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Old 02-06-2019, 03:24 PM   #26
Chilm
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Thanks for the info Swedbrick,

a diy kit sounds interesting, count me in if you have one
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Volvo 945 - Blue Pearl - LPT Polar 2.3 Limited Edition
B230-FK Turbo - 90+ ported - 15G Ported - Airintake
Erland Cox Regrind - Blabla Chips - 3 inch exhaust
MBC on 0.95 - Wasted Spark - Sponsored by my wife

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Old 03-20-2019, 12:49 PM   #27
Swedbrick
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Post A bunch of little fixes

Since the car is finally out of winter storage again, I got to work on a bunch of little fixes on the car I had noticed after getting it running on LH for the first month.

The first fix was the car nearly dying at the stop light if you weren't gentle on the brakes, I suspected the pump having fallen of the hanger, however the issue was in the return tube on the pump hanger. It was aimed in stock position to just outside of the stock bucket in the tank, and the new pump would suck it dry by pumping it all out. This was fixed with a little readjustment of the rotation of the return tube.


The next fix was getting a better fuel pressure regulator installed since I got a lambda code and noticed the car running rich with the bigger walboro pump. I got myself a chinese version that would work, and instantly tore it apart to replace all the orings with quality items (since one of the original ones on the one my brother bought was installed incorrecly), cleared the chips I was warned for and took all of the fittings out, since they were sealed with epoxy. I retapped the threads to get the coating off, added permatex and put the thing back together


Tore apart for cleaning and improvement


The wrongly installed o-ring


With the fuel pressure regulator now fixed, I got to figuring out a way to adapt it to the stock fuel rail for now. I welded a piece of steel to the chopped off end on the original FPR, and drilled and tapped it to fit the npt thread on the reg as a mock-up, I also made a nice bracket and painted it black.


It fit in place like this:


After testing, seeing the needle bounce in all sorts of weird manners and wondering for a while what I managed to mess up, I realized I swapped the in and output of the regulator So off it came again, and a new bracket was made


I then measured the distance, triple checking everything, and got an adapter piece made ready to be tapped to adapt the rail to the regulator for good.


This solved my fuel pressure issue, and I only got the lambda code for idle, for which I expect the leaky exhaust and the ignition system to be to blame. I also made the mistake of installing iridium plugs before upgrading the stock system, which promptly fried the (I assume) already worn rotor, being part of the bad idle problem.


To solve this I swapped back to copper plugs, put on a different rotor and cap I had laying around, and to resolve another expected issue, performed a vacuum leak check with brake clean listening for an change in rpm as I sprayed around all inlet air seals of relevance. Suprisingly no leaks were found The car still idled rough, but better.

I took a look at the plugs once more, and they showed rich


To get this part solved I am planning on getting to a sealed exhaust soon, as well as considering some other interesting options involving COP ignition since I have access to some extra b6304 coilpacks, if I can find space with respect to the turbo manifolds which will be getting a redo soon.


As a conclusion to my day of working through a list of small fixes, I made up a 8mm shim for my center bearing, since the sound of my driveshaft bottoming out, was starting to hurt Luckily this did the trick and the car is much less clunky now


Any tips on other checks I could do for my rough idle would be much appreciated The MAF, IAC and throttle body where cleaned before installation, and I will try to check those soon, but I suspect the issue is elsewhere. Unplugging the MAF results in an even rougher idle, so I'm pretty sure it is not my suspect.
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Last edited by Swedbrick; 06-03-2019 at 01:58 PM.. Reason: fixing the images
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilm View Post
Thanks for the info Swedbrick,

a diy kit sounds interesting, count me in if you have one
Hi Chilm,

I'm currently still setting up a little company to get something like this on offer, hopefully I'll get it made before summer, but it might take a while to get it to work to my liking I'll will most definitely contact you when I have them at the ready.
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Old 03-20-2019, 05:06 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Swedbrick View Post
Hi Chilm,

I'm currently still setting up a little company to get something like this on offer, hopefully I'll get it made before summer, but it might take a while to get it to work to my liking I'll will most definitely contact you when I have them at the ready.
Great... I'll wait
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:36 PM   #30
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Default Rust repairs, and another track session

Hi all, it's about time for another little update on the project.

