|11-01-2005, 08:04 AM||#1|
staring at my desk
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: South Wales, UK
The 15G is in, lots of pics!
After battling a few minor problems with the install, including wrestling with the downpipe studs, and tracing down mysterious oil leaks, it's all working great!
Let's start with some history, it's a TD04HL-15G from a 1995 850 T-5 with 104k on the clock, spins freely with very minimal play, got it off ebay for a very good price.
I'm sure it's been documented on how to clock these things many times before, but for a quick recap you have to rotate both housings if you want it to all line up with the 13c's oil and water lines.
After taking it apart (a socket set and a hammer come in handy) this is what needs to be dealt with
The first locating pin, you can either cut this off or pull it out.
WARNING! ACHTUNG! Don't hit it with a hammer, I did and it made the mating surface not quite so round
Next bit to come off is the compressor housing, this is held on to the centre cartridge with a giant clip.
Forget everything you've heard about these things, it's not easy, it's an absolute frickin bastard. You will swear. Lots. Your neighbours will think you've been posessed and will be calling an exorcist. "MITSUBISHI HEAVY INDUSTRIES SUCK COCKS IN HELL" I screamed as the pliers slipped off for the hundredth time.
Anyway... . After you get over that slight inconvenience, you see another locating pin, and again you can cut it off or pull it out.
Once that's done, you can either put it all back together and have some fun, or start some porting work so you can have even more fun!
For porting I used a big corded bosch drill and some carbide burrs, going slow and steady, porting the exhaust housing took me about 3 hours, plus another hour or so the next day when i decided to open up the wastegate hole some more.
All finished . The studs also have to come out, and the threaded holes drilled out.
Once all that's done, thoroughly make sure it's all nice and clean as you don't want metal shavings in your engine!
Next up is to get it all back together with everything lined up how you want it. It's pretty much a reverse of the disassembly, the giant clip for the compressor housing is much easier to put back in than it is to take out, much to my relief.
Getting it all perfect is a bit tricky without another turbo to compare it to, but it can be done, and you can always reclock it slightly when it's in the car if need be.
Now that everything is clocked for a redblock application, you'll notice the actuator is in the wrong place, so a bracket needs to be made. This has been covered loads of times in many different ways, including Turborg's awesome way of mounting it on the manifold stud (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=54545) but here's how I did it.
Looks like crap, but it's solid. After fiddling with it for a while I ended up with 1/8" preload on the actuator arm, which seems to be perfect for 4psi.
I stood back and looked over my work with glee, until later on when I tried to hook up the oil feed.
Needed a last minute modification
Next job was to begin porting the manifold, again using a big drill and carbide burrs.
"It's all about da flowz, woo wooooo"
But that wasn't the end..... The 15g's CBV was well and truly bollocked, so on went the 13c's CBV and all was well.
It's now all hooked up along with the EBC and I can get a massive 6psi before it starts to ping on 95 octane (was running 10psi on the 13c), time for some 98 octane and bigger injectors
Oh and the noise.....WOOOOSSSSSSHHHHHHH
Finally, the usual warnings apply... use eye protection, eyesight is more important than a stupid car, use ear protection if you have it, and don't stick your hand on the downpipe after driving
1998 Volvo S90