_Wolf 240 Therapy Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St.Louis	thanks for the info! Ill report back. I have rplaced the fuse and holder at the batt. I also checked it for power. I pulled the cover in the rear and checked for power at the intank pump and found it had little maybe 2-3 volts at ign on and during crank. Im gonna look into the 144 fault code now. Also has anyone had the 144 code before and if so what was the out come?

07-05-2012, 08:24 PM	#5
MrBill JohnMc=500Dollar Mistake Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern Maryland	What is 144? Damnit I wish people wouldn't make me look up what the code means.

07-05-2012, 08:30 PM	#6
MrBill JohnMc=500Dollar Mistake Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern Maryland	Edit: Load signal from MFI system absent. So is position 6 the EZK I assume? I'm going to go out on a limb - this is where I'd start and I'm not sure how helpful I'll be. You say the codes won't reset on pos 2- which I guess is the fuel computer? And EZK says it isn't receiving a code from the fuel computer. I'd look at the fuel computer - make sure the ground(S) are good, make sure the ecu is functioning properly (does it trigger the fuel pump relay during cranking and/or prime?) I think it's gonna be an issue with the fuel computer or the wiring with it. Do you have a spare to test?

07-05-2012, 11:07 PM	#7
Ralph_Wolf 240 Therapy Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St.Louis	Mr Bill, That makes a lot of sense. Ill look into that.

07-11-2012, 06:10 PM	#8
Ralph_Wolf 240 Therapy Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St.Louis	So it turns out to be the ecu. It was a pink label 561. I replaced it with a 951. Re-cap The cel had been coming on a lot recently and it was running very rich. It was getting harder to start and sometimes would die on the first start. When I had checked the codes on the diagnostic plug it would just read 1-1-1 in both position #2 and #6. It finally wouldn't start at all. -well it would start and run for a second or two and then die. At this point in position #6 it would show a code 1-4-4. (no load signal from the ezk OR faulty wiring between lh and ezk OR bad lh -ecu) In position #2 the led on the diagnostic box would just light up and stay lit when the jumper was plugged in. I didnt want to believe the ecu was bad as it had been replaced in 97' per the sticker on it. So I chased the problem all over the car -pumps, amm, cps, fpr, relay and ign switch. Finally decided it must be the lh. This re-cap is for the guy that has this problem and reads all of the other similar post where the op never comes back to report the solution. So this is for you future person with a bad ecu. links that helped with the diagnosing: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/archiv...hp/t-3923.html http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FAQSummary1.html Here is a comprehensive link to ecu "swap-ability" http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineFIComputer.html Love, Mark