As part of getting all of the door seals and windows seals fixed on the car, I got a set of side window seals since the old ones were pretty far gone.


The rust I suspected to find was actually the lesser problem, since due to a badly done respray of the car by a previous owner, the paint had separated from the window edge, which had been covered up with silicone sealant instead of an actual repair. This left the rust to propagate, and resulted in the rear window being so loose, that I could push it out by hand


After removing the window and committing to the long road to fixing the rust, I also decided to fix all of the rust spots on the top of the car, including a spot on the a-pillar and a little hole under the left side window strip.


First off the bad paint job and rust got sanded down and rust converter was applied. After which I proceeded by filling all of the bad spots and factory seams.




A few layers of primer after that with many hours of sanding, and the top coats could be applied.


I used paint matched 173-2 with 2 clear topcoats. For now the paint will be left to harden since it is acrylic paint, and will be blended in soon with a possible paint restoration for the whole car.




The trim got put back on, and the preparations for another track day at Zandvoort circuit began (all of this had to happen in about a month mind you:p). First up, a new steering wheel, for which I had to add a 3D printed ABS section to the hub adapter I bought, since it did not include a proper dust seal as the original wheel had







Made it to the trackday okay, even got to see the sunset without laying under the car.


Unfortunately due to a car spinning in front of me on track, I destroyed the edge of my right front tyre on the gravel since I still hit the chicane at some speed. I did have a good laugh with the owner of the corvette however, who was confused by the old Volvo keeping up with him on track


Video of Corvette spinning:p


I also managed to get my hands on some new goodies for the rear axle, which I'll be putting in this weekend


More updates on the track brick to follow soon!


P.S. finally figured out image sizing
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Old 06-20-2019, 11:25 AM   #31
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Default Aussie locker install, engine mounts and sorting out the little stuff

Pretty much a weekend after the track day the car was back up on the usual jack stands over the weekend, ready for the rear end locker.


I zip tied the sway bar to my exhaust and got the cover bolts out


I then completely butchered the splash guard to get the spider gear retaining pin out


Ended up having to dremel it in half, since there was no way it was going to fit through the space available


Then realized I was an idiot for believing that the pin was going to go past the 3.94 ring gear


Proceded to dissasemble all of the things, and make a mess of the rear of my car. I also marked the diff's position and caps with paint, to make sure I would be able to reassemble it all in the right place.


First job on the bench was to remove the splash guard for good, since such ugly buchery cannot be allowed


I took the ring gear off and the spider gears out


Cleaned all of the bits in the parts cleaner and prepped the Aussie locker


Gave the teeth of the locker a good greasing


Got it all in and checked clearance (converted to metric, specs were provided in inches)


I did have to bend the provided spring retaining pins to get it all in before pulling them out to complete the install


Luckily the kit provided the pin I cut in two, so I got that back in correctly


I got the ring gear back on in the same location, torqued the bolts to 100 Nm as specified for flanged bolts by the green book for the 1030


Gave it a greasing and put it back in, reverse order of it all, also re greased the wheel bearings and gave it all a clean and fresh fluids. also replaced the stripped fill plug with the oil pan plug of an 850, same thread and a lot cheaper, long live internet cross referencing:p


Next the sound that gave me a mini heart attack on the way to the track since it went away with the clutch pressed in, sounding like a broken release bearing. Luckily it only was a loose fuel pressure gauge bezel, but it did scratch the glass This time re-installed it with thread locker and spring washers for double the safety.





I then moved on to the motor mounts, which were part of the vibration issue that probably got them loose. Replaced them with some I got from my dad, not sure for which Volvo they were, but with a few extra holes and a bit of cursing when it did not align first try, I got the new ones in, much better, the car feels way smoother now





The last thing I fixed was my coolant leak which I noticed after the trackday when engine bay temps got hot. Whilst pushing my brothers car into storage for winter I found out my fan was not yet ecu operated, boiling the coolant, I have been making due with a jumper for now. The issue was pretty clear when I got the water pump off


The easy job went hard mode when I broke off one of the bolts in my block


The welder got involved, but did not help


I ended up drilling in tapping for an acceptable result, the old bolt was really rusted in there somehow




I got the pump back on with new seals and a cleanup in the parts washer, and also removed my power steering setup. I'll be moving all of that a bit to make room for the future ITB manifold upgrade.

More updates soon on rechipping the ecu for e-fan compatibility, getting buchka wasted spark and cruise control installed and cleaning up the engine bay some more
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Old 08-09-2019, 08:59 AM   #32
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Default Crazy sprint to get to

This post will be a bit more chaotic than normal since I was pushing to get the car ready for the holidays so some things are not in the photo's because I forgot to take them:p The chassis had a lot of work to get done, which will be somewhat summarized below, with some recent post holiday updates for the cruise control included



The first thing on my personal list of things to sort was to get a straight pully on the PS pump once more, so I got to cheap second hand pumps with the V belt wheel, bought a tool from aliexpress and got to work.



Got the new pully on straight, however did manage to break the tightening tool for getting it back on, so much for cheap aliexpress tools haha. This should do for now.



Discovered that the stock bracket would work with 2/3 bolt holes a bit lower on the block so I mocked up a test fit, and also re straightened the original bracket which probably was part of my issue This should allow for my plans for the new long runner intake plenum with the ITB's and give some more space for the two intercooler tubes towards the intake.



Used this to mock up a shorter power steering hose with remaining bits I got with the used pumps, and also got a nicer return hose mounted.



Made a bracket for the bosch coil for the wasted spark upgrade out of aluminium scrap, and gave it a sand for the cool look.




I elongated the hole in the stock PS pump bracket to get the 3 holes to align once more.



And proceeded to install the buchka wasted spark board in my EZK module using the unused EGR pins for the coil signals and launch control controls?



I then made a whole bunch of brackets to clean up the engine bay and mounting of the ecu's along with a bracket to mount the ignition module for the new wasted spark in the location of the firewall weight.



I also made a new bracket for the fuel filter since I did not like its location in the engine compartment, so it got relocated to under the car as it should be.



Had a massive face palm moment when I recieved my new hose with the original mock-up fittings on a new section of hose. These were welded shut, still at a loss how they missed this and decided to put them onto the new hose Made a couple of calls and got the correct hose in the mail just before my holiday, more on how that one turned out later haha



I also recently got to installing the cruise control after the holiday, with the launch control and e-fan switches



The old ezk mounting bracket atop the pedal box made the perfect location for the 940 module (running a 48t axle), and it should all work when I get to finishing it up


As for the holiday I managed to make it to Limburg, the only hilly place in the Netherlands Good mountainbiking adventures were had, and my friends had quite some laughs about the 'streetability' of the locker diff The car also improved quite a bit in fuel consumption and power with the wasted spark setup, which made up for the rattely diff haha.

I also managed to visit Sander during our day trip to Luxembourg to see al the v12 crazyness, getting to see the car in person was really cool, and I got to experience the his awesome dodge challenger on the roads there To repay the favor I gave him a ride in my trusty brick, to get him familiar with the creaks and rattles of the interior again which he had forgotten about, and to remind him of the awesome capabilities of these cars when decently set up, at least to the extend mine is.

Whilst getting a tour of his pretty cool shop I also bought his old xc90 front brake setup since he has since upgraded to bigger and better thing, which I'll be getting to when I get some 17" wheels setup

On the way back unfortunately the new (very $$) power steering hose cracked which I discovered when tightening my banjo to stop the leak in front of the airbnb, when the hose folded in on itself and covered me and the driveway in ps fluid Luckily the owner was really cool and we ended up scrubbing the driveway and all was good. I tied an old shirt under the car disconnected the belt and drove the car home on muscle, I might end up deleting the whole system since I am getting rather fed up with the whole PS endevours

Anyway new updates will follow soon on the turbo manifolds, since I am done with the chassis for now!
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Old 10-12-2019, 02:18 PM   #33
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Default Quick little update

Since it's been a bit since an update, here's a quick little update. With the good weather season progress has been slow, since I'm mostly out for trips and have been enjoying the car running well during trips with my brother in his new very clean beige 744. Here shown just after lowering and a trip to the yearly dutch volvo convention.



Where I ofcourse had plenty of stuff to sell, and gave a little promotion to my little company and took the twin turbo project as a good conversation starter



I also finally got a set of the 960 chassis braces for me and my brother which will get installed with the front suspension upgrades I'm planning:
- Camber modded struts or TXR adjustables
- IPD LCA busings for added caster
- Koni yellow shocks (current orange ones are questionable)
- DIY strutbrace to clear the twin turbo's




With the front suspension the big xc90 brakes will also be installed for which I will need bigger wheels So in a lucky find I ran in a affordable set of revolution motorsport millenium rally wheels in 17x7.5 front and 17x8 rear



And with a tryout today for fitment and looks I'm very content and stoked for the install which will probably happen after winter!

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Old 11-13-2019, 04:01 PM   #34
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Default Front suspension fixed

Due to my annoyance with the lack of front end grip during my last trackday I decided to overhaul the front suspension of the brick a bit, more will follow, but this is what was done the last couple of weeks

Starting of with the cambermod, as commonly known here, which increased my camber to somewhere between 1.5 to 2 deg of negative camber as per my phone and the leveling app. I chose to just take the front studs out of the plates, loosen the back ones, and put a rachet strap across the strut tops to pull them together to the max that was allowed in the strut tower. After a new 10mm hole and pulling the studs back in with some chassis rings in the right size, this is what I ended up with on both sides.


I then moved on to installing the new 960 chassis braces, realizing that my lower control rubbers were shot. Luckily the brake upgrade I bought from sander came with his old LCA's with new (10y old rubbers) which were in much better condition, so I swapped those on.

I then proceeded to being annoyed while finding out my roll steer correctors made the torquing of the bolts while the car sat down on the ground, almost impossible, luckily my socket set had just enough movement in the joints to get it done, pfheew. Moving on, I also torqued into place the braces for which I had pre-dremel'd the appropriate slots, perfect on #2, good enough on the other with a chassis ring on top





Whilst under the car I also got rid of the culprit for the power steering leak, it would seem like the bend was already torn before I tightened it further. I fear that the person making the hose did not anneal the metal before bending, resulting in the failure. I was in luck however, for now the stock hose, with some gentle persuasion fit in its place. So PS is back for now.


I also got to some future goodies prepared in the form of the bijlsma EZK chipping kit


Which will be put in somewhere this weekend if I feel like it at the same time as a 3deg advance switch, which has been on the list for a while, since I took it out with the new loom install. This time it will be contained in the EZK box itself.

One thing I did not like about the kit was the use of the cheap non shock/corrosion proof sockets, as shown on the left, these are notorious at my engineering course for causing weird bugs. Not what I would like to see in my ignition controller, so the provided chip in the kit got soldered directly to the PCB and the EEPROM socket got replaced by a much higher quality machine pin socket.


Below a quick link about what I'm on about, for automotive shaky applications, I'd always go for the machined pin version, that's why they are also used for the LH2.4 EEPROM sockets:P
http://retro64.altervista.org/blog/tht-ic-sockets/
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